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Alpine Carplay ILX-007 impressions and install for the DIYer...

Discussion in 'Roadster: Technical' started by 7racer, Jan 3, 2015.

  1. 7racer

    7racer Member

    Joined:
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    Finally got it all buttoned up and working from the continuation of this thread:
    Alpine Carplay ilx-007 is available

    there also have been some reviews already showing up on the web:
    Hands-On With Alpine's iLX-007 In-Dash CarPlay Entertainment System - Mac Rumors

    Alpine CarPlay Car Stereo Revealed iLX-007 - Car Stereo Reviews s

    Overall I would give it a 8/10. I really like it but wish there was a bit more and that the roadster wasn't so loud to use Siri easier.

    Pros:
    1. Integrates well with the iPhone (obviously)
    2. Maps is great and navigating and seeing the display is first rate! Telling siri where you want to go instead of typing is FAST!
    3. iTunes is also perfect! Just like navigating on the phone, you can pick and choose songs, genres, iTunes radio, etc. You can also add songs on the iTunes radio to your wishlist.
    4. Siri with iTunes is even better. Sometimes I want to listen to a song, but it's too hard to find it in my library while driving. No problem, just ask Siri to play the song and bam! Playing
    5. Text msg and email work pretty well too! I have Siri read them and have replied even while driving (though I am typically shouting at speeds >50mph)
    6. The physical Siri button on the unit is SUPER helpful
    7. The sound is pretty impressive! Much better than the stock unit. This surprised me as I was only looking for a functionality upgrade.

    Cons:
    1. the maps app doesn't use pinch to zoom...you don't need it 90% of the time but still...
    2. the button to get out the Carplay software into the Alpine is a bit annoying, as it's only used to get to the radio or change settings. Would rather that have been the apple "home" button
    3. the phone asked you to unlock it each time you connect....becomes kinda annoying
    4. Wish the screen was a bit more high res and contrasty...
    5. There isn't much lag that I can tell, but sometimes, I hit an button and it takes a while to recognize.
    6. The virtual buttons to change the volume is super small, with the install and front fascia on the roadster, it makes it hard to change, but the auto volume works well that I found that I didn't need to play with it much.


    All and all, I really like the upgrade. I was just using the stock system to stream via bluetooth anyways and never used the built in Nav and got rid of Sirus/XM long ago

    for it to easily finds songs, play emails and text and a nice working updating nav has been great! Well worth the upgrade!
     
  2. dsm363

    dsm363 Roadster + Sig Model S

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    Thank you for the excellent review.
     
  3. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    Now to the install:

    What you will need to buy:

    Alpine ILX-007 ~$599.99 got mine from Alpine CarPlay Car Stereo Revealed iLX-007 - Car Stereo Reviews s
    Universal installation kit ~$33.88 Amazon.com : Pioneer ADTVA133 2 Din Installation Kit : Vehicle Electronics Accessories : Car Electronics
    Alpine HCE-C115 ~142.15 to get the stock reverse camera to work Amazon.com : Alpine HCE-C115 Rear View Camera : Automotive Electronic Security Products : Car Electronics
    Microbypass ~$15.61 this allows you to change settings use the onscreen keyboard etc by tricking the unit that the brake is on, this company Microbypass is great!
    Amazon.com : MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Alpine : Vehicle Audio Video Accessories And Parts : Car Electronics
    Airbag clips ~$3.36 need 4 of these to replace the clips from removing the airbag. (so about $18 total, I bought 5)


    I would say for a DIYer, the install is about a 3/10. It's not hard at all, just have to remove a lot of screws.

    What I found out while installing is that the new ILX-007 doesn't fit in the same sleeve that the stock Alpine is in. But to remove the sleeve, you have to remove the dash. Also, with the dash removed, it's about the only way to route cables easily. But to remove the dash, you have to break the clips on the airbag cover.....

    I would say that if you had all the items, you could knock out the install in an afternoon *but need to dremel the stock bezel which depending on your equipment could take time.

    here is the after:

    The new ILX-007 correctly in place, the mic mounted (I put it here as it's reversible and didn't have to cut anything), and the lightning cable ran thru the center tunnel.

