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Adding partial tint to top of windshield? Reasonable idea or no?

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Actually, a bit higher, but yes. It tamps down the glare from up top, reflects most of the heat away. It works and looks better than the springy mesh thing Tesla provides, is barely noticeable while driving (sits MUCH higher than say, a Model S ceiling line), and can't be seen from the outside.
 

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Actually, a bit higher, but yes. It tamps down the glare from up top, reflects most of the heat away. It works and looks better than the springy mesh thing Tesla provides, is barely noticeable while driving (sits MUCH higher than say, a Model S ceiling line), and can't be seen from the outside.

Yeah I am either thinking of that, a really good heat tint in a strip or doing the entire windshield light. I'm in FL so the heat will be something to combat. Does the Tesla factory tint on the rear windows have any heat resistance to it?
 
Yeah I am either thinking of that, a really good heat tint in a strip or doing the entire windshield light. I'm in FL so the heat will be something to combat. Does the Tesla factory tint on the rear windows have any heat resistance to it?

Here in TX all of the tint the car comes with is ineffective. We covered all glass with ceramic, legal limit up front, very dark in back. Our summer sun is brutal.
 
And for those considering between Photosync and 3M Crystalline, here is our test. We utilize EDTM's Spectrum Analyzer, which breaks down IR (infrared radiation = which is essentially heat) between two wavelengths:

3M Crystalline 70 blocks out:

97% of infrared radiation at 900-1000nm
But, the infrared radiation rejection drops down significantly to 80% at 1700nm

cr 70.jpg



Spectra PhotoSync 75%, rejects 96% of Infrared Radiation between 900-1000nm
And at 1700nm still blocks out 94% of IR. The performance of PhotoSync is far better than 3M Crystalline at the 1700nm, which is where it really matters.


sph 75.jpg


The Spectrum Analyzer uses its own optics to produce accurate IR performance data and runs on NFRC 300 specs. This is as accurate of a measuring tool as it gets.
 
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And for those considering between Photosync and 3M Crystalline, here is our test. We utilize EDTM's Spectrum Analyzer, which breaks down IR (infrared radiation = which is essentially heat) between two wavelengths:

3M Crystalline 70 blocks out:

97% of infrared radiation at 900-1000nm
But, the infrared radiation rejection drops down significantly to 80% at 1700nm

View attachment 303184


Spectra PhotoSync 75%, rejects 96% of Infrared Radiation between 900-1000nm
And at 1700nm still blocks out 94% of IR. The performance of PhotoSync is far better than 3M Crystalline at the 1700nm, which is where it really matters.


View attachment 303185

The Spectrum Analyzer uses its own optics to produce accurate IR performance data and runs on NFRC 300 specs. This is as accurate of a measuring tool as it gets.

Very nice comparison. Quick question for you. No one in my area it turns out has or uses PhotoSync, so should I order some and bring it or use what they have? So far the two people and I know and trust use Johnson IR Film or Xpel new film. Thoughts/Recommendation?
 
For the people who don't have Photosync or anything like that locally, I found a video of the XPEL XR being compared to other films. Skip to like 11 mins. yes the video is kind of cheesy but the short version is the guy is trying to make the van he works out of cooler. Looks like the XPEL XR rejects a lot of heat.

 
I think this thread got a bit derailed from OP. OP wanted to block light not heat and none of the clear (70/75%) tint film would block much light. I have PhotoSync 75 on my windshield and I can't tell the difference between naked and with 75 as far as light goes. In fact I can't even tell the film is there. The cabin is still as bright as before during the day.

But before we got the 1 piece PhotoSync windshield tint, I asked a few tint shops about a windshield tint for the MX. Most of them offers either a 2 piece solution. With a dark piece on top and clear piece at the bottom. One other place offers a vinyl cover on the entire top of the car up to the top of the windshield. It will look black from the outside and dark tint from the inside. But our problem was with heat and not light, so we went with PhotoSync.
 
