Aftermarket Audio Fuse Replacement Caused Electrical System Error

[drupe14]

I have aftermarket sub and amp professionally installed in my 2021 Tesla Model 3P about a year ago. Recently, I blew a fuse while unplugging the the wires to the sub box. I purchased the same fuse that I blew (100A) and after I swapped out the fuse for a new one, I received the below errors on screen and the car won't drive:

VCFRONT_a192: Electrical system is unable to support all features - Shutting down features to conserve energy
VCFRONT_a180: Electrical system power reduced - Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly

I'm hoping anyone with aftermarket audio experience with Tesla cars can help troubleshoot this issue. Fingers crossed that I didn't break a component or damage the battery (back seat).

Anyone know why I'm receiving these errors?

 

[Kevy Baby]

First, have you done a touchscreen restart and Power Cycle?

So, there are three levels of "rebooting". The first two are in the NA Tesla Model 3 Manual.

1. Restarting the Touchscreen - Hold down both scroll buttons on the steering wheel until the touchscreen turns black. Despite what the manual says, can be done while driving. This is commonly referred to as a soft reset.
2. Power Cycling the Vehicle - See manual for details - involves sitting in the car for a couple of minutes. I guess this one could be called a "medium rest."
3. Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - as described on the Mountain Pass Performance web site. Not for everyone.

And if none of that works, I would reach out to your installer on this. Hopefully they know enough about the Tesla system to help you with this.

At least, that's what I would do

 

[drupe14]

First, have you done a touchscreen restart and Power Cycle?

So, there are three levels of "rebooting". The first two are in the NA Tesla Model 3 Manual.

1. Restarting the Touchscreen - Hold down both scroll buttons on the steering wheel until the touchscreen turns black. Despite what the manual says, can be done while driving. This is commonly referred to as a soft reset.
2. Power Cycling the Vehicle - See manual for details - involves sitting in the car for a couple of minutes. I guess this one could be called a "medium rest."
3. Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - as described on the Mountain Pass Performance web site. Not for everyone.

And if none of that works, I would reach out to your installer on this. Hopefully they know enough about the Tesla system to help you with this.

At least, that's what I would do

Thanks for the quick reply. I have tried the first option but I have not tried the other two options yet. I've also contacted the installer and awaiting his reply.

Do you know if the errors I'm receiving indicate damage to the battery? I'm hoping its not damaged but perhaps other folks know that those errors can only mean one thing - damaged battery.

 

[Kevy Baby]

Do you know if the errors I'm receiving indicate damage to the battery? I'm hoping its not damaged but perhaps other folks know that those errors can only mean one thing - damaged battery.

A basic search of TMC doesn't look good. Hopefully your car is still under warranty and it may be worthwhile to have the installers de-install prior to taking it to Tesla.

This isn't a definitive answer: just what I found from a quick search (actually started on Google, but everything just lead me back to TMC).

 

[smatthew]

I have aftermarket sub and amp professionally installed in my 2021 Tesla Model 3P about a year ago. Recently, I blew a fuse while unplugging the the wires to the sub box. I purchased the same fuse that I blew (100A) and after I swapped out the fuse for a new one, I received the below errors on screen and the car won't drive:

VCFRONT_a192: Electrical system is unable to support all features - Shutting down features to conserve energy
VCFRONT_a180: Electrical system power reduced - Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly

I'm hoping anyone with aftermarket audio experience with Tesla cars can help troubleshoot this issue. Fingers crossed that I didn't break a component or damage the battery (back seat).

Anyone know why I'm receiving these errors?

Blowing a 100 amp fuse is not something to be taken lightly...... The car probably saw the current spike and assumed the 12V battery was on its way out.

 

[Idkorcare]

Was the car fine after you blew the fuse? And did it only show these errors after reconnecting the amp?

 

[drupe14]

Was the car fine after you blew the fuse? And did it only show these errors after reconnecting the amp?

the car would not go into Drive or Reverse. Aside from not being able to drive everything worked properly. After leaving the car parked overnight, it seemed the low voltage battery charged up a bit bc the car was able to drive again (yay!). Now the only error displayed is "low voltage battery needs replacement".

 

[drupe14]

Was the car fine after you blew the fuse? And did it only show these errors after reconnecting the amp?

Yes car was fine, worked normally and drives normal after i blew the fuse. It only displayed all those errors once I placed the new amp in the plastic holder. Then for a few hours the car was undriveable and after leaving it alone for overnight, it seemed to charge the low voltage battery bc I'm able to drive it again. Now, what I cannot determine, is if the low voltage battery ACTUALLY needs to be replaced or if maybe I should do a hard reset to get rid of the error.,

 

[Idkorcare]

Im guessing you just pulled down the 12v batterys voltage low enough that the car thought it was bad, once the car went to sleep it went back above that threshold and now it thinks its ok.

Once the 12v dips below like 12.2v(i forget what exactly) the car will assume its bad or something wrong and stop charging it. The battery doesn’t receive the full amperage that comes off the penthouse, not only that the power is routed thru 2 computers before getting to the battery.

I tried running my amps directly off the battery. At half volume it was fine. When i cranked it up, after a few seconds the voltage just started to drop, not sure what would happen if I just let it go but rewired it to pull off the penthouse house and 2 years later I never had a single issue.

For your issue/question, your probably fine now if everything is ok, id get a volt meter wired up to the battery so you can track it inside but at the very least check that its around 13.4-14.4 with the car on.