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Aftermarket paint protection

What do you do to keep your Model S nice and shiny?

  • I got XPEL or similar put on (partial or full coverage)

    Votes: 45 42.9%
  • I got opticoat or cQuartz or similar put on

    Votes: 33 31.4%
  • I just wash and wax it, its just a car

    Votes: 22 21.0%
  • I don't own a Model S, but have a valuable opinion to share.

    Votes: 5 4.8%

  • Total voters
    105
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Mine's a full XPEL Ultimate wrap. At first it was just the full front, but after it was with Tesla service and they swirled the paint in the non-wrapped areas, I got the rest of the car done (except the black pieces next to the pano). It totals to two separate paint correction efforts and the cost of a complete wrap.

My main concern was minimizing permanent rock chips, but also swirling. Given how paint films "self-heal" (I don't think this is unique to XPEL), this has worked out great as I don't have any swirls or chips today where film exists and it's been 8 months/16k miles since I've taken delivery. Proper washing/drying technique is key to minimizing marring, swirling, and other paint damage, but having a wrap gives me a lot of forgiving buffer when paint is not handled carefully, especially when driving on Bay Area freeways where dirt trucks are generously scattering debris with all the construction going on in the Silicon Valley.

I was planning to get coating applied (Opti-Coat, CQuartz, whatever) at the same time as the wrap, but the folks doing the paint correction/film work was getting out of the coating business at that time. My priority was the correction and film so this wasn't as big of a deal since a general sealant will work fine for me. I prioritize physical protection over gloss.

Some folks talk about just repainting when there are too many road scars. For me, that's an extremely non-desirable option due to the cost of a good repaint (which I understand is never as good as factory) and plus the bragging rights of having the original factory clear in mint condition after long ownership.

2015 Tesla P 85 New Car Detail Clearfilm wrap (Entire Car) - Professional Detailer's Studio - Detailing Bliss powered by Detailer's Domain
 
Thanks docrice. I think its clear, some protection is necessary.

I just can't get myself to pay for a full wrap AFTER having paid for the car. I guess its because this is my first fancy car. I bet people who buy Bentleys etc. just factor this into the cost. When I set out to buy a Tesla, I didn't think I'd need this. But then I see people doing xpel wraps on a 40K BMW too .. blows my mind.

The issue though is, when you buy a collector car (bentley, rolls, mclaren, lambo, ferrari etc.), the investment in the car (depending upon the car) may increase after a while. Tesla is a utilitarian car, the xpel cost of full wrap at $6K, is probably going to be hard to recover at sale. Yes its easier to sell a car that looks nice vs. vice versa, but I doubt it'd make a 6K difference. This 6K as I see it, is more or less sunk cost. 6K on a $300K car ~ maybe ok. 6K on a 90-100K, phew! Thats tough!

And the more I think about it, the choice is boiling down to a partial xpel, or a full coating.
Even if I get partial xpel, the ass of the car is still vulnerable. Albeit the most vulnerable areas are protected, but still!
Plus a coating + regular handwash will keep it nearly as good as xpel. It won't protect from rock chips, but it'll protect from nearly everything else.

I think I'm leaning towards full coating and skipping the xpel.
I'd do full xpel if it was maybe 1.5 times the cost of a full coating, but at 5-6 times the cost of a full coating .. I guess I'll risk it.

There is always touch up paint for those heavy days anyway.

Although, I'll keep xpel in mind for my future McLaren.

PS: All comments, and votes on this topic have been very helpful. Huge thanks to everyone who participated.
 
FWIW, I'm going with the Gtechniq Crystal Serum coating on the entire car - after paint correction of course. Just under $2k at my local installer/detailer. I'm hearing it is a step up from the Opti-coat (and a $500 step up in price) but will save me from the merciless lovebugs. I've seen a Sig MS with it (Larry Chanin's) and it looks absolutely fantastic - 2 years later.

Kuttakamina, this might be helpful: Gtechniq Application

Here's pics from my local detailer in Sarasota, who is an absolute professional. Take a look at the condition of this 1 week old car! If it comes this way at my delivery, I'll tell them to take it back! Ok, not really.

2015 Black Model S P85D New Car Prep --- This one was pretty bad

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in, voted, and provided insight. As always, very helpful. cs
 
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Partial vs full is a big choice to make with reasonable support for both ways. I didn't want lines to show, but not sure I didn't want the lines several thousand dollars worth. What convinced me though was having all over protection from casual washes, someone wiping a dusty/dirty area with their hand when walking by, etc. and leaving whirl marks, etc. I take good care of the car and either wash it myself safely or take it to a trusted detailed, but things still happen, whether it's "courtesy washes" I wasn't expecting or I lose focus, whatever. It's easier to recover with film, and though nano reduces such damage and if it happens acts as a sacrificial layer, it still happens, requires buffing, and so on.

Even bigger component to me personally going full vs partial was bird and insect poop and insect guts. Birds especially aren't going to only hit the front areas, door edges, etc. often covered by a partial. Both birds and insects can still etch the sealants and coatings. Until xpel ultimate, they'd etch film too. Faster you get them off anything, the better, but if something happens to sit, at least with xpel ultimate, once cleaned off the self healing layer will reflow into it and make it completely better (so far, in my experience).
 
