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View attachment 88348719x9.5 35 Konig Heliograms on 265/35 Hankook S1s. Lowered on Eibach springs. Camber arms in the rear. Alignment is something like -1.X in front and -.8 rear. Neutral toe.


View attachment 883486

Really enjoy the matte bronze on a blue car. The silver calipers pop under that as well. Pretty much done with the car except some minor stuff like a front lip, master cyl brace, etc… Little stuff. It’s my daily— 20k miles a year.
Those wheels look great. Flow-formed too. Nice choice.
 
As seen above but photographed by me after we finished up the install. Shot with EOS R and 100mm F2.8.
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20221208-Skye-1995-Heliogram-BZ-3.jpg
 
Nope, no poke. What you see below is 18x9.5 +22 GTX01 with OEM performance rotors and 265/40/18 NT01's. Out of anything that I do, wheel and tire setup is my forte' and has been for the last 30 years. Keep in mind NT01's have bulgy sidewalls also. A normal street radial won't be like this.

I also have only -1.0 camber front and -0.6 rear. This was before I had front FUCA's so I reduced camber in the rear to be less than the front for more rotation. Plenty of guys have run this setup with street radials.


View attachment 775113View attachment 775114
This is the perfect fitment. I have 18x9.5 +22 and +35 (38 with 3mm spacer). Does the OEM performance rotor make a difference on the offset/fitment? I have a performance stealth without the brakes, and the wheels seem to be poking out a bit when I test fitted it without tires and at full suspension droop (on Quik Jack). I’m hoping I can adjust the camber to help with the fitment. Definitely, going 255’s instead of 265’s.
E5A54476-1523-4EB6-BD06-4F7AD7B29DC0.jpeg
 
This is the perfect fitment. I have 18x9.5 +22 and +35 (38 with 3mm spacer). Does the OEM performance rotor make a difference on the offset/fitment? I have a performance stealth without the brakes, and the wheels seem to be poking out a bit when I test fitted it without tires and at full suspension droop (on Quik Jack). I’m hoping I can adjust the camber to help with the fitment. Definitely, going 255’s instead of 265’s.View attachment 883516
The non P rotors, even aftermarket rotors, make a difference of 4-5mm depending on what you have. With that said, yes it will differ from a PUP car. I however would still get a 265/40/18 and you'll be fine. Just run the "+35" up front and the +22 in the rear. I'm not a fan of doing it this way. I would have advised to get a symmetrical offset so that you can rotate them. I strongly advise getting a rear camber arm so you can dial in the +22 but please get some 265's. I think 255's will be slightly shorter in tire diameter. In order to make it look right you'll have to lower the car more which will compromise your ground/battery clearance.

Checking for poke under full droop just won't work. There's a lot of positive camber gain at droop so you're just messing with yourself. All I can advise is that you get the correct tire diameter and a rear camber arm. Everything will be alright. Run the +35 up front and +22 in the rear. Dial in camber in the rear to suit.

I will be releasing another video of how we install MPP coilovers and adjust the front suspension carriage for camber/caster adjustments. Are you going to install those Tein coilovers yourself? BTW MPP rear camber arms are the best imo. Must haves!!!!!!

BTW, which wheels did you order? You teasing me by only showing the barrel. lol.
 
This is the perfect fitment. I have 18x9.5 +22 and +35 (38 with 3mm spacer). Does the OEM performance rotor make a difference on the offset/fitment? I have a performance stealth without the brakes, and the wheels seem to be poking out a bit when I test fitted it without tires and at full suspension droop (on Quik Jack). I’m hoping I can adjust the camber to help with the fitment. Definitely, going 255’s instead of 265’s.View attachment 883516

BTW I know this isn't aftermarket but it is a car similar to yours with OEM 18" Aero wheels and a net offset if 8.5" +15, with the help of 25mm Aspira spacers. Fitment will be similar to a 9.5 +27. I can't recall where I set his rear camber but I would think if you do -1.5 in the rear you'll fit just fine. The Michelin CC2's are pretty chunky too and he's also on Tein coilovers. We did raise the car up though because it settled a good amount within a few days and being that he works in San Francisco it just wasn't working out. It looks super good though.
Chalk White TM3 RWD ARD.jpg

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Just got home after a full day with the family, and first off, thanks for the replies! Especially P3D-R!

It kept bugging me why the wheel was extending so far out. This morning when I was test fitting it, it was my fault for not checking which wheel I was mounting in the front and just assumed I had the +38 based on wheel, but when I doubled checked right now, it was the +22! Haha, that’s what I get for having drinks the before and being slightly hungover. Anyways, with that said, I have no doubt that the +35 will fit perfect, and I’ll be sticking your advice with the 265! I have a history with the right offsets for Hondas, BMW, and even my Land Cruiser for that right fitment, but I’m new to Tesla and this is the only thread/forum to go off of for solid info! So thanks again everyone!

