MrThreeeee
Member
Here are those black SSR GTX01's for reference. Good value as stated, Konig Dekagram is similar spec in satin black too.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Aftermarket Wheels on Model 3
- Thread starter kbecks13
- Start date
Hello all and Merry Christmas. I just purchased a new to me 2019 Model 3 Long Range AWD ( tire size on the vehicle now is 235/45/R18 with the Aero covers ) - Current;y have Michelin X-Ice tires on those stock rims, and intend to keep those rims as my winter rims. I want to purchase rims and I'm looking at the FC04 from fastwheels, however is comes in 18x8 or 18x9. The dealer gave me Michelin Pilot All Season 4's brand new at 235/45/r18. I prefer to use the smaller rims size as our roads absolutely suck around here, so it will be better for the efficiency and hopefully will keep the tires from getting beaten off the car too often. I'm not very familiar with aftermarket rim sizing, so I really need you guys to help me out, do I need the 18x8 or the 18x9? Do I need some sort of a spacer or something? Last thing I want to have to do is get the rims and than wait again for spacers. Looking to order over the holidays to hopefully strike some sort of holiday deal on rims. Thanks again and happy holidays!
You can use either one. An 8” and a 9” rim will fit. That’s your personal choice. As far as spacers that depends on how you want them to “look”. Wheel offset is what controls how far they will stick in or out. If they are to far in for your liking you can use a spacer to push them out. If your wheels have the proper offset though you won’t need spacers.
First post here. Been looking through this forum for quite a while now and i love all the suggested wheels like signature, and omg those Brixton’s are beautiful. Unfortunately they’re out of my budget. I came across these OHM wheels designed for Tesla‘s and didn’t see them on this thread so I thought I ask if anyone has them and would share some thoughts even if you don’t, what do you think of them? My car is a 2021 white LR with the chrome delete. I wanted some bright wheels to pop with the white because I feel like gloss black even with the nice contrast gets hidden. What do you guys think? Also price wise these are Pretty cheap compared to other on this thread and they are flow formed.
EcoCloudIT
Active Member
I would question are they running spacers? When I looked I noticed a lot of the wheel suppliers do poor offsets and therefore to get the look that is in their photos one needs to use spacers in addition to lowering.
If one is buying wheels, get the offsets right at the outset, don’t add spacers later….
Yeah you’re right the car is definitely lowered too which mine isn’t (yet) But the spacers is a good shout, the fitment does look too good to be true . Do you think that could be a result of lowering the car? These are some pics of the same rim but stock ride height and gloss black.
EcoCloudIT
Active Member
The rims don’t have ideal offsets so in photos where these rims appear flush they will have spacers fitted.
Better to order rims with the correct offset that fits one’s desired look (flush etc.).
I plan on installing coilovers on my incoming m3p, but won't know when that'll be. If I was to get wheels first in anticipation of a lowered fitment (19×9.0 et30-33 with 245/40R19 tires), Will I have any issues running them on stock height until I am able to be lowered? Or should I lower the car first, and then get wheels?
Amid all the gorgeous wheels shown, here's an odder question: anybody use a non-T wheel like a Ford DR3Z1007F (off a 2013 Mustang) on a SR+? Asking because I'd like some dedicated winter wheels, and my cousin has a set of these I can have. Obviously this is "cringe" territory for most Tesla owners. But when it comes to limited winter use, I'm not so bothered. (I even have steel wheels, no hubcaps, on one vehicle during winter)
The Fords are 18x8 +44, 5x114.3. Offset isn't ideal, but going half-inch narrower should add 12mm inside clearance. The Mustang wheels have 70.1 hub bore, so they would not be hub-centering (I have dealt with that on aftermarket rims), but I think it could fit around the 64.1 Tesla bore without interference.
There's a couple things I'm not confident of: (#1) I suspect the rotor retaining bolt head will interfere. On normal cars, the rotor retaining screw keeps the rotor from falling while the brake caliper is removed. But I've had several cars where it's snapped off, and it didn't bother me. But I don't know about Tesla. (#2) the Ford has 1/2"-20 studs, which are slightly smaller than M14. Not sure if the wheels would need drilling-out. I haven't owned a car with SAE studs, so that's new to me.
