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Almost a disastrous 1st trip (but it isn’t over)

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Regarding the charging plug itself - it appears that the contacts (both male and female) are silver-plated. This is good, because silver is unusual in that even when tarnished, it still conducts very well, because silver oxide is conductive. When people use their cotton swabs and other things for cleaning, I guess they are cleaning off dust and thin coatings of other contaminants; alcohol and contact cleaner will not remove silver oxide (but this doesn't matter due to its good conductivity).

If, in fact, they are coated in silver, then silver sulfide is created from sulfur in the air. silver sulfide ( Ag2S ) which is black, It is what darkens silverplate cutlery. silver cleaners claim "not to remove any silver" What they remove is silver sulfide so technically they are correct, but misleading since there is silver in silver sulfide..
 
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If, in fact, they are coated in silver, then silver sulfide is created from sulfur in the air. silver sulfide ( Ag2S ) which is black, It is what darkens silverplate cutlery. silver cleaners claim "not to remove any silver" What they remove is silver sulfide so technically they are correct, but misleading since there is silver in silver sulfide..
Excellent, thanks for the correction on that. I guess what I should have said is that silver sulfide is conductive.
 
Excellent, thanks for the correction on that. I guess what I should have said is that silver sulfide is conductive.

Stainless, titanium and aluminum all rely on an oxide layer that is harder than the base metal. The problem with steel is the oxide molecule is larger than the base metal and is soft so it flakes off exposing more fresh metal to oxidize. The chrome and nickel oxide protects the underlying steel in stainless steel.
 
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Stainless, titanium and aluminum all rely on an oxide layer that is harder than the base metal. The problem with steel is the oxide molecule is larger than the base metal and is soft so it flakes off exposing more fresh metal to oxidize. The chrome and nickel oxide protects the underlying steel in stainless steel.
Interesting; I don't know if silver sulfide plays any protective role, but it does mean that if a silver-plated connector (like those in the Tesla charging cable) is grey or black, it does not necessarily mean there is a problem with the connector or its ability to carry current; it is probably a harmless tarnish which you don't need to try to clean off.
 
http://www.te.com/documentation/whitepapers/pdf/Performance_implications_Silver_Myers2009.pdf

The material characteristics that make silver contact finishes function well electrically also contribute to its inherently poor mechanical contact performance. Clean silver’s high coefficient of friction characteristics can lead to relatively high insertion forces and relatively poor durability performance. Silver also does not have the ‘noble’ character of gold. It will readily form surface tarnish films when exposed to some reducible sulfur bearing connector application atmospheres; as well as less common chloride bearing connector environments. Silver tarnish films can appear to be anywhere from tan, to more commonly blue, to black in more severe cases. Typical connector environment field exposure studies of silver plated connectors have shown that the tarnish films that form are predominantly covalently bonded semi-conducting α silver sulfide (Ag2S) and to a lesser extent, small amounts of more insulating and potentially harder to displace silver chloride (AgCl) [1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]. These field generated tarnish films were found to be semi-conductive at ambient temperatures, inherently soft, and relatively easily displaced with contact interface wipe at sufficient normal loads.
 
Are you just here to spread FUD or do you really not know how car charging works? You could literally put the connector in your mouth and the only risk would be from the germs on it.

Yes, I'm here to spread FUD because what I really want most of all in this life is for the value of my brand new $175,000 Model S P100D to plummet. All sarcasm intended.

But seriously, no, I am not here to spread FUD. When I was a child, someone I knew died after being electrocuted. Consequently--and ironically for someone who has owned a Fisker Karma for the past 4 years and now also owns a Tesla--electricity scares the beejeezus out of me. I am not a science guy and would tell you that I don't really have a good grasp of how electricity works. I don't totally understand the difference between amps and volts and watts. I just know that when I plug my car in at night, I find the battery full by the next morning. And the idea of touching the contacts on the supercharger with it's massive power sounds dangerous to me. Apparently, I'm wrong.

I'd be happy to indulge your explanation of why it isn't dangerous. But I'd appreciate it if you would not automatically assume I'm here trolling. A quick look at my posting history should have given you a clue that I was not.
 
Superchargers are safe because the high-voltage connectors are turned off until a car is correctly plugged in. When the car first plugs in, low-voltage messages are sent back and forth to negotiate the desired current and voltage limits. Only after that negotiation does the high-voltage power come on. The HPWC and UMC also have this safety feature, so you are safe plugging your car in while it's raining, accidentally dropping it in a puddle, or letting your kids handle the plugging.
 
Superchargers are safe because the high-voltage connectors are turned off until a car is correctly plugged in. When the car first plugs in, low-voltage messages are sent back and forth to negotiate the desired current and voltage limits. Only after that negotiation does the high-voltage power come on. The HPWC and UMC also have this safety feature, so you are safe plugging your car in while it's raining, accidentally dropping it in a puddle, or letting your kids handle the plugging.

Thanks for that explanation! :)
 
I found that on the P100DL I drove over the weekend that superchargers did take some considerable force (and even a little wriggling in the case of the Memphis one) to get to lock in. The UMC always went in fine the first time, but never wanted to come back OUT. I'm suspecting that the charge port on the car I was driving may have either been bad or not broken in yet.

I did find a stall at the Birmingham charger that flat out refused to lock... Switching to a different stall solved the issue, though.
 
I'm heading to Kitty Hawk in 2 weeks on my first road trip with the family, I'm staying at the Hilton Garden Inn, any good locations you can recommend for me to charge while in the area?
Plugshare is your friend. Someone reports the availability of a wall outlet at the Hilton Garden Inn: PlugShare - Find Electric Vehicle Charging Locations Near You

While only 4mi/hr isn't all that great, it might be enough to keep you going for all the side trips you might do while down there. There appear to be several destination chargers nearby, also.
 
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Plugshare is your friend. Someone reports the availability of a wall outlet at the Hilton Garden Inn: PlugShare - Find Electric Vehicle Charging Locations Near You

While only 4mi/hr isn't all that great, it might be enough to keep you going for all the side trips you might do while down there. There appear to be several destination chargers nearby, also.
I didn't see that when I looked at the PlugShare app...because I was filtering out 110 outlets, Thanks!
 
As a long time owner, and talking to lots of tesla people, the charge cables can sometimes be on the wrong side of a tolerance stackup and be stiff. The easiest method, on the cars that were the hardest to plug in, using UMC, HPC and Superchargers were to align the plug, and then just firmly shove it in. We joke about using your hips, but it is actually easier that way. Model X and 3 might be different due to the height of the chargeport. Just hold the cable with both hands, tuck your elbows into your body, and then use your body weight to firmly insert the connector. Don't worry, you wont hurt it. :)

The supercharger does monitor the temperature of the charge handle as it charges. If you feel it get hot, then it might be limiting charge to account for that. This is common as any added resistance to the connector creates heat. And that resistance can change from different insertions. So, one quick test is to stop charging an replug it in. If nothing changes, then the contacts are probably at their best.

I have used charge connectors that were dropped by other users, or have sat in mud etc. Not knowing this, I have . felt that super gritty connection when plugging in. I have yet to have any problems supercharging.

Also, the Supercharging cabinets are made up of lots of the same chargers that are in Model S/X. This scale has helped keep the superchargers costs down, but has created the same redundancy that the car battery has. If a cell fails, the rest of the cells in parallel can still operate and keep working. If a charger in the supercharger fails, the suoercharger will still work with a lower output. This is also another reason why a charger might not put out full current.
 
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