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Does lowering mean replacing the springs? If so what does it do to Tesla warranty.
Stunning! I love the baby blue calipers.

I could be wrong (so someone more knowledgeable can correct me), but yes, when lowering your car, you can get lowering springs which replace the springs that are currently in your car or you can get coil overs which also lower your car but also provide more adjustability in the ride. This would also require replacing the factor shocks and springs and replacing them with aftermarket parts.

Regarding the warranty, Tesla would have to prove that the aftermarket springs or coilovers are the cause of you having some kind of issue with your suspension. So if you go into the service center because your AC is not working properly, they will not say that the warranty coverage to fix your AC is now voided because you have aftermarket springs as those aftermarket springs had nothing to do with your AC not working properly.
 
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Did you get rid of the other wheels? The black/Polished 5 spoke I believe....those were awesome. Think they were Sig as well? What’re your tint specs on your MCR?

Ski

VS Forged VS03 gloss black barrels and tinted face 20x9 et28 and 20x10.5 et40

Sig 107 brushed bronze tinted and diamond cut faces staggered square 20x9 et 30 front and et21 rear.

Possibly looking at 21x9 and 21x11 Signature SV304S, SV305S or SV307S multipiece wheels next that I’m discussing with Jamie...I get bored easily.
 
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Just remembered I should follow-up: went with Signature Wheels SV501s 19x8, ET18.
Tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3+ In 245/40-19 (1% circumference difference).
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Now this is more like it. If you aren’t tracking your car why go wider? Why go fat and kill your efficiency? Everyone keeps talking about wanting more concavity.....well staying at 8 or 8.5 and push the damn wheel out will achieve that. ET 25 and below offset is possible. Why even do 10.5 and a 40 offset? No one sees the inside plane of your wheels and with the right design you can see some hella concavity on the outside face.
 
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The 265 front and 285 feels pretty balanced and it’s hard to put the 3 to the limits on the street nor do I want to. I also have the UPP front (soft) and rear sways (medium) too, so that definitely helps.

I can fit my pinkie finger in between the knuckle and rim, so about 5-6mm of clearance when straight, but only 1-2mm on full left and right. Time to put on the MPP rotors to get the extra 4mm.

That is very helpful. Thank you. It tells me I can't go past 40mm. I'm assuming that you have michelin pilot sport 4S?

Now this is more like it. If you aren’t tracking your car why go wider? Why go fat and kill your efficiency? Everyone keeps talking about wanting more concavity.....well staying at 8 or 8.5 and push the damn wheel out will achieve that. ET 25 and below offset is possible. Why even do 10.5 and a 40 offset?

Putting the wheel out in the air stream with a lower offset actually can kill efficiency even more than a wider tire that is tucked in neatly by decent amount of offset. I've got 235/30 + 275/30 and I really only lost a few W hours per mile over the stock 20" set up.
 
That is very helpful. Thank you. It tells me I can't go past 40mm. I'm assuming that you have michelin pilot sport 4S?



Putting the wheel out in the air stream with a lower offset actually can kill efficiency even more than a wider tire that is tucked in neatly by decent amount of offset. I've got 235/30 + 275/30 and I really only lost a few W hours per mile over the stock 20" set up.
It’s your 275s man. That’s the change in your setup that’s resulting in lower efficiency. I’m running oem 19s with 10/15 spacers so I’m pretty flushed and my wh/mi is 260 average for half a year and no change. So with that thinking going low offset on a 8/8.5 wheel with a 235/245 rubber and sub 30 ET will give you the best of all worlds.
 

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It’s your 275s man. That’s the change in your setup that’s resulting in lower efficiency. I’m running oem 19s with 10/15 spacers so I’m pretty flushed and my wh/mi is 260 average for half a year and no change. So with that thinking going low offset on a 8/8.5 wheel with a 235/245 rubber and sub 30 ET will give you the best of all worlds.

Little point in debating this but again a tire with poke out is going to have more drag than one that is tucked into the body. If you don't believe that, please do consult any number of references on aerodynamic drag
 
E-FTW is running 245’s on all four corners. Compared to a 237/275 setup that’s only a total difference of 40mm.....negligible difference in wh/mile efficiency imo. Tire compound, wheel design and specs would have a bigger impact. The other issue with such a low offset is the potential added wear on hub bearings and change in scrub radius.

My personal experience is that my staggered VS forged setup gets the same if not BETTER efficiency than the stock 20’s. I didn’t have the stock 20’s on too long but...what i saw is slightly better efficiency with my staggered set. That and a 2k mile road trip on the staggered set showed better efficiency than what ABRP, configured for stock 20’s, displayed......which is crowd sourced data.
 
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@e-FTW ....real truth. What’s your average wh/mi so this topic can be put to bed. I wanna know of the logic makes sense. You seem to be the only one rocking this type of setup and I’m about to go in with ya.
I do not have a lot of data to go with. I can say that my latest road trips did not reveal any range surprises. And that is good enough for me!

Good for range:
  • Lighter wheels (-10 lbs each)
  • All-season compound (less rolling resistance I assume)
Less-good for range:
  • Offset pushed wheels out into air stream (but I have no data or aerodynamics CFD computations to base impact on)
  • An extra pinky finger width of tire at each corner...
In the end, I do not believe there is big difference in range. Even if there was a measurable difference, the size of our batteries and the speed of Superchargers should make that pretty much irrelevant.
Just enjoy the great looks! I know I am!
 
I may not be thinking clearly...all things held constant, if I mount a 245/35/20 [235 was OEM] tire on my car, visually (and physically), will my car gain ground clearance and the reduce the wheel well gap?
I understand it's on average 0.3" greater in diameter, so that's my logic. Thanks for either confirming or setting me straight!
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I may not be thinking clearly...all things held constant, if I mount a 245/35/20 [235 was OEM] tire on my car, visually (and physically), will my car gain ground clearance and the reduce the wheel well gap?
I understand it's on average 0.3" greater in diameter, so that's my logic. Thanks for either confirming or setting me straight!
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Yes. Ride .15” higher with .15” less wheel well gap.
 
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