I like my aero covers better than the rims themselves. I just colored mine.
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Afraid of loosing Aero efficiency vs Cool looking Wheels?
- Thread starter mswlogo
- Start date
SleeperService
Member
Those do look good. Better than some folks wheel choices. My Aero covers were already color coordinated from the factory. Because my car was midnight silver
But it just wasn’t enough. But I’ll still be running Aeros in winter. So it will be nice to have a fresh look for a change of season.
This thread is very interesting @mswlogo. My 3 is an AWD (non performance) and I bought it with the 19" wheels. I later bought a set of 18" wheels from Tesla with the snow tires. Like you I was expecting a big difference in efficiency but the difference was very small.
I think that if I had it to do over again, I might just buy an extra set of 19" wheels and mount snows on them. For me the 19" are much better looking.
I think that if I had it to do over again, I might just buy an extra set of 19" wheels and mount snows on them. For me the 19" are much better looking.
Glamisduner
Active Member
I went from 240 Wh/M to 300 changing from MXM 18s to PS4S 19s and lighter wheels. Weight is the same between the two over all. 19s are also 1/2 inch wide.
This is with covers off the aeros.
Tires make a huge difference. However I quite like the better performance. Do the P7+ handle as well as the mxm4?
This is with covers off the aeros.
Tires make a huge difference. However I quite like the better performance. Do the P7+ handle as well as the mxm4?
P-Lo801
Member
Yes, i'm wondering the same. I am upgrading to 19s from my aeros as well, and i'm trying to decide between Vredestein Quatrac 5, these Pirellies, and the Continental PureContact LS at a distant third.
I don't need performance oriented tires, but I don't want them to peel out when i'm in the mood for the occasional spirited driving. I'm actually pretty impressed by the MXM4 in that I can launch from a complete stop without hearing a screech.
Glamisduner
Active Member
Yes with mxm4 your not traction limited on a good day, and the car still feels pretty good in the rain. Although You can get traction control to kick in pretty easy in the rain on a turn. The PS4S should reduce braking distance, but I'm not running any tests. The wider 19's do feel a bit more planted (could be offset or lower sidewall, maybe the extra 1/2" in width), and the PS4S track extremely well in the rain, it's a noticeable difference in the seat of the pants feeling over my MXM4s. The gains seem to cost efficiency though, not sure if it's worth it or not, but I had to try it once. I'll probably go through several sets of tires so who knows what I will try next...
Sorry, been out of pocket for a few days.
I used the same wrap as the car. Only took my 5min per wheel cover.
That’s a good question. I didn’t see any head to head comparison between P7+ and Primacy. But I’ve certainly read many reviews on both. If I had to guess for the same size tire P7+ might do ever slightly less on some tests like wet traction. But keep in mind the Primacy is not the best wet traction tire in its class either. Nor would I want to run either tire in even an inch of snow. I run dedicated snows in winter. So I don’t care. People that try to skimp by on no snow tires driving in snow probably should look elsewhere. But a better year round tire that includes snow probably won’t be quiet or efficient.
There are many parameters and tradeoffs with each tire. You have to pick what is important to you. To find this tire I went through every tire on TireRack that was 19” compatible and looked for the one with quietest rating ignoring all other parameters.
What I get a kick out of on so many tire tests is the range between the best and worst is small. Like braking, the best of 20 tires, might be say 100 ft and the worst 105 ft. And the tire I might be interested in might be 3rd at 101 ft. And the worst tire is half the price of the best and you could afford fresher rubber using the cheapest tire, and on average perform better over time.
What I have noticed though is the parameter that gives a strong indicator of how it will fair in many tests is the thread life indicator. Oddly enough the quieter tires, so happen to have higher treadlife, lower rolling resistance, but worse wet handling. Makes sense except for the noise. I’d expect a softer tire to be quieter. Maybe because it’s more coupled to the earth it transmits more noise into the cabin. No idea.
Lots of folks know this as well, and for many, especially on sports cars, nothing matters but grip at all costs. And they would never touch a tire with a tread wear rating of 700 (P7+) nor would they touch one with 500 (Primacy). They want below 300 (4SPS).
But the 19” vs 18” automatically improves some handling characteristics. And like I was saying I don’t care if my tire cane in 3rd amongst a bunch of very good tires in the wet traction test. But the most important to me was noise. Efficiency was a free bonus.
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FarmerDave
Member
I too bought the ‘stealth performance’ version, and I regret that choice. At the time it cost an extra five grand (no longer) for the bigger wheels and low profile tires. I thought that the lowered suspension and low profile tires would be less than optimal in snowy conditions, so I didn't tick that box and kept my five grand.
I’ve since learned that:
- No Track Mode for me
- No Performance top speed for me
- My car description on the touchscreen is ‘Long Range Dual Motor’
- My car’s VIN does not have the Performance code
My Stealth has Track mode, It shows the red line under Dual Motor on the car badge, the UI and the phone. I believe it actually does have the performance top speed, but I’m not about to test it to find out. Not sure if Performance with wheels is a different VIN. But I don’t care and prefer not get a hit on insurance. Insurance could be an issue if ever needed replacement value.
Glamisduner
Active Member
I don't think you got the stealth performance version of the car.
My Stealth (P3D-) has track mode, has same performance top speed, Shows Performance in the touchscreen.
I'll beat you on that: Vinyl wrap (on the spokes) _and_ paint (well, plast-dip):
Either that or he never got the option installed which there have been a couple reports on.
It was still $10,000.00 extra but you had the option to take a $5k refund in exchange for losing free super charging.
SleeperService
Member
I'll corroborate everyone that already said above: I've got a "Stealth" and I've got Track Mode, performance top speed (untested, but it was in the release notes for an update I got a month or so back...), and the red underline in all the software. As to #4, there is no differentiation in the VIN between the DMP cars and the DM cars [AFAIK]. So if you truly purchased a Stealth P-car, and you have none of those things (especially the red-underline, because that indicates the P-software that unlocks the acceleration performance you paid for), then you need to not pass Go, not collect $200, and proceed directly to your Tesla Service Center with your purchase agreement and have them get that corrected. There is a very big felt difference between ~4.1x 0-60 and 3.1x 0-60 performance. One of the very first things I did when I received my car was to measure the 0-60 performance since there are no visual indicators (other than the red underline in the software) that differentiate the DM from the DMP. It's not like you can pop the hood and say "yep, that's the 6.2 L supercharged V8, not the 5.3 L NA V8."
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