Air Spring Suspension Leak

[Dragetreneren]

Here is one interesting focument from Bilstein: https://www.bilstein.com/int/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/186-TKB-161_Ringbuch_A5_EN_1109_PREVIEW.pdf

 

[JakeP]

Tesla is charging me $2605 to replace both rear air struts, $900 per strut plus $315 in labor per strut, plus $175 in diagnosing the leak location. Is this unreasonable? Seems considerably higher than the 2018 cost of $2K for both at the start of this thread. 2012 S85 with 131,400 miles.

 

[EVTuning]

Tesla is charging me $2605 to replace both rear air struts, $900 per strut plus $315 in labor per strut, plus $175 in diagnosing the leak location. Is this unreasonable? Seems considerably higher than the 2018 cost of $2K for both at the start of this thread. 2012 S85 with 131,400 miles.

You have a Bilstein based system not the Firestone system. 900 a strut is actually really reasonable they used to be double that. The labor sounds excessive it’s maybe 30 mins a side to do.

 

[Araman0]

Last year they charged me closer to the $2000 figure for all said work. I believe they waived the diagnostics fee after the diagnostics work when I agreed to have them do the full replacement of the struts. This was the downtown Seattle SC in my case.

 

[JakeP]

You have a Bilstein based system not the Firestone system. 900 a strut is actually really reasonable they used to be double that. The labor sounds excessive it’s maybe 30 mins a side to do.

Thanks much, this is helpful. I’ve asked them to cut me some relief on the labor, hopefully they will do so.

 

[kev1n]

You have a Bilstein based system not the Firestone system. 900 a strut is actually really reasonable they used to be double that. The labor sounds excessive it’s maybe 30 mins a side to do.

what are the chances that Tesla would let you disable the air suspension completely and go back to standard suspension?

 

[JakeP]

what are the chances that Tesla would let you disable the air suspension completely and go back to standard suspension?

I don’t know if that is even possible, but I can certainly inquire. The loaner they gave me today was a standard suspension car, and the chin it scraped as I pulled into my garage...I suppose I would have to get used to that!

 

[Lukez]

I created the thread, just for clarity... mine cost $1940 plus tax one year ago.
$300 labour, no diagnostic fee, rest for parts.
Also I'm glad i had tesla do the work. The bolts were crazy rusted and the mobile tech had a hell of a time doing it. It took him a long time, like 4 hours if I remember correctly.

 

[kev1n]

I don’t know if that is even possible, but I can certainly inquire. The loaner they gave me today was a standard suspension car, and the chin it scraped as I pulled into my garage...I suppose I would have to get used to that!

i dont see why it isnt possible? you can swap in the standard strut/spring suspension and pull out the tank/compressor/height sensors or just disable it. im curious if tesla would even let you though.

 

[JakeP]

I created the thread, just for clarity... mine cost $1940 plus tax one year ago.
$300 labour, no diagnostic fee, rest for parts.
Also I'm glad i had tesla do the work. The bolts were crazy rusted and the mobile tech had a hell of a time doing it. It took him a long time, like 4 hours if I remember correctly.

Maybe that is why they increased the labor estimate!

 

[Zishan]

You can buy refurbished ones for $700-$800 bucks (some with lifetime warranty) and installation shouldn't be more than $200-300 with alignment at any reputable shop. That is the route I would personally take, but that's me. I've done this with past cars, Mercedes AMG cars with suspension always failed. Going aftermarket saved me thousands and never did I have an issue with any of those replacement parts. I did the labor myself.

 

[JakeP]

You can buy refurbished ones for $700-$800 bucks (some with lifetime warranty) and installation shouldn't be more than $200-300 with alignment at any reputable shop. That is the route I would personally take, but that's me. I've done this with past cars, Mercedes AMG cars with suspension always failed. Going aftermarket saved me thousands and never did I have an issue with any of those replacement parts. I did the labor myself.

Yep discovered this after the fact, and plan to do it for the front struts. Letting Tesla do the rears, I don’t have time to do them myself before a long trek next week from PA to WI. They lowered the labor cost estimate by $275 after I pushed back on the $805, which helps a bit. Their labor rate is $175/hr currently.