    16001902608_7c3a5c561b_b.jpg
    15990866438_205325df4a_b.jpg
    15992498987_266e643d6d_b.jpg [

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    To remove the dash:

    1. First remove the front fascia of the unit that also covers the vents. There are 4 of those metal push springs. Invariably one will come off and fall behind the space, and the only way to easily retrieve it is with the dash off
    2. remove the speedo cowl and the top and bottom of the steering column covers. These are held by a bunch of philips screws and the top cowl has a piece of velcro on the front end of it. The cowl also has those metal push springs, which some fall behind the unit. Retrieve them when you get the dash off
    3. Next pull the front cover of the airbag off. It is held by 2 straps that will let it dangle. You will see the plastic screws that are designed to break and need replaced.
    4. The reason you want to remove these pieces first is that the side pieces that need removed has a lip that fits under these pieces, you can pry the side pieces out and leave these in, but it's harder and more nerve racking as you don't want to break anything.
    5. To remove the side pieces (where the trunk release and headlights are, and fuse panel on the other side), first pull up on the side sills, only held on by velcro (its stuck tight so use constant prying force to work the velcro up).
    6. Once the side sills are away, remove the philips screws and two allen screws on each of the panels to remove the inset panel of the headlight and fuse box)

    15558490683_02c6fed466_b.jpg
    15558491263_c7e7179b62_b.jpg

    7. On the drivers side, the back of the unit has the plugs to unplug the headlight switch, dimmer switch, and trunk release. **don't pull the knobs out! not needed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    8. Once the screws are all removed from the side pieces, pull out on the pieces and they should come out easily (also held in by some of those metal push springs)
    9. Once this is removed, you will see the screws on the top (I think 4 philips and one allen) that need removed to remove the dash.

    16178283245_2e77bfed9c_b.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    10. Once the screws are removed, unclip the two speakers, lift up and out on the dash and it all comes out. For those anal retentive types, its a good time to leather treat the whole dash easily!!!!:smile:

    16152485436_5a1fc1600f_b.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    11. There will be two screws that hold the stock sleeve in place, remove those and remove the sleeve.
    15555921654_19975330fc_b.jpg

    12. Once the sleeve is removed, you remove the metal part from the plastic part by just pushing down on the bent metal pieces and slide it off.
    15558495013_4ed8725116_b.jpg
    15992230329_6b1bc1e56c_b.jpg

    13. Now you take the pioneer universal sleeve and put that in the plastic piece. I did need to file the plastic piece by hand just a bit as the fit was tight...but it only took about 5 mins
    15555924254_3d8fa3ee40_b.jpg
    15990980260_ce3e286c12_b.jpg

    14. Screw on the new universal mounting rails onto the new Alpine ILX-007 and you can tell it slides in easily to the new sleeve!
    15555925794_bf516ea4c0_b.jpg
    15992493177_a201b457d3_b.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    Now to the wiring:

    15. as you can see from the wiring diagram of the old unit versus the new ILX, that it's all essentially the same. There are only 2 wires that are different. Wire 2 and wire 3.
    15a. Wire 2 on the new unit is the reverse wire. When you remove the stock harness you will easily see an orange wire that is labeled reverse. I cut this wire and then cut the stock harness (about 1-2 inches from the plug to give me room) and soldered the wires together. The harness side of the stock wire I just covered with some electrical tape.
    15b. Wire 3 which is the "foot parking" isn't need, so I cut that (again leave a couple inches incase you want to splice it back easily)
     

    Attached Files:

  4. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    #4 7racer, Jan 3, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
    16. Wiring the adapter box for the reverse camera is easy. You just splice into the ground (wire 8) and power (ACC, wire 1). I used those simple make a circuit things to connect a wire to a continuous wire.

    16176421081_747e00e76e_b.jpg

    17. I double sided taped the reverse camera adapter box to the back of the shelf where the stereo fit, with the new head unit being so much shorter there was plenty of space. Plus, it lays all the wires down so none are pointing up.
    18. Finally thing to splice is the Microbypass kit. MicroBypass.com The Best Automatic Video In Motion Brake Bypass On The Web! (Powered by CubeCart) I didn't install it correctly the first time but after some GREAT support from them got it hooked up easily. This is in place of that big unit that was used to bypass in the other review, and allows access to the keyboard, settings etc..
    18a. there are four wires, you only will use 3 of them.
    18b. connect the black micro bypass to the harness black ground wire (wire 8), you already connected the ground for the reverse camera so I just used another one of he create a connection thingies and attached it there.
    18c. connect the blue white wire on the bypass to wire 10 (remote turn on)
    18d. CUT wire 11 on the harness (give yourself about 1-2 inches) and splice in the yellow blue wire to the radio/plug side of the cut wire. I soldered this in place. This is the part I initially messed up as I just spliced it into the wire. I didn't know to cut the wire so it sends the bypass signal from the parking brake.

    15990973820_cda0bcbb99_b.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    that's about it for the wiring! Now to routing the mic and the USB cable. I did try the stock USB cable and plugged my lightning connector to it and the new ILX didn't recognize it. I read somewhere were the stock USB does some duel function. I didn't pull all of it out, just ran the new cable. In regards to the mic, I think that would work but figured would use the newer mic.



