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Add subs + amp

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by SabrToothSqrl, Feb 16, 2017.

  1. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    So.. I'm a 90s kid when in high-school it was required (by law) to have a "system" that cost more than your car. Seriously. This was... for whatever reason the priority. I know, right?

    $1,500 Chevy? Check.
    $700 head unit? Check.
    $600 speakers? Check.
    $600 amp? Check.

    So... I want to add some bass to my S, and I've seen all the $$ systems, and the one that confusingly puts the sub on the side where the UMC goes..?

    Anyway. I have a 2013 S85, with the factory sub. "Ultra high.. yea it sounds.. good enough ish"... but doesn't rattle my neighbor's house... so..

    I want to add just an amp and a sub. More than likely a single 10 or 12" JL.

    I was thinking the NVX MVPA1 just because it's so freaking small, or I could go w/a JL Audio one as well.

    I'm also thinking I'd just line level tap some speakers to get the bass...

    has anyone done this? What's the 100% easiest way to get audio signal to the amp? From the rear speakers in the rear deck lid? From the amp up front? Does anyone have a way or factory spliter? I'd love something that plugs into my factory items, then has a "T" off them or similar...

    has anyone taken the leads from the factory sub and just fed them to the aftermarket amp?

    Where are you grounding the amp at?

    has anyone just put the subbox in the trunk, or in the recess below the trunk? how are we securing the box to the car for spirited driving?

    I love music, and need more boom in my life... especially if I'm going to keep this car and stave off my need for AP2 ;)

    Thanks
     
  2. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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  3. shadowinstallz

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    Hey, 90's kid myself. and have put in many audio systems growing up as a Mobile Electronics Installer..i put in the NVX set-up and it pounds!....i thought i wouldnt be contempt, but it definitely does the job. I just need to upgrade my factory speakers now, but thats another day...lol

    Ive looked at many different options as well, but i decided with the NVX due to the clean look and no room taken as we take many road trips and i need all the trunk space/hidden trunk as possible.

    - so to catch the signal i used the LC2i as it doesnt require to run a separate remote, it runs off the signal from speaker inputs.
    - since you have the upgraded/premium sound you would still need to run power and groudn to your new amp as the power to the factory amp is under the dash and is not sufficient enough for high output.
    - ground you can found in the trunk near the charge port, plenty.

    - you wont be disappointed with the NVX set-up, ive won my fair share of Sound-offs and can tell you this thing thumps in that little molded enclosure since it is sealed and the model S cabin is open, it allows the bass to flow more naturally. I have the bass control mounted under the screen.
     
  4. shadowinstallz

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    was never a fan of these integrated boxes with amps, never had enough power. you want it to be separate. I mounted my amp right under the nvx sub enclosure in the comparatment below. NVX has a install video which is on point on where to route and mount. only this i can suggest is buy a longer Power cable to run as the ones supplied in the kits are just enough and really tight, doesnt give you enough slack, but i made it work.
     
  5. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    Let me clarify; what is everyone tapping and where to get the speaker audio? (not the turn on).

    Can I take the AUDIO wires that run the OEM sub, and feed them to the after market amp?

    I understand I need power wires for the after market amp. Thanks!
     
  6. Zextraterrestrial

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    #6 Zextraterrestrial, Feb 16, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2017
    I had the 10" nvx and 750 amp....waaay better than the 8" stock sub....then well, 90's highschooler, yup ...upgraded to a 12" Nvx down firing and the 1200W NVX amp. sooo much better with a 12"! $180 NVX speaker probably crushes most JLs that cost well over 2X...$220 amp + I added a 1F cap when I had the 750 amp still, since well..power + I never put a cap in a car before :> Tapped F and Rear signals from the front corners so that using Dolby sounds better and has more bass than with it off. Not sure how the F I fit the box like I did, just using a piece of cardboard to make a sketchy template of the foot well - it fits soooo tight & with a grill on the speaker even - absolutely 0 tolerance on bottom, front, rear and side! (you can see I had to shave the corner a tad with a file in the bottom) I could get a measure of mine if anyone is interested. still has good storage under the second panel and left side area.
    sorry these pictures are a bit crappy ;<
    DSCN0822.JPG DSCN0823.JPG DSCN0824.JPG DSCN0829.JPG
    maybe it is time to finish my box with some paint/ carpet and take real pictures, not on an ipod..since you know I don't own a cell phone :p
     
  7. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    #7 SabrToothSqrl, Feb 16, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2017
    That is an interesting box for sure. Should make good use of space.

    Has anyone had any warranty issues with installing a sub/amp. I've read about dozens of low 12v issues. I've never had in 43,000 miles... so.. I don't want to mess that up either..

