You are correct that the audio going to the OEM sub box is "high level" however I planned to run it to a Hi --> low converter,or use an amp that has 'hi' in. Which, should satisfy the requirement to get audio to the sub... and it's already in the trunk vs wiring up to the dash... However it's also just one speaker wire set, so do I run a splitter then? just wire the OEM sub out from the dash to both inputs on the new amp (on the high input).
Ok, so don't ground to the battery... so then where are people grounding the wire?
I really think one *could*.
1. run 8 gauge wire (as JL says to use) from battery + to amp. Ground amp with - 8 gauge wire (where?)
Unplug OEM sub-woofer connector. Fashion a female connector (any ideas on how) or splice to then run the 2 wires to the HI level input on an amplifier - ideally w/auto turn ON
wire amp to new Sub.
open a refreshing beverage while stompin' in my air force ones...
OR.... what I did in my 2012 Wrangler, was remove OEM sub, find sub that fits volume requirements, then power the aftermarket sub, IN the oem box. (space is at at huge premium in the wrangler)...
what about this approach in the Tesla? There is already a subbox there... what if we just replace the sub and give it more GO power? That would be my ideal solution... no lost trunk space...