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Adding a hitch for a bike rack to a Model S

I've put my name on the waiting list for the TUV approved version, those videos have sold it to me showing how much the car gets moved around during the tests. It is a bit pricey, but i suppose they have put in all the investment and R and D in. Also looks like its made from Aluminium so no reaction with our bodywork.
I bet the price will come down as they start to sell some.
 
I haven't found any that were over 2000 pounds. That is why I re-engineered a model X hitch and installed it on my S. I do have a new/unused 1 and 1/4 Ecohitch that i would sell. PM me.
I'm totally interested in pictures of the modification -- I've considered doing the same, especially seeing how pricey the minimal 2000lbs hitch is. do you have the rear-facing seats reinforcement bar?
 
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I haven't compared this Model X Etrailer/Drawtite hitch to a Torklift Model S hitch rated for 2000 lbs so I don't have that answer. I can tell you I believe this Model X hitch is built heavier because of how the bumper skin support has to be modified allowing more steel to be bolted under the bumper skin and support.

@Evoforce do you have some pics of your Model X drawtite hitch install on your Model S? I'm wondering where it ends up coming out of the underside of the bumper. I'm guessing there is no way to have it hidden when not in use.
 
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@Evoforce do you have some pics of your Model X drawtite hitch install on your Model S? I'm wondering where it ends up coming out of the underside of the bumper. I'm guessing there is no way to have it hidden when not in use.
I will see if I can retrieve any when I get the chance. It comes out tight to the bottom of the bumper cover. It also sets back in where it is mostly unnoticeable. It really looks good and you are correct, it is not removable.
 
I'm totally interested in pictures of the modification -- I've considered doing the same, especially seeing how pricey the minimal 2000lbs hitch is. do you have the rear-facing seats reinforcement bar?
You remove the reinforcing bar once you install the hitch because the hitch is very Stout and makes the reinforcing bar no longer necessary.. the hitch is stronger than the reinforcing bar. just make sure you isolate the steel hitch from the aluminum body with isolaters because of possibe corrosion of dissimilar metals. Also, there is a bit of modifying to the bumper skin support. I thought I posted a bunch of pictures on this project already somewhere on the forum. Although it could be I just sent them out to an individual who had requested them.
 
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@jjvan and @AaronE Here are a couple of (finished look) pictures.
 

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My dogs need to trunk so I'd love to mount a small luggage box behind the S since it's much more aerodynamic
The cost and risk of corrosion from the echo hitch scare me a bit.
@ekendahl Corrosion is mitigated by how you mount it. I used rubber washers around bolts and used drawer padding (toolbox) cut to shape for large contact areas on hitch to car body.
 
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More photo's
 

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Terrible luck with TMC and working on this... anyway @AYCE @ekendahl @AaronE the drawer padding material is sandwiched between the hitch and the body of the car where it bolts to the car. The bolt studs have rubber or plastic washers and the bolt studs are coated with plastic tool dip or liquid electrical tape. You also want to paint the newly modified and reamed holes of the Model X Draw-Tite Hitch before mounting to the Model S.

I also corrosion isolated the bumper skin support at the bolt studs.

In the photo's several of the bumper skin support you see have it shown upside down. The newly slotted holes seen on the bumper support are slotted at the top mounting holes. Note that the lower bumper support mounting holes are cut elongated also but not out to the edge like the upper mounting holes.

The big cutout square notch on the bumper support is in the center at the bottom as labeled.
 
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@jjvan ^ you too!

Here are some scrawled notes on my portable welding table for everyone too... Hopefully they can be interpreted.

The pictures do not show finished install and only show the mock up. Make sure that you put big thick metal washers on all bolt studs and isolate all with rubber or plastic washers and isolate hitch to body as I mentioned above. Also use liquid electrical tape or plastic dip on all bolts when assembling.
 
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Grr... stupid time limit on posting just wiped out a bunch of info.

One picture shows the hitch resting on all of the bolt studs and is incorrect/misleading. It is actually not mounted on the top row but needs to drop down one row of bolt studs. Do not drill the hitch mounting holes to fit on the top bolt studs protruding from the car body. I initially tried to install it that way while engineering and had to weld up the holes in the hitch mounting plates and re-drill. You will also need to note that the bolt studs are not all spaced the same.

I think I used washers to spacer out the top of the bumper skin support at the top row of studs between the body and the skin support to clear the hitch assembly underneath. I believe I spaced it out close to the thickness of the hitch mounting pad.

I don't know if I have final assembly photos or not because I haven't located them. It has been quite some time since I did this mod and don't want to pull the skin to look.
 
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It is still rock solid because of the steel that you had to notch it for and it still provides for a little crush factor before hitting the very solid mass of the hitch if involved in an accident. The bumper skin support is very solid when bolted. This setup is very good. I hauled a 7,000 pound cargo trailer 2,500 miles across the US with this. @jjvan
 
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