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All New Tesla Charger

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How does one change the memorized charge amp car location? I just changed out my GEWATTS 40amp charger to the latest Tesla unit. Question , i have the requirements for the 48amp charge and it will not change the setting. Dip switches correctly set at dial at the #9 spot, correct 6 wire and 60amp breaker, still 40amp based on location it says
 

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How does one change the memorized charge amp car location? I just changed out my GEWATTS 40amp charger to the latest Tesla unit. Question , i have the requirements for the 48amp charge and it will not change the setting. Dip switches correctly set at dial at the #9 spot, correct 6 wire and 60amp breaker, still 40amp based on location it says
On the charge screen in the car are you able to manually change the amps, and can you go higher than 40?
 
On the charge screen in the car are you able to manually change the amps, and can you go higher than 40?
Hi, thanks for the reply, yes I did go there but it states that based on the car's current location, hmy ome, that is the setting it remembers. I removed the Wattstation Friday and finalized install Sunday and it still thinks its the 40amp based on the location.
 
Unplug the car. Then “up arrow” to max current in the charge screen. It should go to 40, 48, 72, or 80 depending on the type of car and the configuration purchased.

Does it go above 40? I’m assuming yes...

When plugged in, the car typically reports

“current amps”
———————
“Maximum amps”

If the bottom number, maximum amps” is still 40, then something may be wrong with the charger.


BUT - based on the picture your charger is plugged into a 14-50 outlet. So it should be on a 50a breaker. The max safe current is 40a. That is all the outlet is rated for. If you want higher, the HPWC should be hard wired. (At least I’m assuming that is a 15-50. Higher rated plugs are uncommon in a residential setting)
 
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I will try that, you're probably right, the electrician probably dialed back the unit from the 9 to the 8 because of the 14-50, I had a 50amp breaker and a 60 amp in the box of parts and the 60 is indeed still there. Probably for the better. It's not worth the extra work to get the wires through the stud for the extra 8 amps and have to patch the hole where the outlet was. Thanks for the replies. I am at ease, lol
Now if I can just get my car to recognize it has a pano-roof...sigh....
 
I agree it isn’t worth it for an additional 8 amps. Having the outlet gives a good deal of flexibility too.

BTW - Assuming it really is all 6 ga wiring, it could be connected on the surface via conduit by removing the outlet and mounting a box/faceplate over the opening.
 
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