 

[elreydetodo]

My 2016.0 Model S is starting to have a problem (or maybe I'm just starting to notice the problem?) that the rear passenger corner lowers down all the way after the car has been sitting idle for about 1.5-2 days. I've also noticed that the car is getting... angry about going over speed bumps, like going over one too fast (> 11 mph) makes the rear suspension pretty unhappy. I'm not sure it's bottoming out, but there's definitely some sort of clunking sound that I don't think I should be hearing while going over a speed bump.

Anyway, I want to try to figure out what exactly is broken or failing, so I want to try to recap what I've understood from this thread.

1) It could be the actual strut leaking air, but that's an uncommon failure. Cost ~$1000 per side.

2) It could be a solenoid stuck, causing it to vent to atmosphere. If that's the case, I don't know why it would be just one corner that's lower though.

3) It could be a leak between the air line leading from the expansion tank to the strut. I may have misinterpreted @EVTuning's meaning there, but this sort of line is the only one I can think of that would result in just one corner sagging. It couldn't be a line leading to the compressor for example, that'd cause the whole suspension to break.

Is there any way to visually inspect those air lines for damage without ripping the frunk apart? Can anyone post some photos of what this bundle looks like or where it's located? I want to try to figure out on my own if there's any damage.

@EVTuning, I'm not far from your shop. If I need to get something fixed or replaced in the air suspension could you help with that? I'd rather send business your way than the service center.

 

[dark cloud]

Is there any way to visually inspect those air lines for damage without ripping the frunk apart?

Ripping the trunk apart is easy. Seriously: pull 3 panels out, pull off the rubber surround, the inner felt, and then 3 bolts; 2-13 mm and 1-8mm and unstitch the frunk light: I can get mine out in under 10 minutes.

 

[EVTuning]

My 2016.0 Model S is starting to have a problem (or maybe I'm just starting to notice the problem?) that the rear passenger corner lowers down all the way after the car has been sitting idle for about 1.5-2 days. I've also noticed that the car is getting... angry about going over speed bumps, like going over one too fast (> 11 mph) makes the rear suspension pretty unhappy. I'm not sure it's bottoming out, but there's definitely some sort of clunking sound that I don't think I should be hearing while going over a speed bump.

Anyway, I want to try to figure out what exactly is broken or failing, so I want to try to recap what I've understood from this thread.

1) It could be the actual strut leaking air, but that's an uncommon failure. Cost ~$1000 per side.
If it was just the strut you should be able to hear a leak or use a soapy solution and see if there are leaks around the fitting or the bag etc.

2) It could be a solenoid stuck, causing it to vent to atmosphere. If that's the case, I don't know why it would be just one corner that's lower though.
The solenoid can activate individual valves at a time. So it's possible only one is stuck.

3) It could be a leak between the air line leading from the expansion tank to the strut. I may have misinterpreted @EVTuning's meaning there, but this sort of line is the only one I can think of that would result in just one corner sagging. It couldn't be a line leading to the compressor for example, that'd cause the whole suspension to break.
This bundle goes down the passenger side of the car. It's behind the wheel well liner in the front passenger wheel well and then it goes down the side of the car inbetween the battery and the car. The most likely places for damage would be in that wheel well or out back going across the subframe and out to the struts.

Is there any way to visually inspect those air lines for damage without ripping the frunk apart? Can anyone post some photos of what this bundle looks like or where it's located? I want to try to figure out on my own if there's any damage.
All of this is going to require disassembly of the car to access where the lines are. None of it is hard, and it is possible with basic hand tools.

@EVTuning, I'm not far from your shop. If I need to get something fixed or replaced in the air suspension could you help with that? I'd rather send business your way than the service center.

You're welcome to schedule and appointment and we can sort out what the issue is.

 

[JakeP]

Could that sound also be your control arms? I have had my lower fronts replaced twice now, probable due to corrosion. And the knuckle joints replaced once as well.

 

[Lukez]

Since I went through this, I would separate the air suspension sagging over time and the clunking.
For the air suspension if it's the struts like it was for me, you will be able to hear the leak after a drive in the rain. Or you can hose down the strut and listen. If you are in a quiet garage you will hear it. Do this while there is pressure on the suspension, don't jack the car up and try to listen to it.

 

[elreydetodo]

I just noticed a new thread that might be interesting for anyone else following this one:
How I fixed my air suspension leak for $1.00

The poster has images showing the hole in his air hose in the frunk and showing how it was wearing up against an adjacent wire harness. I just ordered some epoxy from Amazon and will see tomorrow night if that's my problem.