Am I being an idiot trying to hold onto my p85dL outside of warranty?

[ResHacker]

Ok right, and I just checked the cost to upgrade to 100kw with my currently in good condition 85kw pack and it’s over $23k. I was thinking it would be in the mid teens or something given the trade in of the new pack. And the reason I was thinking that is because tesla replacement cost for a failed p85dL battery is 21k (I got a quote from then out of curiosity if my pack were to fail today and comes with 4yr warr)

I understand @wk057 tries to setup fair prices and also needs to have some profit, but 23k for the replacement when you leave your old working 85kWh pack there seems insane to me.. I therefore considered those 12kEuro to be my absolute maximum I'm willing to pay for it... But it's up to you afterwards
There's always a possibility to buy some 100 pack ie on Ebay and then sell your old one ...then you can reach similar price for the upgrade I guess...

 

[wk057]

You'll probably never see a 100 upgrade for $12k.

The problem is that Tesla does everything they can to get 100 packs back for refurbishment and reuse, making them scare on the open market. The ones that are available tend to be hit or miss, and we have to account for that in pricing. I'd never buy a Tesla pack off eBay. That's just asking for trouble. The people selling packs on eBay generally have zero clue what they're selling, have no way to comprehensively test, etc. No thanks.

Generally our cost to get a working 100 pack for an upgrade is over 30k. So an upgrade price of around $20k+core that includes labor is kind of a steal for the customer. And we can only do that because our business model allows us to maximize your return on the core pack.

We make basically nothing on upgrades at the prices listed. We cover costs of labor and related overhead, and that's pretty much it.

That said, we usually tell people upfront (much to their surprise) that upgrades are not for everyone, and you're usually better off selling and buying what you want instead. Not always, but usually.

 

[Rocky_H]

I have a 2014 S85 that is at about 99,600 miles, so I have some thoughts.

Yes, probably plan for a battery replacement in the next 5-10 years. And yes, may be a good idea to use the wk057 warranty. @tubaprde You expressed some reluctance at doing that warranty plan because you said YOU would have to ship the car, and that would be a hassle. But that's not really how that would work. You wouldn't have to start from scratch searching to try to find a shipping company and figure out which ones are OK or have decent rates, etc. wk057 ships cars all around the country, so they use car shippers frequently and will take care of that process for you, with that fee just added on that you pay, but don't have the hassle part of it.

And paraphrasing from what's been mentioned by a few people, this thing of people saying it's "cheaper" to blow $50K+ to avoid spending $15K doesn't really make sense.

Besides my 2014 S, we do also have a 2022 Y, and I just really prefer the both screens and extra steering wheel controls and stalk controls on my S, so I would never want to give those up.

And @wk057 and others have mentioned that the replacement cost is higher if the original pack is non working. Yes, but that's only if you are paying the cost out of pocket, that you would experience that cost difference. If you are using the preventative warranty coverage to have them do it, that covers the service of getting the new battery. So paying for the warranty service covers it, regardless of what state your original battery is in in terms of how it failed or how marginally functional it is. (At least that is what I have understood from reading about the warranty plan)

 

[HankLloydRight]

etc. wk057 ships cars all around the country, so they use car shippers frequently and will take care of that process for you, with that fee just added on that you pay, but don't have the hassle part of it.

Yup. Jason arranged the shipping of my car from CT to NC for about $650 each way. I lucked out on one leg as it was a small enclosed box truck. They came to my house to pick it up, and then in the interim while it was being upgraded we moved, and I met the return shipper at a local Lowes parking lot. The entire process was pretty frictionless.

 

[wk057]

You expressed some reluctance at doing that warranty plan because you said YOU would have to ship the car, and that would be a hassle. But that's not really how that would work. You wouldn't have to start from scratch searching to try to find a shipping company and figure out which ones are OK or have decent rates, etc. wk057 ships cars all around the country, so they use car shippers frequently and will take care of that process for you, with that fee just added on that you pay, but don't have the hassle part of it.

^ This.

Yeah, we work with the carriers directly. You basically just have to tell us where the car is, put it in tow mode if it won't drive, and hand the keys to the hauler at a time/date that works for you. We'll invoice for the transport, you just have to pay that (and return transport if you're not picking up/driving back/etc) before we release the car when it's done at our facility. We try to make it painless. Occasionally it takes some time to get a hauler, especially if the car won't drive at all, but we do that leg work for you. You're, of course, welcome to do it yourself... but it'll likely be way more hassle and much more expensive.

