Launch it hard a couple of times and listen for the front drive shaft rattle. Mines been done twice since new. There was a new update on this last year.
Otherwise, I think great choice, the 75 is fine if ultimate range not an issue.👍
huh, my 85D is fine and I don't baby it. No rattles, no creaks. All trim is fine except for some small bubbling of the alcantara on the inside b-pillers. Honestly, my interior looks like the day I bought it at 28k miles now at 105k miles. And I wiped it down and dressed it maybe 6 times...maybe, probably less.As a former owner of two 2015 Model S’s I would highly recommend a new Model 3 or Y over a used S of those vintages. We had a 85D that my wife drove and a P90D that was my primary car. I traded the P90D in for a 2022 Model Y Performance last June. I purchased the P90D new in Nov. 2015 and it had only 27,000 miles on it.
You seem most concerned about the battery, which you should be, but there are many other potential issues. I babied my P90D. It was garaged every night and had a cover on it at my office whenever possible. But it was not aging well. The interior trim was delaminating on 3 of the door panels and the headliner. Two of the door panels were on the rear doors and those seats were used maybe 20 times in the whole time we had it. It developed numerous rattles and the door handles were starting to breakdown one by one. My next big worry was the air shocks going out. In the last 2 years it was in the shop 3-4 times a year for out of warranty repairs (battery heater, door handles, 12v batteries, etc).
I did the MCU2 upgrade out of necessity and would consider that to be a requirement. It made such a difference. The last repair we made was replacing the front drive unit about 3 months before we traded it in. It was covered under the 8 year warranty but it took 2 months to get the parts.
I loved the P90D but the MYP is a much better car in so many ways. The biggest is the charging speed and range, of course, but also build quality and more current tech.
The US and European (EU) rated mile values are different, and the terms Tesla used, at least back in the 2016-2017 era were different. US was rated and ideal for the two settings, Europe I believe was rated and typical, by my memory on the exact European terms is a bit foggy (haven't had to look it up for a couple years). The US rated range is based upon an EPA methodology. In Europe it's based upon and NEDC cycle, which was considered to we wildly optimistic, to the point that most in Europe refer to the value known as typical as the more realistic. That's the exact opposite where in the US, the rated number is more representative (still optimistic for many) where the Ideal value is a totally worthless, unrealistic, overly optimistic value.Quick observations based on the photos:
1. That is a fair amount of yellowing around the screen. It can sometimes be corrected (or made better) with the UV light treatment.
2. I'd be interested in seeing what the alert is (red triangle). Could be anything from a low keyfob battery, bad USB thumb drive unable to record video, to a failing 12v or something else more serious. Errors can be viewed by clicking on the triangle or by looking in the instrument cluster.
3. 199 miles @ 90% seems low to me. In the US, the 75D is rated for 259 miles new which would work out to more than 20% degradation(225 miles @ 100%). I admittedly don't know if the overseas range figures are different.
As long as the range works for you and the numbers are good, I am sure the car will be a good fit.
With that in mind, what do you think the battery degradation is really at?The US and European (EU) rated mile values are different, and the terms Tesla used, at least back in the 2016-2017 era were different. US was rated and ideal for the two settings, Europe I believe was rated and typical, by my memory on the exact European terms is a bit foggy (haven't had to look it up for a couple years). The US rated range is based upon an EPA methodology. In Europe it's based upon and NEDC cycle, which was considered to we wildly optimistic, to the point that most in Europe refer to the value known as typical as the more realistic. That's the exact opposite where in the US, the rated number is more representative (still optimistic for many) where the Ideal value is a totally worthless, unrealistic, overly optimistic value.
As for the red triangle, that can also be something as simple as having the car plugged in and putting your foot on the brake and trying to put the car into Drive or Reverse.
As it appears it has been not driven some time then I would not be such concerned about the degradation. It is certainly lower than usual but I can assure that with your continuous use and everyday drive you will woken up the correct BMS measurement and the car will get back to the real available mails. I can give my example, second owner of 2016 70D and on picking up it four years ago from third party dealer shop it had 207 miles on 100%. I did accepted this and drove home, 1000miles from the shop on the first day of ownership. To my surprise after the two days trip, I had to take ferry to get to home, it stared to get back actual mileage. So by this regular driving the car did got back approximately 18 miles on 100% and this has been constant since then. Maybe now by this winter, which has been guite cold and long, I see that the full amount is stating to get some degradation and the full amount has got to about 219 miles. Also have not done such long distance drive since. Around 71k miles on the clock…With that in mind, what do you think the battery degradation is really at?
Thank you for this response, I actually went ahead and bought the car today, and seeing the first post mention 15% degradation I was feeling quite bad about it. The car was up for around 5k less than anything else and I have been fairly paranoid awaiting a bad surprise. I could find no fault with the car itself and its in really nice condition and enjoyed the drive home.As it appears it has been not driven some time then I would not be such concerned about the degradation. It is certainly lower than usual but I can assure that with your continuous use and everyday drive you will woken up the correct BMS measurement and the car will get back to the real available mails. I can give my example, second owner of 2016 70D and on picking up it four years ago from third party dealer shop it had 207 miles on 100%. I did accepted this and drove home, 1000miles from the shop on the first day of ownership. To my surprise after the two days trip, I had to take ferry to get to home, it stared to get back actual mileage. So by this regular driving the car did got back approximately 18 miles on 100% and this has been constant since then. Maybe now by this winter, which has been guite cold and long, I see that the full amount is stating to get some degradation and the full amount has got to about 219 miles. Also have not done such long distance drive since. Around 71k miles on the clock…
Yours selected car does look quite nice, very low mileage and nice colour as well. Good luck on the purchase and happy miles!
Thank you!Congrats.
Now fix the screen and do the CCS retrofit. and then just drive and enjoy this great car.
Don't worry about degradation. After a few months you'll end up with the same conclusion than all of us... your car probably just has the average fleet degradation! You can use the Tessie app for that, works quite well.
If able try to return this additional adapter that you purchased. You will get that same one with the CCS retrofit from Tesla and there is nothing to do with the separate one (except if you loos one).The car is off to Tesla tomorrow to get the screen repair and general diagnostic. The CCS adapter should arrive later this week so i'll have to schedule an appointment to get that done soon as well.
Thank you for the detail information, I agree that typical is much closer to reality and it was mainly to understand how to work out my degradation but @PCMc answered that for me.If able try to return this additional adapter that you purchased. You will get that same one with the CCS retrofit from Tesla and there is nothing to do with the separate one (except if you loos one).
I have used Typical settings on Energy Display which is more realistic and might be similar to the Rated settings in States.
And do not underestimate that 10A one phase charging option that you currently have. It’s all to your individual acceptance, depending on what can be used from your residential distribution box. I was able to install Tesla HPWC (HighPowerWallConnector) and needed to adjust the power rating to 8A (so 5,5 kW) as this is on my existing three phase (max 16A) setup. There is nothing wrong with the single phase option, I can use the same on my workplace and they have adjusted that to 13A (so 3,0 kW). You only need to get used to it, it will take some time but you have that always available.
Here is one explanation what can be achieved on your domestic setup. I do believe that the same is applied in UK, that schuko connector is the regular EU type single phase plug/connector. According to your data you have 2,3kW power on your setup:
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