    Any photos of the audio taps? Photos of the grounding power wire?
     
  8. Zextraterrestrial

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    ..sooo, haven't told anyone this here... yet
    dumbass(me) originally wired in my amp to the other side of the pyro fuse, it had a convenient nut to use....which was fine until I was showing a friend Magic Mike and ...boom no power. also in the only rush hour traffic we have up here...after dropping off a friends Camry for service... ow

    wire directly to the battery!
    this showed up as an accident to Tesla so they towed my car 250 miles to service and replaced the whole fuse loom above the battery. I kind of knew what happened as I was hesitant wiring it the way I did, as I really should have been!
    anyway $2,500 (tow and fuse loom) covered! I was shocked and ready to pay, cash in pocket. I had many early issues so I think that was a bit of a factor to service comping me -super props to Service!

    wiring it properly is just as easy. the hardest part was changing the amp to the 1200W since the remote wires are totally different and I had to repull that through the firewall without repulling all the other wires. ..will get you a couple of better pics soon

    I did want to make a quick connect plug for the frunk so it is easier to remove power and RCAs but it isn't too bad to pull the power for service and they haven't complained for my last couple of annuals
     
  9. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    Did you wire the ground directly to the battery?
     
  10. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    looks like a small 2 pin connector goes to the sub. Can I tap that for audio in to the amp?

    Can you replace this sub with a better sub (and amp) using the factory box? I did that in my 2012 wrangler..
     
  11. shadowinstallz

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    You won't be able to catch them at the sub as these are low level inputs. Need to catch them from the front or rear regular high level speaker inputs which would then be converted in the lc2i to low level/rca outputs. That's the easiest access. YouTube video shows where to access
     
  12. shadowinstallz

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    Nice box...what's the .cu u got in there? Is that ported? Also farad caps never r ally work they actually drain the battery. Since you are running only this one amp it's not really needed but if h want to be safe u should run a deep cycle second battery truthfully
     
  13. shadowinstallz

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    Never had any issues with tesla working on the car in warranty, they actually loved it and blasted in the service center once lol
     
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  14. shadowinstallz

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    Never ground to battery. It's not clean
     
  15. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    #15 SabrToothSqrl, Feb 17, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
    You are correct that the audio going to the OEM sub box is "high level" however I planned to run it to a Hi --> low converter,or use an amp that has 'hi' in. Which, should satisfy the requirement to get audio to the sub... and it's already in the trunk vs wiring up to the dash... However it's also just one speaker wire set, so do I run a splitter then? just wire the OEM sub out from the dash to both inputs on the new amp (on the high input).

    Ok, so don't ground to the battery... so then where are people grounding the wire?

    I really think one *could*.

    1. run 8 gauge wire (as JL says to use) from battery + to amp. Ground amp with - 8 gauge wire (where?)

    Unplug OEM sub-woofer connector. Fashion a female connector (any ideas on how) or splice to then run the 2 wires to the HI level input on an amplifier - ideally w/auto turn ON

    wire amp to new Sub.

    open a refreshing beverage while stompin' in my air force ones...

    OR.... what I did in my 2012 Wrangler, was remove OEM sub, find sub that fits volume requirements, then power the aftermarket sub, IN the oem box. (space is at at huge premium in the wrangler)...

    what about this approach in the Tesla? There is already a subbox there... what if we just replace the sub and give it more GO power? That would be my ideal solution... no lost trunk space...
     
  16. Zextraterrestrial

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    Ground wired to the frame (clean metal not painted)
    I was thinking a second battery would have been the way to go.. maybe I'll do that instead, the cap is a bit 'awkward' if it needs to be removed ever.
    box is pretty close to .7cf -sealed.
    the 12 hits so much harder than the 10". I think comparing the 8" stock sub to the NVX 10" is similar as the NVX 10" to 12".
    the single 12" makes mirrors unusable if you torture it a bit
     
  17. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    How do you wire a 2nd battery into a Tesla?
     
  18. Zextraterrestrial

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    pretty sure you just run it in paralell with a battery isolator in between the 2 so you don't drain the main 12V with the secondary.
    @shadowinstallz?
     
  19. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    After measuring the lower area (basement)? In the trunk, I'm pretty sure this will fit just fine

    Pioneer UD-SW250D

    What do you guys think?

    Or just lay the JL Audio one on its back? Seems about the same size actually...
    will that sound ok vs directly behind rear seat? Trying to save space, right? I guess I could try it in the basement and always move it, if it sucks.
     
  20. SabrToothSqrl

    SabrToothSqrl Active Member

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    So, since the OEM sub where I will be tapping for audio is only 1 channel, do I have to split it to then go to 2 channel in on the amp? High level of course.

    I think I'll call crutchfield tomorrow.
     

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