The transport cost is the closest thing to a deductible our service plan has.

And paraphrasing from what's been mentioned by a few people, this thing of people saying it's "cheaper" to blow $50K+ to avoid spending $15K doesn't really make sense.

Once it fails, you're kind of on the hook one way or another. You're either going to have to get the pack replaced in order to be able to sell it for full value, or you're going to take a haircut selling it as-is with the failed pack. Either way, you're not winning once it fails...... unless you have our service plan, that is.

And @wk057 and others have mentioned that the replacement cost is higher if the original pack is non working. Yes, but that's only if you are paying the cost out of pocket, that you would experience that cost difference. If you are using the preventative warranty coverage to have them do it, that covers the service of getting the new battery. So paying for the warranty service covers it, regardless of what state your original battery is in in terms of how it failed or how marginally functional it is. (At least that is what I have understood from reading about the warranty plan)

As long as the battery is functional without errors (including hidden/pending errors) at the time of activation, you're protected in the event of any legitimate failure during the plan term. We're not going to cover shenanigans, of course, like tampering with the pack, acts of God, physical damage to the pack, etc etc, but any regular failure we cover. For the most part we'll handle anything Tesla's normal warranty would have covered.

 

[Rottenapplr]

What’s the price for model 3 battery packs. Crazy $25k for a pack on S. They really discourage your from keeping your car at that rate.

 

[tubaprde]

I have a 2014 S85 that is at about 99,600 miles, so I have some thoughts.

Yes, probably plan for a battery replacement in the next 5-10 years. And yes, may be a good idea to use the wk057 warranty. @tubaprde You expressed some reluctance at doing that warranty plan because you said YOU would have to ship the car, and that would be a hassle. But that's not really how that would work. You wouldn't have to start from scratch searching to try to find a shipping company and figure out which ones are OK or have decent rates, etc. wk057 ships cars all around the country, so they use car shippers frequently and will take care of that process for you, with that fee just added on that you pay, but don't have the hassle part of it.

And paraphrasing from what's been mentioned by a few people, this thing of people saying it's "cheaper" to blow $50K+ to avoid spending $15K doesn't really make sense.

Besides my 2014 S, we do also have a 2022 Y, and I just really prefer the both screens and extra steering wheel controls and stalk controls on my S, so I would never want to give those up.

And @wk057 and others have mentioned that the replacement cost is higher if the original pack is non working. Yes, but that's only if you are paying the cost out of pocket, that you would experience that cost difference. If you are using the preventative warranty coverage to have them do it, that covers the service of getting the new battery. So paying for the warranty service covers it, regardless of what state your original battery is in in terms of how it failed or how marginally functional it is. (At least that is what I have understood from reading about the warranty plan)

I hear what you're saying but not sure where you're getting the $15k number? It's more like 23k. For that price, you'd be close to having enough money to buy a used P100D that has some warranty remaining (sell the p85dl for 43k, +23k on the replacement battery (which is a used product), and have 66k for another car.

For reference- 2019 P100d 21k miles for $69.5k. 21 months left on original and CPO warranty, 4+ years on battery and DU. Inventory | Tesla
-----these tesla used car prices continue to drop!

edit, the cpo above had an accident so not a great comp, however this one for $67.5k does not Inventory | Tesla

 

[Rocky_H]

I hear what you're saying but not sure where you're getting the $15k number? It's more like 23k.

Only if you are insisting on brand new. Plenty of people are getting refurbished replacements for about $12K to $15K from Tesla. And I'm planning to get mine replaced by wk057 for less than even that.

23k. For that price, you'd be close to having enough money to buy a used P100D that has some warranty remaining

I don't see how that pricing works out.

(sell the p85dl for 43k,

I don't think you can get over $30K for that.

+23k on the replacement battery (which is a used product), and have 66k for another car.

I'm not following this. The $23K battery from Tesla is new. It is not a used one. And why are you talking about the sale price of the old car and also the price of a replacement battery with it?? If you're talking about the P85Dl being already a failed battery and needing to get it replaced just to sell it, you would be insane to fork out all of that extra money for a brand new battery instead of a refurbished just to get it sold. But also that's not the comparison. The options you were weighing were about selling off the old car NOW, while the battery still works, to buy a new car. So there is no cost for a replacement battery if you're talking about selling the car. You would get your 30 or 40K or whatever for selling it, and that is not $66K. So that is replacing and buying a car and STILL have to come up with another $20K just to finish buying the new one.

