Concavity is a metric on wheel face / style / pad. A “drop cup” center will not yield a visually deeper center than a thin pad center. Lipped wheels don’t have concavity bc it trades it for a flat face and lip. Offset is also metric but actually a lot of people think that you can just take that number and put it on another wheel and that’s not true at all. It’s all based on everything I’ve stated in the previous sentences. That’s why wheels look different on different cars with the same style / diameter / width / offset / tire size.
If you want the deepest visual concavity you have to go with a wheel style / pad that is thin and the only way to do that is forged. 99% of manufacturers will not give you measured concavity depth. You’d have to rely on other peoples physical measurements. For example my concavity from lip to centercap is 3.25” front and 3.5” rear. This was highly dependent on my first paragraph. This is also based on the tire size I wanted to run and width. You have to go a wide width in order to get a deep / deeper concavity. I would say a 9.5” min width. With that you have to calculate tire height, offset, camber, drop height, stretched sidewall or flat look, and camber under compression.
Most flow forged companies “cheat” the offset by making one concavity face that is universal and they add on pad thickness (think welded spacer to wheel) to create a lower offset. That’s why lug nuts are more recessed in the rear of flow forged wheels. Forged wheels are different bc they remove the thickened pad for concavity.
So long story short…if you are looking for a deep concavity go forged. The only one I know that gives me all of the above wheel metics is Signature if you’re looking for a custom fitment. I’ve attached my current wheel profile below as an example.
View attachment 758816View attachment 758821