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Advice on buying a used high mileage P90D

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Hold onnnnn. So this is a P90DL with the underlined badge, which I believe means this had ludicrous mode from the factory. I have heard of Tesla stripping EAP, FSD, FUSC after purchase but have never heard them stripping Ludicrous mode. Is this something they have been doing lately? That would be terrible considering the price of that option...

Also, I would be getting this from a 3rd party dealer that purchased directly from the first owner and never initiated a transfer (as far as Tesla is concerned) to a new owner. Should I be worried about losing a lot of options? Because I kind of feel like the price I am paying is with options included...
Yeah you need to get the car transferred. If seems like the dealership doesn't deal with EV cars and has no clue what they are doing. I am 50/50 after recommending it now because what they should have done is transferred the EV to the dealer and then the dealer transfers it to you. I was under the impression that Tesla was the dealer and they did all their checkups. Someone could have just got a badge and put it on there as well.

Tesla does not take away options unless its free supercharge,
 
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Yeah you need to get the car transferred. If seems like the dealership doesn't deal with EV cars and has no clue what they are doing. I am 50/50 after recommending it now because what they should have done is transferred the EV to the dealer and then the dealer transfers it to you. I was under the impression that Tesla was the dealer and they did all their checkups. Someone could have just got a badge and put it on there as well.

Tesla does not take away options.
I agree with this post, while i was shopping for my tesla, the dealership said the car i was driving was a performance car. So when i went to the settings of the car menu, it said it was a model s 60….. scumbags i swear. When i informed them, they said that someone must have done that and sold it to them like that. So you are telling me a whole dealership felll for this??? Either way i walked right out of there.
 
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Ok let me clarify, sorry I wasn’t super clear. So the 3rd party dealership is the owner of this car now. What I meant in terms of “transfer” is that they did not claim ownership of the car via the Tesla app (so the dealer doesn’t have access to the car in the Tesla app). With that being said, the car has the underlined P90D in all of the menu screens as well so that should be pretty concrete it’s a P90D correct?
 
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Ok let me clarify, sorry I wasn’t super clear. So the 3rd party dealership is the owner of this car now. What I meant in terms of “transfer” is that they did not claim ownership of the car via the Tesla app (so the dealer doesn’t have access to the car in the Tesla app). With that being said, the car has the underlined P90D in all of the menu screens as well so that should be pretty concrete it’s a P90D correct?
If thats the case, i think you should be good.
 
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Just make sure you check eve
Ok let me clarify, sorry I wasn’t super clear. So the 3rd party dealership is the owner of this car now. What I meant in terms of “transfer” is that they did not claim ownership of the car via the Tesla app (so the dealer doesn’t have access to the car in the Tesla app). With that being said, the car has the underlined P90D in all of the menu screens as well so that should be pretty concrete it’s a P90D correct?
You're thinking too hard, just get the car. No one can hack the car so it displays something else lol. But since its a 3rd party just make sure they know how to look over EV cars because they are very different than ICE. For example as I said earlier that 125k mileage may suggest that you many finally need that 2nd set of brakes and such.
 
Just make sure you check eve

You're thinking too hard, just get the car. No one can hack the car so it displays something else lol. But since its a 3rd party just make sure they know how to look over EV cars because they are very different than ICE. For example as I said earlier that 125k mileage may suggest that you many finally need that 2nd set of brakes and such.
Yeah, my deal with the dealership is that I will buy the car pending an inspection and they are completely fine with that. I would like to take it to Tesla for an inspection, but unsure if Tesla would be ok with that. However, there are lots of 3rd party reputable EV service centers in the country I am buying from, the Netherlands. So I think it should turn out ok. I think in this case everything might transfer, even free unlimited SC :D
 
I have seen one member here who found later, after purchase that from outside pristine car turned out to be one with front end collision. And quite frustrating situation for the buyer, it was also in Netherlands... Just can’t find this thread now.
 
I have seen one member here who found later, after purchase that from outside pristine car turned out to be one with front end collision. And quite frustrating situation for the buyer, it was also in Netherlands... Just can’t find this thread now.
I ran the VIN online on something similar to carfax here in Europe and it came back clean, with no accidents. So I believe it should be fine. I also checked with Tesla and they ran the VIN and confirmed the 8 year warranty is still valid (which I think would not be the case if there was an accident, but I can not say for sure).
 
It has happened before. See this thread:


You should be better off getting it from a private party vs. buying it from Tesla, assuming Tesla did not take the car as a trade in and then send it through an auction. Features tend to disappear when Tesla gets a hold of the cars, even briefly. That said, I got mine back after showing them an email from the sales advisor comfirming that it had ludicrous mode.

The silly thing with ludicrous mode on the P85D and P90D is that it was available for a short period of time as a retrofit where a few parts were replaced (fuse, HV contactors, some cabling) so it is a hardware change as much as software. Tesla would then artificially cripple the cars via software and remove the mode, but the hardware would still be in place. Why would the hardware be there if it was not purchased? This expereience really soured me to Tesla as a company just a couple months after purchase, and I am now incredibly cautious when dealing with the company as a result.
 
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my drive train is under warranty still and the battery wont fail, 2012-2013 models have gone to 300k without issues. #HatersGunnaHate
recently bought my wife, a long time Lexus owner, a 2015 70D with 32K miles....only issue was the driver's door handle ($435 paid by seller) Beautiful extremely clean car.
Checked with Glendale, AZ Tesla dealership...was informed that the car's drive train and battery is covered under warranty for 1 million miles or
eight years.
So much fun to drive that I'm looking for a clean used P90d for myself.
 
Just make sure you check eve

You're thinking too hard, just get the car. No one can hack the car so it displays something else lol. But since its a 3rd party just make sure they know how to look over EV cars because they are very different than ICE. For example as I said earlier that 125k mileage may suggest that you many finally need that 2nd set of brakes and such.
That’s actually not true, it’s been done by a user on here.

 
Brand new teslas are extremely expensive right now too. Even though new teslas are absolute s_hit. No radar, no buttons, no climate vents, no steering wheel. Go buy a non-tesla car. Save yourself from the retardation of elon musk. I should have known when elon married that communist whore.
Brother, that´s not how You label women. That´s a straight insult and was never normal not even in Your"good ol" times. Old man.
 
I see no issue buying a used higher mileage S overall - especially if you grab an extended warranty to cover some of the unknowns. I much prefer the "outdated" interior of the 16-21 S vs the new one, it's a much more comfortable car than the 3/Y, and it looks better.

The real issue is buying any used car right now. Prices are super elevated. So if you decide next year that you want something else you're almost guaranteed to take a huge loss. That's the only reason I'd be inclined to buy new right now.

The one thing I would do is - take it somewhere to at least have a PPI done on the suspension, brakes, and other basics. They may not be able to tell you much about the battery pack, but getting a viewpoint of how well everything else was maintained can help you get a feel for the life the car has lived, and what you might be looking at for repairs in the near future.
 
MCU2 upgrade is a waste of money. You won't get all of the features the newer cars have AND you lose FM radio. Just save your $1500 and buy an iPad. MCU2 is still slow and buggy, I wouldn't even pay $1k for it.

While I'm here, for all the P90D folks, how many actual miles are you getting on a full charge?
 
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