So I'm not following that part.

 

[howardc64]

And I'm planning to get mine replaced by wk057 for less than even that.

Noticed you are in ID and I'm in WA. 057 is in NC. Know what a dead car ( presumably when HV battery dies, will require non drivable car shipping which @wk057 said is much more $) shipping cost is to/from NC?

I'm on MCU1 and also worry the car getting shipping out/back and parked in the sun for weeks resulting in a bubbled screen. My first screen survived a good 6-7 years with no problem parking in garage at home and work. Tesla SC left it parked outside in the sun for 3 days that caused the goo to melt and bubble.

 

[wk057]

Noticed you are in ID and I'm in WA. 057 is in NC. Know what a dead car ( presumably when HV battery dies, will require non drivable car shipping which @wk057 said is much more $) shipping cost is to/from NC?

I'm on MCU1 and also worry the car getting shipping out/back and parked in the sun for weeks resulting in a bubbled screen. My first screen survived a good 6-7 years with no problem parking in garage at home and work. Tesla SC left it parked outside in the sun for 3 days that caused the goo to melt and bubble.

Shipping for inoperable (INOP) vehicles adds about 10-15% usually. It's not insane, but it is more, and does add some lead time depending on location. Fortunately, not needed for the return trip.

As for the screens... it's actually pretty random and doesn't seem to have much to do with heat. In fact, I just replaced my own S instrument cluster over the summer and it's been below 50 daily, and the replacement one has just now started to bubble again. (I also don't have the bezel installed, so I can see the edge where it's just beginning...)

Shipping generally isn't much of an issue as long as you're not the person who just absolutely demands it be picked up that second or otherwise has unreasonable expectations for things. I've actually turned away a handful of people over the years over this. "Hello, we're shooting to get your car picked up before the end of the week. As soon as a carrier has space and route availability, we'll get you more details and put you in touch directly with the carrier to coordinate a time that works for you." "(at 4PM) I need it picked up today, before 9PM." "That's actually not going to be possible." "REEEEEEEEEEEEE".

Truckers are fickle. They're rarely on time, and rarely stick to a schedule at all. So it takes some effort on our end to round up a carrier for each vehicle. But once we lock in a carrier for someone, they'll definitely show up and your car will make it to where it needs to go. Most of them will also work around reasonable pickup/delivery time windows and such with customers as well.

INOP vehicles almost always take a little longer to schedule, especially for further hauls, since they're more hassle for the carrier. Generally they'll have to make it their first or second pickup, depending on the truck type, and usually one of their last dropoffs since they won't be able to shuffle it around like the can with operable cars on a multi-car carrier. So this limits the available spaces for pickup and adds some lead time. But again, once we've got the carrier on board, they'll show up, winch it up, and get it on its way. We occasionally will walk a driver through procedures specific to Teslas, but we usually ask the customer to put the car in tow mode and chock the wheels as soon as possible after a failure since this will make it simpler. Our crew unloads the cars, and we're pretty well versed at this point. Then it's operable for the return trip, so generally no issues there.

 

[howardc64]

Shipping for inoperable (INOP) vehicles adds about 10-15% usually. It's not insane, but it is more, and does add some lead time depending on location. Fortunately, not needed for the return trip.

As for the screens... it's actually pretty random and doesn't seem to have much to do with heat. In fact, I just replaced my own S instrument cluster over the summer and it's been below 50 daily, and the replacement one has just now started to bubble again. (I also don't have the bezel installed, so I can see the edge where it's just beginning...)

Shipping generally isn't much of an issue as long as you're not the person who just absolutely demands it be picked up that second or otherwise has unreasonable expectations for things. I've actually turned away a handful of people over the years over this. "Hello, we're shooting to get your car picked up before the end of the week. As soon as a carrier has space and route availability, we'll get you more details and put you in touch directly with the carrier to coordinate a time that works for you." "(at 4PM) I need it picked up today, before 9PM." "That's actually not going to be possible." "REEEEEEEEEEEEE".

Truckers are fickle. They're rarely on time, and rarely stick to a schedule at all. So it takes some effort on our end to round up a carrier for each vehicle. But once we lock in a carrier for someone, they'll definitely show up and your car will make it to where it needs to go. Most of them will also work around reasonable pickup/delivery time windows and such with customers as well.