Very nice comparison. Quick question for you. No one in my area it turns out has or uses PhotoSync, so should I order some and bring it or use what they have? So far the two people and I know and trust use Johnson IR Film or Xpel new film. Thoughts/Recommendation?

Johnson's films are considered on the lower tier of window film manufacturers. They are an ok product manufacturer. As for Xpel, they don't make the film themselves. They are just reboxing it from Asia. And many companies in China and Taiwan market 98% - 99% IRR, but it's important to look at the wavelength being measured. Just like in my post above with 3M Crystalline, you can see that performance of the tint drops significantly when measuring medium wavelengths. And this is with a known company like 3M.
 
Johnson's films are considered on the lower tier of window film manufacturers. They are an ok product manufacturer. As for Xpel, they don't make the film themselves. They are just reboxing it from Asia. And many companies in China and Taiwan market 98% - 99% IRR, but it's important to look at the wavelength being measured. Just like in my post above with 3M Crystalline, you can see that performance of the tint drops significantly when measuring medium wavelengths. And this is with a known company like 3M.

So what would be your recommendation? Find a supplier and buy a roll of film for someone else to put on or go with whatever is here? For reference I am in the Jacksonville Florida area.
 
I think this thread got a bit derailed from OP. OP wanted to block light not heat and none of the clear (70/75%) tint film would block much light. I have PhotoSync 75 on my windshield and I can't tell the difference between naked and with 75 as far as light goes. In fact I can't even tell the film is there. The cabin is still as bright as before during the day.

True. If it's truly light and not heat that is OP's issue, then will likely need some real tint. But if looking for the most stealthy way to cut down on heat, OP should take a look at Llumar's Air series (available in 80 and 90). While technically illegal of course, these are virtually clear and undetectable. Let's virtually all of the light in, but does cut down on the glare, UV rays and heat a bit. I have it and nobody would ever suspect my windshield was "tinted".

Air Clear Window Tint Series | LLumar
 
I think this thread got a bit derailed from OP. OP wanted to block light not heat and none of the clear (70/75%) tint film would block much light. I have PhotoSync 75 on my windshield and I can't tell the difference between naked and with 75 as far as light goes. In fact I can't even tell the film is there. The cabin is still as bright as before during the day.

But before we got the 1 piece PhotoSync windshield tint, I asked a few tint shops about a windshield tint for the MX. Most of them offers either a 2 piece solution. With a dark piece on top and clear piece at the bottom. One other place offers a vinyl cover on the entire top of the car up to the top of the windshield. It will look black from the outside and dark tint from the inside. But our problem was with heat and not light, so we went with PhotoSync.

Ha thanks! I’m the OP. The discussion is really helpful though. I am getting tint installed just on the top this week... but it has me thinking about heat rejection on the other windows.

Johnson's films are considered on the lower tier of window film manufacturers. They are an ok product manufacturer. As for Xpel, they don't make the film themselves. They are just reboxing it from Asia. And many companies in China and Taiwan market 98% - 99% IRR, but it's important to look at the wavelength being measured. Just like in my post above with 3M Crystalline, you can see that performance of the tint drops significantly when measuring medium wavelengths. And this is with a known company like 3M.

Good to know. Any thoughts on Madico Wincos? In terms of price to performance the company installing my tint is recommending that film for me. Thank you!
 
Ha thanks! I’m the OP. The discussion is really helpful though. I am getting tint installed just on the top this week... but it has me thinking about heat rejection on the other windows.



Good to know. Any thoughts on Madico Wincos? In terms of price to performance the company installing my tint is recommending that film for me. Thank you!


I don’t mean offense to Premier but, it seems like anytime anyone asks about any product other than what they use it’s sub par. I’ve asked several times for recommendations and have received none. I think I’ll just use other reviews.
 
I had crystalline on the S and now have photosync on the X... photosync is a great tint however comes at a price ...my shop also does Winco on a lot of Tesla’s .. and for the price ( several hundred dollars) less than photosync it’s a great option .... I’m in SoCal and want good protection which is why I went with photosync ..but u can’t go wrong with Winco...crystalline in my opinion looks horrible color-wise
 
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