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Advice on getting 2022 M3LR vs M3SR

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If I’m not mistaken Model 3 SR has one advantage. An LFP battery. No degradation and you can charge to 100% routinely and get full use of the battery.

I think that is not entirely true -- every battery degrades with age (calender aging) and charge cycles (cyclic aging). LFPs are rated for much higher number of charge cycles than NCS batteries (like 3000-5000 vs 1500 cycles for NCA), but I think calender aging (i.e, how much a battery degrades over time) may not be too different.

I recall seeing a post from someone who charged their LFP to 100% for 61 days (everyday since two months of ownership) and 6000km total mileage. They were now consistently seeing a 2% less range on full charge. Of course, I dont know all details so take it with a pinch of salt. But it does make sense with the advice (drawn from scientifc papers on battwries) that dont keep you battery in a high SOC (state of charge) for a long time.

The "battery" related subforum has a lot of amazing info if you want to look at it. Treasure trove of info.
 
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Hello everyone,

Thank you for all of your great comments. I finally made put on an order for M3 Rear-wheel drive. Unfortunately, I ordered it after 2 price hikes :(

I, currently, do not have MYLR, and am waiting for the end of year delivery. I hope we will get the M3 RW in August or July as we plan to sell the mini-van (8yrs old but only 52k).
 
Now considering getting another 2021 used MR to replace our low mileage petrol second car and feeling that SR is more than enough range for a second car. A used LR is a lot more expensive.

If the LFP battery had been available in 2021 I'd have been tempted just to get the LFP SR model because it sounds like it may degrade much more slowly - to early to tell yet though. I certainly don't use the extra acceleration of the LR, it's way faster than needed for daily driving.
For a used 2021, note that there were a small number of LFP battery SR+ late in the 2021 model year. These showed up as inventory available to those waiting for ordered SR+ cars. These 2021 reportedly had a rated range of 253 miles (versus 262 miles for the 2021 with LNCA and 272 miles for the 2022 with LFP).
 
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Hi Paul,

Thanks for your feedback. Did you get a good real life range on the 2019 SR+ (like close to what they claimed)?
How was the resell value on SR+?
I can't comment on the range, as I can't remember, but I believe 100% charge was ~350 KM I believe. I don't think I got close to it, winter took a big hit.

As far as re-sale, I made money on the sale. Meaning I sold for more than I paid in 2019. I sold it in December 2021.

Good luck!!
 
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You made the right choice. If you are getting a MYLR there is really not much need to have 2 LR cars. I've had an SR+ for just over a year now as my only car and still haven't taken a trip where I needed more than one charge along the way. As for the battery type, I have the older one and the range has dropped on it but on my trip just this weekend my power usage was below the spec so I actually got better than stated range. Basically it is a wash. I was cruising at around 70 the whole time until I got into NYC where you slow down. I also have another reason I'm not likely to use the car on a long trip, my son is a commercial pilot for a major airline and I get to fly for free. Why drive?

And now, all that said, I'm heading to the SC since I haven't plugged in since this trip. I still don't have my wall charger installed.
 
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Wow what a great response to your question - members gave both short answers and detailed reviews - the marketing Tesla uses entices buyers to spend as much as they can on a new car - online you start w basic model and then middle and finally “race car” for mom and dad and grandpas like me 🚗 of course picking you favorite color might add to the price - so my advise is to buy the least expensive M3 like I did - (expected 10-22). Ps I gave in an added the 19 inch wheels - having owned 30 cars I could not put up w the M3 hubcaps - that are really ugly for such a nice car - I know they get better range….
 
Wow what a great response to your question - members gave both short answers and detailed reviews - the marketing Tesla uses entices buyers to spend as much as they can on a new car - online you start w basic model and then middle and finally “race car” for mom and dad and grandpas like me 🚗 of course picking you favorite color might add to the price - so my advise is to buy the least expensive M3 like I did - (expected 10-22). Ps I gave in an added the 19 inch wheels - having owned 30 cars I could not put up w the M3 hubcaps - that are really ugly for such a nice car - I know they get better range….
I’ve never in my life said to myself after buying a car, shoot, I should have got the smaller battery, the slower car, cheaper interior. But I have a few times wished I bought a feature I didn’t get and later traded it to get that feature I wanted.

With Tesla I always go for maximum range. I don’t go for max performance though because that usually cost range.

With the right tires, 19” can be as efficient as the 18” with Aero covers. Not with the OEM 19” tires though.
 
I find this fuzzy (and this is often used in comparing LR and RWD): comparison of full LFP vs 80% NCA battery and calling them similar range. It only matters if you are driving 250-260 miles daily, which is a much less common use-case.

For regular commutes (say 50miles or even 100 miles), both cars are okay. So effectively you just need a car that has much lesser range for daily commute (and nightly home charge). So there is no point to even charge the LFP battery to full every night even if it is okay to do -- you are just wasting electricity IMO.

The long range matters when you are doing a road trip, and at that time charging the NCA battery to 100% is totally fine for the 80 miles of more range!

For the OP, the RWD should work just fine especially since they will likely used the spacious MYLR for family/road trips.
well reasoned
 
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