INOP vehicles almost always take a little longer to schedule, especially for further hauls, since they're more hassle for the carrier. Generally they'll have to make it their first or second pickup, depending on the truck type, and usually one of their last dropoffs since they won't be able to shuffle it around like the can with operable cars on a multi-car carrier. So this limits the available spaces for pickup and adds some lead time. But again, once we've got the carrier on board, they'll show up, winch it up, and get it on its way. We occasionally will walk a driver through procedures specific to Teslas, but we usually ask the customer to put the car in tow mode and chock the wheels as soon as possible after a failure since this will make it simpler. Our crew unloads the cars, and we're pretty well versed at this point. Then it's operable for the return trip, so generally no issues there.

Thanks for the detailed info @wk057. Very helpful.

MCU1 much more prone to bubble than IC (I guess angle/shade much be at play) But I suppose its easy enough to ship with it pulled (Car still drivable) and stored in car out of the sun.

 

[ResHacker]

The problem is that Tesla does everything they can to get 100 packs back for refurbishment and reuse, making them scare on the open market.

Yes, that explains why there's so little amount of them on the open market nowadays.

I'd never buy a Tesla pack off eBay.

I'd if it would be possible to first diagnose it on a car. Definitely not like "here it lays as it is and take it or not".

Generally our cost to get a working 100 pack for an upgrade is over 30k.

Yes, I respect your pricing and understand it. But when I take into account also price of such vehicle, then it makes me more sense to sell it and buy some 100D or P100D for a reasonable price. I just had the idea of upgrade and found one shop willing to perform it for that nice price, so I went for it.
Apart from that offer there used to be also one shop in Kiev (Ukraine) which used to have those packs for a very nice price, but that's not actual now. So it's also true, it was just a good chance and there's probably no another offer in EU like this one at least for now.

 

[tubaprde]

Only if you are insisting on brand new. Plenty of people are getting refurbished replacements for about $12K to $15K from Tesla. And I'm planning to get mine replaced by wk057 for less than even that.

I don't see how that pricing works out.


I don't think you can get over $30K for that.

I'm not following this. The $23K battery from Tesla is new. It is not a used one. And why are you talking about the sale price of the old car and also the price of a replacement battery with it?? If you're talking about the P85Dl being already a failed battery and needing to get it replaced just to sell it, you would be insane to fork out all of that extra money for a brand new battery instead of a refurbished just to get it sold. But also that's not the comparison. The options you were weighing were about selling off the old car NOW, while the battery still works, to buy a new car. So there is no cost for a replacement battery if you're talking about selling the car. You would get your 30 or 40K or whatever for selling it, and that is not $66K. So that is replacing and buying a car and STILL have to come up with another $20K just to finish buying the new one.

So I'm not following that part.

12 to 15k refurb with warranty? I think they offer 4yrs. What pack for 12 to 15k? I got quote from tesla for an 85 pack and it was over 20k

 

[tubaprde]

Yes, that explains why there's so little amount of them on the open market nowadays.

I'd if it would be possible to first diagnose it on a car. Definitely not like "here it lays as it is and take it or not".

Yes, I respect your pricing and understand it. But when I take into account also price of such vehicle, then it makes me more sense to sell it and buy some 100D or P100D for a reasonable price. I just had the idea of upgrade and found one shop willing to perform it for that nice price, so I went for it.
Apart from that offer there used to be also one shop in Kiev (Ukraine) which used to have those packs for a very nice price, but that's not actual now. So it's also true, it was just a good chance and there's probably no another offer in EU like this one at least for now.

yeah p100d CPO cars are going for sub 70k now with plenty of warranty left.. That also probably means that instead of 45k ish for a p85d recently...it will be more like 37k to 40k.... model s' are dropping real fast

 

[Rocky_H]

I got quote from tesla for an 85 pack and it was over 20k

...for new. I'm not talking about a brand new pack.

12 to 15k refurb with warranty? I think they offer 4yrs. What pack for 12 to 15k?

Yes, I think it is 4 years on the out of pocket replacements. Here are a few forum comments of people who have gotten replacements. It's usually 85 or 90 packs--depends on what they have available on the remanufactured ones.

Time for a new HV Battery

The warranty for a remanufactured battery pack replaced under warranty is the remainder of the original battery warranty. A purchased HV battery from Tesla has a 4 year 50K mile warranty.

teslamotorsclub.com

2013 MS battery failure

So I got the dreaded BMS and GTW error codes on Wednesday. See pic. Tesla had originally replaced the HV battery in 2019 while still under warranty. I actually thought this was good since it happened towards the latter part of the warranty and I would have a new (reman) battery to carry me...

teslamotorsclub.com

350V vs 400V ?

