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Alignment specs attached

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Had the alignment checked today at the SC, thought people might be interested to see the specs which are in the attached pdf.

Front L/R:
Camber: -1.0 - -0.1
Caster: 4.7 - 6.7
Toe: -0.2 - 0.1
Front Total:
Cross camber: -0.3 - 0.3
Cross Caster: -1.0 - 1.0
Total Toe: -0.4 - 0.2

Rear L/R:
Camber: -2.0 - 0.0
Toe: -0.05 - 0.35
Rear Total:
Cross camber: -0.8 - 0.8
Total Toe: 0.1 - 0.7
Thrust Angle: -0.25 - 0.25

Is that RWD or AWD parameters ? long range or other? (different weight)
 
I found a shop to do it but he said if the rear needs aligned he needs 2 to 3 hours to remove the rear under body panels. Is that correct?
That's just freaking pathetic. It takes about 3 minutes. Held on with roughly 8-10 10 mm hex head screws. That's either somebody trying to scam you or somebody who's scary incompetent. Either way you might find a better shop
 
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Something didn’t sound right. I literally cannot find a shop to align this car. They either tell me “they don’t align Tesla” or they appear clueless. Would really appreciate some assistance if anyone knows a good shop in Pittsburgh. Frustrating.
If they're scared, you don't want to go there, anyway. The alignment on these cars is simpler than any BMW/Merc but shop imbeciles don't get it. I had to call about 15 places until I found one that wasn't afraid, and then they did a so-so job. All I can say is keep calling - the place I found specialized in alignments. Something something Frame & Front End ran by some redneck I could barely understand. Next time I'm either going to DIY or find a racing shop that uses strings.
 
Had the same problem. Small town in northern VA. Tried at least 6 places before I found that the local Jeep dealer would do it. Had them do alignment and road force balance on a BMW in the past. Did a really good job even though they managed to set off the alarm. I was in the waiting room and my phone buzzed when the alarm was tripped and I turned it off immediately. They probably wondered how it got cancelled 😯
 
Had a similar experience of calling around trying to find someone to do an alignment on my 2021 LR model 3.

Worst case scenario, find an alignment shop that does Quads and other specialty vehicles as they will tackle anything. Just bring them to alignment specs from teslas website

I had a local shop like that lined up but then another tire shop got back to me and the guy (who had been doing alignments for 35 years) was eager to give it a try

Eventually found the front passenger camber was -1.3 and spec is between -1.0 and -0.1. But front camber is not adjustable although the service manual says the front upper control arm mount can be slid slightly in or out for camber or forward and back for castor but I can’t see it doing much at all and that’s what the tech said

So I booked an appointment at the service Center to find out why it was out of spec and of course they wanted to charge me $280 CDN to do an alignment but I said no I just had one

So they did an inspection and confirmed the camber was out like I said (I brought the alignment form from the other shop) and they also discovered the passenger side front lateral link bushing was worn out

Service person said it doesn’t affect alignment but it would 100% affect the camber. They then said it would be $390 CDN to do an alignment. I once again said no as that’s ridiculous.

Replaced bushing under warranty and I got an alignment booked at the original shop for $100 to see if camber is fixed
 
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Anybody have a printout for alignment specs for even tire wear? I’m lowered and churning through the inner edge of my front tires. Toe out for sure, but wondering what I should have my shop aim for as far as specs go.
 
Anybody have a printout for alignment specs for even tire wear? I’m lowered and churning through the inner edge of my front tires. Toe out for sure, but wondering what I should have my shop aim for as far as specs go.
For long street driving tire life, I’d say -1 to -0.5 degree camber front and rear with zero toe front and rear.

Like most car modifications, trade-offs are made for your preferences and driving style.
 
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For long street driving tire life, I’d say -1 to -0.5 degree camber front and rear with zero toe front and rear.

Like most car modifications, trade-offs are made for your preferences and driving style.
Yeah those are pretty much spot on. You might be able to push it to 1.5 negative camber to get a little sharper handling without too much tire wear penalty but once again close to zero toe as possible. We are fortunate to have a really sophisticated mechanic at Merrimack Auto in Nashua New hampshire. Can highly recommend that shop for anybody North of Boston.
 
Would any of you alignment pros make an changes based on this spec sheet. Car pulls to the right slightly before and after alignment.
 

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Something doesnt add up.
If they did such a poor job with the front camber and rear toe, thurst angle, then how on earth did they adjust front caster (with an OE suspension that requires removing the frunk tub and messing around with strut mount bolts, etc.)

I dont believe they or most other shops who would even touch a Tesla for alignment (including the completely incompetent service centers), go to such lenghts or know front caster and camber is adjustable this way.

So - take it back, have them fix the front camber, even more importantly have them fix the rear toe and finally zero out the thurst angle.

They should be doing all this in car-wash mode (thank me later) and once done but with the car still on the rack, go into service mode and zero out the steering angle adjustment/compensation/offset.

Others can chime in with optimal camber/toe/total toe, etc ranges for OE suspension and daily driver duty vs spirited driving/sharper handling vs becauseracecar specs.