    19. Routing the cables is a HUGE PITA!!!! Even with the dash up, you see there isn't an easily passage from the top of the dash to down below. It's like one solid piece of aluminum!! The openings you do see go somewhere else that isn't useful!!! I did find one opening here that gives you into the space below and to the right of the steering column. If you run a bent firm guide wire, you can see the opening...it's not big, but I ran the USB and mic cable thru it. **kinda the center of the picture**
    15555930324_884e299bc0_b.jpg

    20. I did end up routing the USB thru the center tunnel. Once you have access to the space for the wire to come thru on the right side of the steering column you can pass it to the middle space then down thru the column. To remove the column is easy. Just remove the two allen screws that hold the seat heater buttons.
    21. Remove the two 6mm allen that are hidden on the front of the center column and are a bit of a PITA to get to
    15990982370_332188895b_b.jpg
    15990983270_58b8582f48_b.jpg
    22. I think there is a big philips screw that hold the cup holder and lower plastic piece where you will see the stock USB cable underneath. I just tucked the stock one away and ran the new cable along the same path.
    23. That's really about it. Just reverse the order. Plug the new USB into the ILX, the spliced harness, the radio antenna, the back up camera and mic.
    24. One last "gotcha". When I went to reinstall the very last piece, the CF faceplate, I found that even thought the unit fit thru the opening, the edges of the faceplate hit the inside ridge of the unit that kept it from sitting flush. I ended up going to a friend who had a belt sander to knock off about 1cm of the plastic, then dremel'd the rest to get it to fit. Can see the edge I sanded in this pic
    15990864098_1279745941_b.jpg
     
  5. shrink

    shrink Member

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    Wow - nice job! I thought about doing this myself when I convert from single to double DIN and you've tempted me, but to be safe I'll probably end up hiring someone. Actually, I will hire someone and show them this thread. For my conversion, part of the dash frame will need to be cut and it's best I'm not responsible for that.

    Anyway, what iPhone mount did you end up using? I like the stock placement. I used the Joby mount with double sided mounting tape but it takes up some passenger side leg room. I might end up doing what you did.

    Thanks again for posting this!
     
  6. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    no problem! It really can be a DIY job.

    The mount I got was this one:
    Amazon.com: [Sinjimoru] iPhone Car Charging Mount with Lightning Cable installable on Dashboard and Center Console. Single-handed operating iPhone car mount or iPhone car holder compatible with iPhone 6 / 6 plus / 5 / 5s / 5c . Sinji Car Kit, iPhone Basic Package.: Cell Phones Accessories
     
  7. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    Some more feedback with the unit.

    In stop and go traffic, I have been able to easily answer text back and forth to people. It's a bit slow as Siri ask you, then the brief pause and the Siri "beep" and then you speak. It is safer as I am not looking down at my phone but I probably look like an idiot talking to myself in the car!

    If you have used Siri a lot to dictate, you will be familiar with it. Sometimes it just seems to nail the dictation, sometimes not.
    Also when you get links for pictures that people send or web links, they don't show up (though Siri does read the weblink Tesla Motors Club - Enthusiasts & Owners Forum etc...which is ridiculous)

    I have also used it my my bluetooth earphone to decrease the noise when I get a call. It doesn't hand off to it seamlessly but seems to work. I don't talk much on my phone so will have to report back after more tries, but it definitely works.

    One final thing is that I am trying to become more of a radar power user and using either Waze or Escort Live to track law enforcement. I downloaded Escort Live and have been trying it for free. The downside is that if the app is in the background, it doesn't warn you thru audio (at least on the default settings). Also if the app is in the foreground, it switches the screen on the ILX to the "home" screen, which usually i have my song info displayed.

    I hope Apple keeps improving it. It is still functionally better than my stock unit, but has it's own issues.
     
  8. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    sorry been busy but wanted to post another thing I noticed. I turned OFF the noise cancellation function for the mic and Siri actually recognize my voice better...but for commands and text.

    Not only that, it seems to pic up my words at higher speeds with more wind/road noise.

    FWIW
     
  9. tonym

    tonym New Member

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    noise cancelling



    where is the noise cancelling settings in the ilx007? Does it adhere to the noise cancelling settings in the phone or does it have its own settings in the unit itself?
     
  10. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    Sorry just saw this. It's in the unit itself for the mic connected to the ILX. It's in the hidden menu of the Alpine
     
  11. Chillout

    Chillout Member

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    Hidden menu?
     
  12. 7racer

    7racer Member

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    yep, this is why you need that microbypass kit.

    Same thing with the stock unit and hitting the footbrake and pulling up on the e-brake 3 times.

    I think I wrote how to get into the menu above, but basically with the microbypass, when you enter the settings menu, all items are available to change versus "greyed out" without the microbypass
     

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