I'm one of those BMS-u029 error code casualties that is waiting in the Tesla Service queue (hopefully by 6 Dec) for a $15k replacement reman HV battery. Here's pic of my current HV battery stating 400V. If the reman battery comes back saying 350V, is that OK? Or should the replacement also be 400V?

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[tubaprde]

...for new. I'm not talking about a brand new pack.

Yes, I think it is 4 years on the out of pocket replacements. Here are a few forum comments of people who have gotten replacements. It's usually 85 or 90 packs--depends on what they have available on the remanufactured ones.

Time for a new HV Battery

The warranty for a remanufactured battery pack replaced under warranty is the remainder of the original battery warranty. A purchased HV battery from Tesla has a 4 year 50K mile warranty.

teslamotorsclub.com

2013 MS battery failure

So I got the dreaded BMS and GTW error codes on Wednesday. See pic. Tesla had originally replaced the HV battery in 2019 while still under warranty. I actually thought this was good since it happened towards the latter part of the warranty and I would have a new (reman) battery to carry me...

teslamotorsclub.com

350V vs 400V ?

I'm one of those BMS-u029 error code casualties that is waiting in the Tesla Service queue (hopefully by 6 Dec) for a $15k replacement reman HV battery. Here's pic of my current HV battery stating 400V. If the reman battery comes back saying 350V, is that OK? Or should the replacement also be 400V?

teslamotorsclub.com

...for new. I'm not talking about a brand new pack.

Yes, I think it is 4 years on the out of pocket replacements. Here are a few forum comments of people who have gotten replacements. It's usually 85 or 90 packs--depends on what they have available on the remanufactured ones.

Time for a new HV Battery

The warranty for a remanufactured battery pack replaced under warranty is the remainder of the original battery warranty. A purchased HV battery from Tesla has a 4 year 50K mile warranty.

teslamotorsclub.com

2013 MS battery failure

So I got the dreaded BMS and GTW error codes on Wednesday. See pic. Tesla had originally replaced the HV battery in 2019 while still under warranty. I actually thought this was good since it happened towards the latter part of the warranty and I would have a new (reman) battery to carry me...

teslamotorsclub.com

350V vs 400V ?

I'm one of those BMS-u029 error code casualties that is waiting in the Tesla Service queue (hopefully by 6 Dec) for a $15k replacement reman HV battery. Here's pic of my current HV battery stating 400V. If the reman battery comes back saying 350V, is that OK? Or should the replacement also be 400V?

teslamotorsclub.com

Ok I’ll look at those but fyi tesla service center quoted me a lot more for just the parts

 

[Rocky_H]

Ok I’ll look at those but fyi tesla service center quoted me a lot more for just the parts

Wow, thanks for showing that invoice. That looks like their prices have come down even more recently. That part number quoted for the battery is not for a remanufactured part. That seems like a new one. To have a new replacement pack for less than $19K now is pretty impressive.

 

[kirkusss]

I would roll the dice and ask for a reman pack replacement as it also comes with the same warranty and we saw you can actually get the new pack instead.

 

[Altes]

83k miles, Dec. 2014 build, perf plus suspension, seemingly strong battery pack (I got 148kW at the super charging station last week).

My situation is somewhat unique. I love my current p85d but the warranty expired last week. It’s been a pretty darn reliable car since I bot used 4 years ago and the battery seems strong. But will it continue to be reliable, for the next 4 to 5yrs?

I put a deposit on a brand new 2023 demo performance model 3 that I could have picked up yesterday (total off msrp was 10k, price was $55,450), but I backed out because my longer term goal is to save money to buy a house. I make enough money now that I won’t qualify for the $7500 off next year. I just felt that given my situation, I shouldn’t be buying a new car and saddling myself with $1000 car payments for 5 years. On the other hand!…, if the p85d starts to break down, it won’t take much before buying the new car makes better sense financially! Like if the battery goes for example, or the drivetrain and a couple other things.

At this point I think I still have time to take it off “final hold” and buy the new car, and sell the old

Thoughts? Thank you

what has repair history been? that should tell you if its a lemon

 

[tubaprde]

what has repair history been? that should tell you if its a lemon

The thread is veering off topic as I decided to keep the car. It really hasn’t given me much problems. Three door handles replaced under warranty driver seat replaced because motor went out under warranty and instrument gauge cluster bubbling covered under warranty also