Regarding which shoes I might put on them, I hadn't decided that yet.
The Fords are 18x8 +44, 5x114.3. Offset isn't ideal, but going half-inch narrower should add 12mm inside clearance. The Mustang wheels have 70.1 hub bore, so they would not be hub-centering (I have dealt with that on aftermarket rims), but I think it could fit around the 64.1 Tesla bore without interference.
There's a couple things I'm not confident of: (#1) I suspect the rotor retaining bolt head will interfere. On normal cars, the rotor retaining screw keeps the rotor from falling while the brake caliper is removed. But I've had several cars where it's snapped off, and it didn't bother me. But I don't know about Tesla. (#2) the Ford has 1/2"-20 studs, which are slightly smaller than M14. Not sure if the wheels would need drilling-out. I haven't owned a car with SAE studs, so that's new to me.
Regarding which shoes I might put on them, I hadn't decided that yet.
Gimmethecash
Member
Should be OK so long as the stud holes will take the 14mm studs or you can have them enlarged. Caliper clearance could be an issue though. Use hubcentric rings to center the wheels.
Take the rotor retaining bolts off; they’re only needed during vehicle assembly and the calipers will hold the rotors on. My front rotors don’t have a hole for them and I have no issues going without.
Take the rotor retaining bolts off; they’re only needed during vehicle assembly and the calipers will hold the rotors on. My front rotors don’t have a hole for them and I have no issues going without.
pdx_m3s
Active Member
Agree. Definitely want to stay away from aluminum lug nuts.
Additionally, many aftermarket lug nuts have a much smaller conical seat face versus OEM. There are some good aftermarket steel lug nuts with a nice wide seat face.
I'm with you with respect to aluminum nuts. I don't have any reservation about the aftermarket steel nuts with I nice wide cone that are made for trucks.
How big of a factor is weight on range?
I’ve come across the VMR v710. They make a Flow Formed that seems to be a good price and decent drop in weight.
My problem is I’m leaning towards a 20in black wheel set and the Flow Formed they only make in 19” and graphite. The regular 710 they make in satin black and 20in like I’d prefer but I’m curious how much more of a hit I’d be taking there.
Will the weight difference and strength of cast 20s be that much of a big deal vs the flow formed 19s?
I’ve come across the VMR v710. They make a Flow Formed that seems to be a good price and decent drop in weight.
My problem is I’m leaning towards a 20in black wheel set and the Flow Formed they only make in 19” and graphite. The regular 710 they make in satin black and 20in like I’d prefer but I’m curious how much more of a hit I’d be taking there.
Will the weight difference and strength of cast 20s be that much of a big deal vs the flow formed 19s?
pdx_m3s
Active Member
Weight impacts range very little. It’s all about aerodynamics of the wheel face.
Different tires have different levels of rolling resistance, sticky summer tires might have worse range than all season tires.
Tire pressure also plays a big part in this, higher pressure = less traction = more range
And as for wheels: open wheel design you see on sport/race/track wheels is the opposite of what's good for range (it is however very good for venting heat from breaks)
And lastly, wheel's offset is also a big part, if the wheel pokes out or is very flush it can cause air turbulence and add drag, meanwhile recessed wheel's location reduces that.
There's a reason that the OEM configuration is very much recessed and not flash nor poking out and that the aero wheels are the shape they are.
Tire width also plays a part, wider = more traction = less range.
* not all above factors carry same weight / as much of an impact as other factors
EcoCloudIT
Active Member
I run a flush offset (on a M3P) and whilst I cannot say I have had zero range drop (as I didn’t check that closely) I can say that I get 515km (320miles) on a full charge….so only 8% less than advertised….I really do not think offset impacts range all that much, wheel design does (I am running factory P wheels with aggressive offsets).
Correct, it impacts but not all that much, not as much as open vs aerodynamic wheel design or sticky wide tires vs narrow OEM all season tires.
That's literally why I wrote "* not all above factors carry same weight / as much of an impact as other factors" in my post
Similar threads
- Marketplace listing
- Marketplace listing
