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Alignment is Perfect, STILL Pulling to the Left
- Thread starter Aggmeister2010
- Start date
40k.
Kinda disappointing to have such a failure that early. But given the weight + power, maybe I’m being too critical.
No but depending on which one it was, it could affect thrust angle while accelerating.
So I'm having a similar issue on my brand new MXP. Pulls to the left only during hard acceleration otherwise it's perfectly straight with no pull at static speed. I suspected asymmetrical castor and factory-adjusted toe to compensate for the non straight thrust angle. The problem toe compensation of asymmetrical caster is that under acceleration, the car will start to follow the thrust angle of the caster rather than the toe.
So they checked the alignment and low and behold, the caster was uneven. They did the alignment and it's perfect now.
But guess what? No difference. MXP still pulls to the left during hard acceleration. MXP is brand new with less than 1000 miles, so it can't be a worn bushing.
So they checked the alignment and low and behold, the caster was uneven. They did the alignment and it's perfect now.
But guess what? No difference. MXP still pulls to the left during hard acceleration. MXP is brand new with less than 1000 miles, so it can't be a worn bushing.
Did they change the alignment specs? I thought you wanted a little toe out on the fronts for AWD.
The specs aren't changed but slight toe out (negative) on the front is ideal for efficiency since while at static speed it's a front wheel drive car where the front wheels get pulled forward and toe in at freeway speeds. With a static alignment of 0 total toe, that total toe becomes positive at static freeway speeds.
When I get it back and finally resolve or figure out why it pulls to left, I'll need to seek a third party alignment that will align it exactly to my specs.
Although with the tri motor setup, it could be that it's not a front wheel drive only at constant speed.
Gtech
Active Member
Amazing to see how much persistence you have trying to fix this issue.
Maybe someone in the past didn't tied those bolts on ride height?
Did you already drove with the new control arms?
It's more a case of "How to spend $2k fixing a minor steering issue," lol.
Honestly, the QA paint pen marks on the original parts all lined up, so it doesn't look like they had ever been removed. If I had to guess, it was just early failure from frequent heavy acceleration.
Frustratingly, I've had this problem for a year now - and the only reason I didn't change out all of the suspension components early on was because the Service Center assured me that everything was in good shape, no torn bushings. But that wasn't actually the case. Probably could have saved myself like 4 alignments if I had just looked myself.
Good thing is, now I have all new suspension components except the front uppers, but I'm considering doing those too just to baseline everything.
Last edited:
BostonBurley
Sorry. Bipolar.
I’m happy you found the issue. I’ve been throwing everything at my car, it’s finally just about wrapped up. Nightmare. $3,500 and three months. Feels good to nearly have it done. I’m just leveling manually after lowering it an inch. Then another alignment and should be good.
BostonBurley
Sorry. Bipolar.
I’ve spent $1050 on alignments in 2022.
$400 plus cable to level on Tesla toolbox TeamView (x2) and it never worked. Always returned to one random strut over inflated, ruining the alignment after each leveling.
Then, I manually leveled with my old lowering links. And I aligned using tape measure and toe blocks (one time $200). Aligning that way is not easy but when I took it in for a clean up alignment, I was in the green except front camber, which I hadn’t messed with.
DIY can be a hard experience to learn but costs forced me down that road. Now I kind of like it.
But I drive A LOT and have a spare vehicle when this is disabled. I understand it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, especially with a high income and no time.
$400 plus cable to level on Tesla toolbox TeamView (x2) and it never worked. Always returned to one random strut over inflated, ruining the alignment after each leveling.
Then, I manually leveled with my old lowering links. And I aligned using tape measure and toe blocks (one time $200). Aligning that way is not easy but when I took it in for a clean up alignment, I was in the green except front camber, which I hadn’t messed with.
DIY can be a hard experience to learn but costs forced me down that road. Now I kind of like it.
But I drive A LOT and have a spare vehicle when this is disabled. I understand it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, especially with a high income and no time.
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the "easiest" way to check these bushings? Can this be seen just to access the arms (removing wheel) or they have to be taken off?
You can get a pretty good check by taking the wheel off and pushing on them with a crow bar to see if they move. Anything more than a couple millimeters of movement is probably a torn/worn bushing.
That said, I couldn't really tell how bad mine were until I took them off, so it's not a 100% tell.
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