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Aftermarker Sound Upgrade of 3 Front 4" speakers
- Thread starter smagicmans
- Start date
Thanks for sharing your results! I have 5 Audible Physics NZ3's I've accumulated over the years and I was planning on trying out. Maybe I'll try the D2004's with them, and I could later try out the 10F-4424's if I feel the need to compare the NZ3's to something.
The AP NZ3's are great little full-range drivers, but they're not cheap
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Audible Physics NZ3 (Pair)
Audible Physics NZ3 Here is the latest revision of the beloved NZ3. It took many years to improve upon what the NZ3 AlBe offered and the results were improvement in all frequencies across the board. NZ3 91mm Outside Diameter 73.1mm Cutout Diameter 38mm Mounting Depth Alloy / Magnesium Cone...
www.slaacoustics.com
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I am looking to swap out the dash speakers. Are these the right connectors?
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todd2fst4u
Member
No. That is for the emergency speaker located under the glovebox.I am looking to swap out the dash speakers. Are these the right connectors?
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This is what you need.
Amped Garage Model 3/Y Midrange Speaker Harness
Harness adapter for any of the front midrange speakers on your Tesla Model 3. Your choice of 2, 3, 5, or 7 Pack. OEM style Connector & Terminals 18GA TXL Auto Primary wire Standard with (+) 4.8mm Female / (-) 2.8mm Female Flexo(R) Noise Reduction Sleeve to prevent rattles. What is the "Bare"...
www.ampedgarage.com
Thanks for the tip!
I think I'll go for the scanspeak/SB combo.
What do you suggest as front door woofers?
yes, but bracket for different subwoofer doesn't look the same. I installed JL 8", the bracket doesn't fit the Kicker 8" Just learn how to use "3D builder" in your windows app, it is free
I did the dash speaker upgrade today on a Feb 2023 built RWD and there is no center tweeter!
I Installed 2x Ref-4032cfx and 1x Ref-3022cfx (I already had the 3022's). I designed my own brackets for both speaker types and used tin snips to trim two of the mounting tabs on the 4032 to be a bit smaller and use integrated clips to hold the speaker in place. I will be replacing the door speakers as well, and adding the door tweeters so I disconnected the tweeters on the left and right 4" but left it intact for the center speaker, I don't need (or want!) 5 tweeters on the front stage. I cut the leg of the capacitor at the terminal and hot glued it out of the way to make sure it doesn't become an intermittent connection.
I will be installing a set of Hertz MPK165.3's in the doors, so I designed 3d printed brackets for both the tweeter which fits incredibly well with just a sleeve to give the factory clips somewhere to grab, and woofer with brackets that I designed. I have heard that some of the other available woofer brackets were flimsy so I designed my own. I also designed brackets for the Focal ISU200 which seems to be the go to speaker by many people so I'll probably try a set of those as well to see which speakers I like better.
I have also purchased a stock subwoofer enclosure, and will be adding an aftermarket subwoofer to it, as well as an amp, but one step at a time.
I Installed 2x Ref-4032cfx and 1x Ref-3022cfx (I already had the 3022's). I designed my own brackets for both speaker types and used tin snips to trim two of the mounting tabs on the 4032 to be a bit smaller and use integrated clips to hold the speaker in place. I will be replacing the door speakers as well, and adding the door tweeters so I disconnected the tweeters on the left and right 4" but left it intact for the center speaker, I don't need (or want!) 5 tweeters on the front stage. I cut the leg of the capacitor at the terminal and hot glued it out of the way to make sure it doesn't become an intermittent connection.
I will be installing a set of Hertz MPK165.3's in the doors, so I designed 3d printed brackets for both the tweeter which fits incredibly well with just a sleeve to give the factory clips somewhere to grab, and woofer with brackets that I designed. I have heard that some of the other available woofer brackets were flimsy so I designed my own. I also designed brackets for the Focal ISU200 which seems to be the go to speaker by many people so I'll probably try a set of those as well to see which speakers I like better.
