To the audio experts out there, I've been holding back on doing any custom audio work like adding another larger sub and amp primarily due to unknowns to me of the affects on their 12V deep cycle battery.
We all know that when the 12V battery goes, the car shuts down. This is the major reason why I've been holding off. I've done custom systems (nothing complicated, basic [amp+speakers]+headunit+[cap+amp+subs]) on ICE cars before without worry. But I've used capacitors to protect those 12V battery for the sub amp. I know A&E's does audio upgrades, and Reus audio does audio upgrades, and theres system's like NVX's BOOST for added amp+sub. If I recall Dr Taras' MS was done by A&E's (I think) and I think they added a cap. Can't recall. So I know knowledge is out there now about this....
Basically, I want to know how powerful of an amp we can use while staying 'safe' and not causing a big drain on the 12V battery. Clearly I am going to use a class D amp. but can something like JL Audio HD1200.1 safely be used without a cap? or should a cap be used and is that ok with the 12V deep cycle battery? [and if so, what caps to use] That HD1200.1 looks pretty sweet, but it's 1000W RMS and I think requires 100amp fuse. that seems rather large to me to use without a cap, especially if the MS is sensitive to 12V issues, hence my hesitation to 'experiment' without getting advice from the real pro's that know what they are doign w\ regards to aftermarket audio on EVs, specifically w\ the MS.
The other question I have is with regards to the line out converter. I have the upgraded sound studio package. I know that I need to use something like Audio Control LC2i 2-channel line output converter and hook that up to the car's sound studio amp. The question I have is which line out's did you use? speakers or sub out? and did you split the out so that the speakers(orsub) still works? (does splitting the output affect quality on the factory speaker?). fyi I plan on keeping the stock sub and just complimenting it with a larger one, hence the need to still use the existing sub line out.
We all know that when the 12V battery goes, the car shuts down. This is the major reason why I've been holding off. I've done custom systems (nothing complicated, basic [amp+speakers]+headunit+[cap+amp+subs]) on ICE cars before without worry. But I've used capacitors to protect those 12V battery for the sub amp. I know A&E's does audio upgrades, and Reus audio does audio upgrades, and theres system's like NVX's BOOST for added amp+sub. If I recall Dr Taras' MS was done by A&E's (I think) and I think they added a cap. Can't recall. So I know knowledge is out there now about this....
Basically, I want to know how powerful of an amp we can use while staying 'safe' and not causing a big drain on the 12V battery. Clearly I am going to use a class D amp. but can something like JL Audio HD1200.1 safely be used without a cap? or should a cap be used and is that ok with the 12V deep cycle battery? [and if so, what caps to use] That HD1200.1 looks pretty sweet, but it's 1000W RMS and I think requires 100amp fuse. that seems rather large to me to use without a cap, especially if the MS is sensitive to 12V issues, hence my hesitation to 'experiment' without getting advice from the real pro's that know what they are doign w\ regards to aftermarket audio on EVs, specifically w\ the MS.
The other question I have is with regards to the line out converter. I have the upgraded sound studio package. I know that I need to use something like Audio Control LC2i 2-channel line output converter and hook that up to the car's sound studio amp. The question I have is which line out's did you use? speakers or sub out? and did you split the out so that the speakers(orsub) still works? (does splitting the output affect quality on the factory speaker?). fyi I plan on keeping the stock sub and just complimenting it with a larger one, hence the need to still use the existing sub line out.