I too wrestled with this. Since this is going to be my daily driver (almost 30k miles per year), I knew it would get a beating. Also because of the nature of my work, sometimes I have to drive down dirt/gravel roads.

So I started off with just the full front. Then I added the doors (because of fear of door dings), then the rear bumper (3rd row seat and climbing in and out). Only leaving the rear quarter panels and trunk unwrapped. Since mine is in the shop right now getting a new rear quarter panel, I'm thinking about going ahead and getting the rest wrapped. I had a sharp object hit the drivers side door a couple of weeks ago and put two gashes in the wrap and then hit the rear quarter panel (which had a cquartz coating). The door appears to have the paint saved and the quarter panel was marred down to the aluminum. I won't know for sure until I hear back from the body shop. Perhaps that will help me make up my mind.
 
I too wrestled with this. Since this is going to be my daily driver (almost 30k miles per year), I knew it would get a beating. Also because of the nature of my work, sometimes I have to drive down dirt/gravel roads.

So I started off with just the full front. Then I added the doors (because of fear of door dings), then the rear bumper (3rd row seat and climbing in and out). Only leaving the rear quarter panels and trunk unwrapped. Since mine is in the shop right now getting a new rear quarter panel, I'm thinking about going ahead and getting the rest wrapped. I had a sharp object hit the drivers side door a couple of weeks ago and put two gashes in the wrap and then hit the rear quarter panel (which had a cquartz coating). The door appears to have the paint saved and the quarter panel was marred down to the aluminum. I won't know for sure until I hear back from the body shop. Perhaps that will help me make up my mind.

More power to you, but for what you spent keeping your car shiny, you could have bought a new car out of that. Not a tesla, but still a nice car for easy use, and a rough car for rough use.
 
^ Agreed.

I'm just not sold on the expensive as hell wrap. I'm sure some that could afford the P85D might not care about the cost of the wrap (or the car for that matter). But I do. I'll drop $2k on a good sealant and just make sure to remove bug guts as soon as possible to prevent long term damage.
 
This thread is an eye opener for sure. I'm torn on getting a partial wrap (def. not getting a full one) or doing nothing.

This'll catch me some flack -- On my old car, I washed it regularly for the first few years. But at some point, I was just "eh, whatever" and probably went a good 2-3 years without seeing the inside of a car wash or waxing it. My car has several dents from... various things, which I don't see a wrap preventing.

I think I'm leaning towards nothing...
 
Max* the opticoat etc. is about $1k for the entire car. We live closeby, I don't mean to push you into a decision, but we could approach the detailer I've picked for mine for a multicar discount. He may knock 50 or 100 bucks, worth asking!

BTW even the opticoat etc. style, there are lots of choices, and even over there, I think opticoat is not worth the price. There are better protections available for cheaper - and they will last the lifetime of the car. Basically with that coat on, your Tesla can be treated like a Honda. Not that I'll be taking it through car washes, but it'll handle the abuse of my unprofessional handcleanings at home.

Also, I will get a simple $99 pressure washer and another 50 bucks worth of cleaning apparatus to reduce my cleaning effort, so it won't be as big a deal to wash it once a month atleast. I'm thinking, if I can get the wash down to 15 mins, I'll do it more often. Wax apparently is not necessary with these coatings.
 
I thought Opticoat needs to be reapplied every few years? The only reason I was considering xpel is that it seemed the most low maintenance option... If I need to reapply, I might as well just wax
 
I thought Opticoat needs to be reapplied every few years? The only reason I was considering xpel is that it seemed the most low maintenance option... If I need to reapply, I might as well just wax

There are types of opticoat, some that need to be reapplied, others that don't. Also there are alternatives other than opticoat.
 
Look, I know it's ugly, but for those 2 weeks of lovebug season each year, what's wrong with the old fashioned vinyl black bra for protecting the front? Anyone make one of those for the MS?

(I'm expecting to get completely chastised on this forum for even suggesting this!)
 
Look, I know it's ugly, but for those 2 weeks of lovebug season each year, what's wrong with the old fashioned vinyl black bra for protecting the front? Anyone make one of those for the MS?

(I'm expecting to get completely chastised on this forum for even suggesting this!)

unless you get full xpel, which you won't (cost) xpel won't protect you from love bugs.
And a $1k ceramic coat protects the entire car from love bugs, as long as you wash it regularly.

My point is, just get the ceramic stuff, around 1k, and hand wash it regularly. Seems to be the best compromise.

That is what life is about, compromises. #wisewords

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Also black bras are not ugly. Well depends whose wearing them anyway. On tesla or Acura integra, they look fine.
 
I would xpel front end. Bumper. Hood. fender. And optionally opticoat or leave the rest alone.

Xpel has saved me alot. Opticoat hasn't done much in my opinion. But my car is white. Opticoat helps dark cars more. It's 650 in the DC area. Xpel probably 1500 ish.

Well worth it for rocks. Debris. Etc.

Only need to xpel front and mirrors for love bugs too. I sold cars in fl and we would respray front bumper and mirrors for love bugs.