I have also purchased a stock subwoofer enclosure, and will be adding an aftermarket subwoofer to it, as well as an amp, but one step at a time.
Awesome work. I'm impressed. Any chance you would be willing to share some of those 3D files for the brackets you designed with someone who is not on your level?
I'm looking at the feasibility of providing kits mainly to Canadians, as we typically get hosed (duty/customs) when bringing parts in, especially from the USA. I'm not new to the car audio world or to Tesla (though this is my first Tesla) I've done a lot with their batteries and other parts, I'm rebuilding my electric Porsche 944 conversion using the front and rear motors out of a P90D and a custom battery of my design.
Having said that I'll probably provide a few of the first adapters for the cost of shipping to ensure that everything fits well and they are easy to install.
More than anything I will try to provide adapters for a more diverse array of speakers, including woofers/tweeters/midrange and even subwoofers. I'd also like to provide a list of subwoofers that work well within the stock enclosure based on air volume and port tuning and maybe subjective sound quality and SPL measurements. To support this I'll sell parts, but the information will be shared with the Tesla community, especially in places like this.
I have a small print farm and over a decade of 3D printing experience. All of my adapters will be ABS. PETG is good, I use it for all sorts of things, but the model 3 is a fishbowl and we can expect to see pretty high temperatures, especially on the dash, ABS just has better properties for a car.
I have a trio of Scan Speak 10F/4424G00's on order for the dash. If anyone else has suggestions for other speakers (and what speakers need adapters) let me know.
I have a Kicker L7T8 on order to see if I can make a square sub work with the factory enclosure with just a 3D printed adapter, this should work well both sealed and ported, I'll try both.
I'll probably try to make a more official post as this is definitely the wrong thread for subwoofer information but the stock subwoofer enclosure is approximately 0.76cuft (using the fill with water method) and the port turning works out to be roughly 42Hz. This should make a good first step in helping people evaluate what aftermarket subwoofers will work well with the factory enclosure.
Early impressions of the Ref-4032 sides, 3022 center, is positive. For the price, it's a no-brainer for anyone looking for a bit more with minimal cost and effort. I'll give it a few weeks or a month and provide more feedback. The stock speakers are decent but there is definitely room for improvement!
Mrbrock
Active Member
Nice work! There has never been a center tweeter. It would only hamper imaging so why install one?
On our 2018 performance models there were in fact three 4-in drivers and an additional Center tweeter. I replaced all three 4-in drivers with the Infinity reference I think it was a 4022 model at that point. Did that on both cars and it made a very substantial difference. Never thought the additional Tweeter did much. Didn't seem to have much output. What's interesting is that the 4-in drivers are virtually full range with a high pass filter that protects them from bass drive (probably both to keep them in their linear Zone and also to reduce the possibility of dash resonance) but they get the full signal other than that. This was one of the problems with the stock system was that the stock drivers tended to fall off above about 6 to 8K. People have assumed that those were simply mid-range and that's just not true
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Mrbrock
Active Member
How was the tweeter mounted? I don't recall seeing a spot in the dash for one in my 2020 SR when I replaced the dash speakers.
todd2fst4u
Member
$55 for two speakers. I Had a 3.5 leftover from changing out my center channel on another car. So I made that work in the center spot.
$35 adapters and connectors from
$12 low profile ratchet.
So like $100.
At first I was like eh, was it worth it? Then I drove around for a bit and Is it worth it, 100%!
For me, the only thing this sound system lacks is clarity and volume, bass is great as is. Changing out the paper speakers and putting these in adds just that. Symbols and high notes ring so well now. Even at Lower volumes it sounds more balanced.
I will add these to the back deck in a few months. That would really help!
$35 adapters and connectors from
$12 low profile ratchet.
So like $100.
At first I was like eh, was it worth it? Then I drove around for a bit and Is it worth it, 100%!
For me, the only thing this sound system lacks is clarity and volume, bass is great as is. Changing out the paper speakers and putting these in adds just that. Symbols and high notes ring so well now. Even at Lower volumes it sounds more balanced.
I will add these to the back deck in a few months. That would really help!
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