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Air Suspension error - EAS_w007

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Fuse Box 2 - F36 is the simple fuse for the compressor
Fuse Box 3 - the six black squares shown in the diagram are the relays. The bottom left one is K11 for the compressor. Pin30 of that relay to ground/negative of the battery should read +12-14V. If it’s zero then the 40A F82 fuse that’s located under the air filter by the fireman’s loop is blown. That’s the picture I previously posted.
 
I have just started seeing this error (2015 P85D). It briefly flashes then goes away. The red icon disappears after a couple of cycles but the notifications show clear, with the EAS_w007 as a brief historical note. It doesn't happen on every drive, maybe once a week or so. 2 things that are suspicious as to timing:

1. Just had a SC visit to replace the Nav SD card
2. Just washed the car (hand wash, standard garden hose)

So I'm thinking either they knocked something loose during the visit, or the water got in somewhere it shouldn't have (unlikely). Loose ground?

I don't notice any particular ill effects - no sitting wonky, no unusual running of the compressor etc.

Should I log a ticket with SC?
 
Hi,
Im new to this forum here. Have bought a 2013 S85 with 150k miles about 6 months ago.
Since then put 11k miles on it
So far have replaced
- Brakes (warped front rotors and squeak)
- Tires (I suspect because of air susp leak rear of the car went lower then needed and chewed up the inside of the rear tires, negative camber)
- Headlights (bulbs)

Now, why I'm posting this here.
Since we got the car we had the red suspension message pop up and disapper randomly, I could also hear the "blow off" (compressor discharge ) sound when sitting at lights occasionally.

Recently the red alert came again and my compressor stopped working. It was 19F and we were away from home, so we had to drive. Back of the car sagged almost to the ground, front held up for a while, but by the end of the trip was the same, but we made it.

I pulled the tub and found the common "tee" leak at the Schrader valve tee (to manually fill the tank) that I fixed.

Then I checked for power at the relay (12v hot) and it has power so big fuse is good, 25A (f36) is good too, relay has good impedance (80ohm) so I assume it working, can swap but I don't think it's the problem. I don't think relay gets the power to energize compressor and it's the SAS that doesn't do it, also the solenoid block is not energizing either. I shorted power to comp with a clip and compressor started running, so it works and not seized. (That proves that all fuses are good too)


I manually inflated the tank (through the valve) and even with compressor running (manually) the car DOES NOT LIFT. I pressed different heights but it just sits there and no lift, even with full air tank.....

Car is bottomed out now, almost sitting on the floor.

Last thing left to check is a solenoid (valves) block, I might need to manually run power there....but it's cold as rats here in IL today...and I don't have a garage to work in. (I do have friends garage, but can't drive the car due to it being so low)

Do I need one of the rangers to reset the compressor for me since?

I wish someone would have a working copy of the Toolbox, this should be a very quick procedure.

What do Rangers charge? (I have never taken it to SC or Rangers, done all work myself, I'm obviously out of warranty)
 
Hi,
Im new to this forum here. Have bought a 2013 S85 with 150k miles about 6 months ago.
Since then put 11k miles on it
So far have replaced
- Brakes (warped front rotors and squeak)
- Tires (I suspect because of air susp leak rear of the car went lower then needed and chewed up the inside of the rear tires, negative camber)
- Headlights (bulbs)

Now, why I'm posting this here.
Since we got the car we had the red suspension message pop up and disapper randomly, I could also hear the "blow off" (compressor discharge ) sound when sitting at lights occasionally.

Recently the red alert came again and my compressor stopped working. It was 19F and we were away from home, so we had to drive. Back of the car sagged almost to the ground, front held up for a while, but by the end of the trip was the same, but we made it.

I pulled the tub and found the common "tee" leak at the Schrader valve tee (to manually fill the tank) that I fixed.

Then I checked for power at the relay (12v hot) and it has power so big fuse is good, 25A (f36) is good too, relay has good impedance (80ohm) so I assume it working, can swap but I don't think it's the problem. I don't think relay gets the power to energize compressor and it's the SAS that doesn't do it, also the solenoid block is not energizing either. I shorted power to comp with a clip and compressor started running, so it works and not seized. (That proves that all fuses are good too)


I manually inflated the tank (through the valve) and even with compressor running (manually) the car DOES NOT LIFT. I pressed different heights but it just sits there and no lift, even with full air tank.....

Car is bottomed out now, almost sitting on the floor.

