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I am unsure where they were made, any idea on how to check? But yea, so far I like them. Road noise seems the same or slightly better and definitely a bit more comfortable than the 235/35/20 on rougher roads. The tire noise never bothered me as much as the wind noise I get from my driver side, I listen to my music pretty loud anyways so doesn't bother me too much as I have gotten used to it lol. I do notice turning is a bit heavier than my old tires and not as sticky, but for my driving perfectly fine. Still waiting to see what efficiency is like, sitting at 284 wh/mi with 80 miles on them, a mix of highway and city driving. My old setup was getting me about 300 wh/mi.
The tires are stamped with where they’re made. It will say somewhere on the face of the tire. I tried to see if I could see it in photos but I didn’t.
 
Titan T-LD1, 20x8.5 +35 all around.

yx4EmEx.jpg

lAt1E7Q.jpg

qGAsPGk.jpg
 
Titan T-LD1, 20x8.5 +35 all around.

yx4EmEx.jpg

lAt1E7Q.jpg

qGAsPGk.jpg
How much do those wheels weigh? I know T-Sportline’s version of the Uberturbines are extremely heavy. Also, how is understeer with the much wider setup? I went the opposite direction and put 18” wheels because I was tired of bent rims and having so few tire choices, plus efficiency was not the greatest. I’m utterly astonished by how much better the efficiency is on the Michelin MXM4 tires. While not going to be the ideal tire for track driving, around town and backroads it has shown itself to be more than up to the task. My efficiency has improved by nearly 25% with nearly 300 miles of mixed highway and city driving from ~300wh/mi to 230.
 
If you mention or expect “flush fitment” this is what you should be seeing in the rear view mirror. Wheel should be inline with the body of the car at your ride height

View attachment 677244
I think the concept of "flush fitment" can be subjective to a certain extent. I consider flush for me what the front wheels look like with 9"wide wheels with +35 offset. Anymore than that looks too aggressive for me, considering I'm not out to drive it like I'm on a racetrack. What bugs me is the rear wheels. I think it's right around 5-10mm too sunken in for my taste. At 19x9 +35 squared.

Also, the flushness of the wheels are impacted by the camber that occurs from lowering the ride height. In my case, I prefer being dialed in right at three quarters of an inch compared to stock, so I don't necessarily need too aggressive an offset for the rear wheels, just a tad more than the fronts. I could go lower, but I have been at 1.5," 1", and now this, and I prefer it most. It's almost double that of the p3 ride height, but not low enough that I have to constantly worry about scraping or driving at an angle for certain inclines. Plus, I like the even wheel arch gap look with this setting.
 
How much do those wheels weigh? I know T-Sportline’s version of the Uberturbines are extremely heavy. Also, how is understeer with the much wider setup? I went the opposite direction and put 18” wheels because I was tired of bent rims and having so few tire choices, plus efficiency was not the greatest. I’m utterly astonished by how much better the efficiency is on the Michelin MXM4 tires. While not going to be the ideal tire for track driving, around town and backroads it has shown itself to be more than up to the task. My efficiency has improved by nearly 25% with nearly 300 miles of mixed highway and city driving from ~300wh/mi to 230.
Supposedly 24.7lbs for the 8.5". I did not get the staggered setup, so 20x8.5 all around. Same as stock.

I'm gonna give it a few weeks to report on the efficiency, use data from TeslaFi. So far I would say efficiency is unchanged but it's only been a day.
 
I've about to purchase my 20x9" square wheel setup to replace my ubers (+35 offset) I've also been tirelessly debating 245/35/20 or 255/35/20 - I was only hesitating on the larger tire because of the height difference (0.5" so this is minor) vs. stock and potential range hit. You're very right there are far more (and cheaper tire options) in the 255 size. These won't "poke" out past the fenders correct?

Are both of these "issues" negligible? The roads in my area are TERRIBLE so i'd gladly welcome the extra cushion in sidewall even for a tradeoff in range as long as it's not awful. I'd also prefer not to mess with the suspension/lowering as the car is 2 days old so if it can fill the wheel gap some that's a huge plus as well.
 
Damn. Yet efficiency is probably pretty good since it covers so much surface area. And they look frickin sweet.
I’ll never really know; mine have < 100 miles on them and the next time I see them (when my car comes back from ppf/cc/tint), I’ll be mounting up some new wheels/tires.

I’ve been planning to store them & keep them as spares, but since I’m purchasing the car (no lease return to worry about), I might sell them to offset the price of another set of aftermarket wheels; then I can switch back & forth and also always have a set of spares in case something happens.
 
Thanks for that.

There's too many sizing variables between aftermarket BBKs, so I can't say for certain.
For those who want to try it... be my guest. 😅

Did you ever mount your NT03s on your M3P? We tested it, and they won't clear the rear brakes radially.
View attachment 673737


Danny
So these will clear the fronts on a performance model but not the rear?
Do you have any pictures of the NT03RRs mounted on the rear? Would love to fit the SBC NT03m on the rears but it doesn't look like going wider would help either.
 
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