I did have issues with the inner wheel hitting the knuckle (barely), so I bought a 3mm spacer for clearance. I want to refit it, but it already being so late, I won’t have time tonight.

As for the wheel, the shop I purchased the wheels from said I was the first Model 3 to get these, and they were a SEMA release, so they’re new. After reading 289 pages, no one has these yet, which is why I can’t wait to put them in and hopefully they look as good as I’m picturing it to be.

I’ll post updates this week when I put them on! 365performance in SoCal will be doing the install of the TEIN suspension. It looks easy, but time is limited.
 
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I could also use some help. Im ordering wheels, wanting flush, but rather error sunk 1-2mm vs poke.
Currently running 10mm front 18mm rear spacer on 245/40/19 DWS.
Lowered approx 35mm, Camber -1.5 -1.8
19x9 ET 32,33,34? w/ 255x35 PS4S, and thought I use a 10mm spacer on the rear


Also if i add MPP rotors, which i think only effects a performance, rotor hat is same thickness as my Long Range, is that correct?
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BTW I know this isn't aftermarket but it is a car similar to yours with OEM 18" Aero wheels and a net offset if 8.5" +15, with the help of 25mm Aspira spacers. Fitment will be similar to a 9.5 +27. I can't recall where I set his rear camber but I would think if you do -1.5 in the rear you'll fit just fine. The Michelin CC2's are pretty chunky too and he's also on Tein coilovers. We did raise the car up though because it settled a good amount within a few days and being that he works in San Francisco it just wasn't working out. It looks super good though.
View attachment 883555
View attachment 883556

Rishie! Those factory 18s looks really good on the Teins. Is he running 265/45R18s? Opens the door for 18" Volks LOL.
 
Rishie! Those factory 18s looks really good on the Teins. Is he running 265/45R18s? Opens the door for 18" Volks LOL.
That is an oem size tire with Michelin CC2's in a 235/45/18. The issue you would run into with 18" on Volks or any other wheel is potentially a radial clearance issue with the rear caliper ebrake mechanism on the PUP 3's. That's where we have problems on 18". It's so close that we have to be careful of wheel weights positions on the innermost part of the barrel.
 
I could also use some help. Im ordering wheels, wanting flush, but rather error sunk 1-2mm vs poke.
Currently running 10mm front 18mm rear spacer on 245/40/19 DWS.
Lowered approx 35mm, Camber -1.5 -1.8
19x9 ET 32,33,34? w/ 255x35 PS4S, and thought I use a 10mm spacer on the rear


Also if i add MPP rotors, which i think only effects a performance, rotor hat is same thickness as my Long Range, is that correct?
Hey gigg,

Please advise what you are lowered with:
Is it -1.5 front camber and -1.8 rear camber or is that rear camber left and right?

If you haven't purchased rear camber arms you need those first and foremost. Wheels later if that does not all fit into the budget. I responded to your DM but ideally would like to see your alignment printout to provide the best guidance. I also am not a fan of the tire size you've chosen and am also curious why a 9" wide wheel. With that said please share what wheel you're looking at.

MPP rotors and the LR rotors with silver hat would not affect your offset requirements. It's pretty much a wash.
 
Finally got the suspension, wheels, and tires installed today.

Rays Versus VT125S
265/40R18
18x9.5 +35 Front
18x9.5 +22 Rear

Thanks again @P3D-R for the recommendation to go with 265’s.

View attachment 885515

My pleasure. Looks great. DM me your alignment or share it here. I'm curious where it ended up. If you haven't done it yet please don't wait too long. You'll kill your tires due to having a lot of toe out up front when you lower it that much.
 
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My pleasure. Looks great. DM me your alignment or share it here. I'm curious where it ended up. If you haven't done it yet please don't wait too long. You'll kill your tires due to having a lot of toe out up front when you lower it that much.
It was set to the stock measurements. I used Megan front and and rear camber arms.

Is there camber setting you’d recommend? I forgot the paper at the shop, but I will be returning tomorrow to have them raise it a bit. I forgot to factor in passengers and added weight, which means it’ll be even lower than it is now. It sure does look good tho!
 
It was set to the stock measurements. I used Megan front and and rear camber arms.

Is there camber setting you’d recommend? I forgot the paper at the shop, but I will be returning tomorrow to have them raise it a bit. I forgot to factor in passengers and added weight, which means it’ll be even lower than it is now. It sure does look good tho!
The tein coilovers settle a lot so keep that in mind as well. You're pretty aggressive in the rear fitment so whatever camber it takes to fit that. The front upper megan arms you really didn't need. There's hardly any camber gain there from the factory when lowering. Personally I'm not a fan of the Megan or Hardrace FUCA design. I would have saved the money and stayed stock. I have a feeling you may need to run more camber in the rear than the front which isn't my favorite thing to do on an AWD car but the wheel fitment will determine all that for you.
 
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