Last thing left to check is a solenoid (valves) block, I might need to manually run power there....but it's cold as rats here in IL today...and I don't have a garage to work in. (I do have friends garage, but can't drive the car due to it being so low)

Do I need one of the rangers to reset the compressor for me since?

I wish someone would have a working copy of the Toolbox, this should be a very quick procedure.

What do Rangers charge? (I have never taken it to SC or Rangers, done all work myself, I'm obviously out of warranty)
I’ll bet the 40A F82 fuse is blown. That fuse box is under the cabin air filter. See my previous posts for pics. It’s a PITA to get to, but worth a try before calling Tesla. Only a few bucks for the MIDI 40A fuse on Amazon.
 
I’ll bet the 40A F82 fuse is blown. That fuse box is under the cabin air filter. See my previous posts for pics. It’s a PITA to get to, but worth a try before calling Tesla. Only a few bucks for the MIDI 40A fuse on Amazon.
Hi,
I did have power at the replay, when I put a paperclip to jump the relay pump worked. Isn't this power coming straight from 40a fuse?
Just checking, trying to make sense of all this.
If I recall correctly you did NOT have power (hot) on relay input, then you replaced midi fuse and got power at relay, correct?
 
Hi,
I did have power at the replay, when I put a paperclip to jump the relay pump worked. Isn't this power coming straight from 40a fuse?
Just checking, trying to make sense of all this.
If I recall correctly you did NOT have power (hot) on relay input, then you replaced midi fuse and got power at relay, correct?
Duh, totally glossed over that statement previously. Sorry about that. I would disconnect the battery at this point and force a hard reset of the SAS computer and see if that helps.
 
Duh, totally glossed over that statement previously. Sorry about that. I would disconnect the battery at this point and force a hard reset of the SAS computer and see if that helps.
My plan is to disconnect hv loop and 12v batt for some time tomorrow.
Looks like it is finally going to warm up a bit....

Made an apt with service, explained the issue and they said they are going to diagnose it remotely. I hope they can just reset the damn thing so the whole system just starts to work again. I have time till Tuesday to mess with it;)
 
My plan is to disconnect hv loop and 12v batt for some time tomorrow.
Looks like it is finally going to warm up a bit....

Made an apt with service, explained the issue and they said they are going to diagnose it remotely. I hope they can just reset the damn thing so the whole system just starts to work again. I have time till Tuesday to mess with it;)

If compressor is blowing off it could be the relay contacts are burned in and sticks (you could check that visually, happens a lot) or the compressor filter is regenerating.

Switching from wheel size in menu (i.e. 19->21) will give a very deep reset without disconnecting anything.

About service mode, you do get the password prompt, can enter the code but doesn't happen anything?
 
If compressor is blowing off it could be the relay contacts are burned in and sticks (you could check that visually, happens a lot) or the compressor filter is regenerating.

Switching from wheel size in menu (i.e. 19->21) will give a very deep reset without disconnecting anything.

About service mode, you do get the password prompt, can enter the code but doesn't happen anything?
Are you talking about the actual compressor relay? (Inside the compressor unit, Reverse etc?) If you talking about K11, It has power on it (if I jump with paperclip it will run the pump) and I swapped it with the other relay to check (and left the other relay on place) fuse f36 is good too.

Did wheel size switchany times already it reboots it, but no luck.
 
Are you talking about the actual compressor relay? (Inside the compressor unit, Reverse etc?) If you talking about K11, It has power on it (if I jump with paperclip it will run the pump) and I swapped it with the other relay to check (and left the other relay on place) fuse f36 is good too.

Did wheel size switchany times already it reboots it, but no luck.
Yes K11 could have burned in contacts, it doesn't explains the red light but it can explain the compressor blowing off.
 
If compressor is blowing off it could be the relay contacts are burned in and sticks (you could check that visually, happens a lot) or the compressor filter is regenerating.

Switching from wheel size in menu (i.e. 19->21) will give a very deep reset without disconnecting anything.

About service mode, you do get the password prompt, can enter the code but doesn't happen anything?
Service mode - yes, I get to the screen, enter the code and nothing happens. I can do it few times in a row and still nothing. Hold the model s, in 5 sec
Yes K11 could have burned in contacts, it doesn't explains the red light but it can explain the compressor blowing off.

Yes K11 could have burned in contacts, it doesn't explains the red light but it can explain the compressor blowing off.
You are correct, this is possibility.
I did check for voltage on coil, and there was none coming in. Also I swapped it with one from the other side and left it in place (now I gotta check what the other relay is responsible for :))