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I had similar experience to original poster. I am driving a 2017 Tesla Model S at 35k miles under warranty. As I was backing out of my parking spot and cranking my wheel, I head a pop and grinding noise in the front driver side wheel well. I got out for inspection, sounded like I ran over large plastic bottle and was pivoting on it, but observed nothing on the ground and couldn't see anything wrong. I got back in and proceeded forward only for the grinding to resume. I got out to observe again and found that my wheel has caught the back end of my wheel well cover and ripped it off and pulled it forward, still inside the wheel well. A firm tug removed the cover from the well. I still couldn't see the control arm, but I did observe that the wheel was set way back in the rear of the wheel well. I called Tesla Roadside and they came to pick up the vehicle.

Tesla later determined that "outside influence" was at play due to very minor scuff marks under the sides of my bumpers and some small knicks to my battery pack, saying that it would not be covered by my active warranty. The control arm had completely broken off and they wanted to say I was in an accident. I think this is outrageous as there has been a well documented history of control arms failures for this model Tesla. They've lowered the prices on their cars recently, so I guess they are going to cut costs and do anything they can to not fulfill their warranty obligations.

What are my options? I've looked to BBB, but it's very apparent there that Tesla does not care. Submit my complaint to NHTSA? Sue? I've spoken with the service manager, they don't seem to care and says it's out of their hands since I've already paid.
Sorry that this happened to you. I'm proactively replacing all my front control arms before this happens to mine because it seems inevitable. Anyone who has the original A revisions should be doing the same. Just save your receipts and hope that it becomes a recall and you get paid back. That happened to a Nissan I had where I was reimbursed years later for a faulty brake booster issue. I got a good portion of my money back after submitting my claim.
 
Sorry that this happened to you. I'm proactively replacing all my front control arms before this happens to mine because it seems inevitable. Anyone who has the original A revisions should be doing the same. Just save your receipts and hope that it becomes a recall and you get paid back. That happened to a Nissan I had where I was reimbursed years later for a faulty brake booster issue. I got a good portion of my money back after submitting my claim.
Thanks, I'll definitely keep my receipts, but one shouldn't have to replace faulty parts and hope they get re-imbursed down the road. There is something to be said for feeling safe though. I previously drove my car with much more confidence, but if that failure happened when I was on the freeway, I could have been killed (though there isn't evidence this has happened to anybody yet).

I've gone ahead and launched a BBB complaint so far, stating my next steps, but I don't expect they'll be receptive and change anything. I'll follow up with NHTSA complaint and, at this point, I'm going to sue them in small claims court. There is a ton of evidence to support my case and the ~3k in damage is worth my time.
 
Any idea the difference between the first two and third/fourth line arms below?
Tesla said one is straight, other u shaped- but on Febi for example both OEN are listed as compatible, and when I cehck the Lemforder it's compatible as well.
Asking as can get the Lemforder ones for a fair price. Cari is late 2016 P90DL with air suspension. Only the usual front lower is broken but upper is corroded so going to change at least upper and front lower arm, probably the rear lower as well.
1698516675171.png
 
This is the only thing making me nervous about the Cyber Truck. I drive my truck off road all the time under heavy load and towing an off road trailer. Over ten years in my Toyota have broken two coils, due to load / stress on the suspension, and later upgraded from 600 pound per inch springs to 700 pound per inch springs and not had an issue yet. I would love to see the suspension on the CT before buying it. It better be over built or they will have a parking lot full of CT's lining the service bay. Drivers of truck do stupid stuff like overloading, offroading, pushing the limit of the suspension and brakes all the time.
 
Any idea the difference between the first two and third/fourth line arms below?
Tesla said one is straight, other u shaped- but on Febi for example both OEN are listed as compatible, and when I cehck the Lemforder it's compatible as well.
Asking as can get the Lemforder ones for a fair price. Cari is late 2016 P90DL with air suspension. Only the usual front lower is broken but upper is corroded so going to change at least upper and front lower arm, probably the rear lower as well.

Lines 3 and 4 are the same arm...one for left and one for right.
 
Any idea the difference between the first two and third/fourth line arms below?
It seems that the first two are for dual motor vehicles, and the second two are for RWD vehicles. You have a dual motor, so the first two would be the correct parts. From searching the part numbers and looking at pictures it seems like the construction is significantly different, and I think the first two would be significantly stronger.
 
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It seems that the first two are for dual motor vehicles, and the second two are for RWD vehicles. You have a dual motor, so the first two would be the correct parts. From searching the part numbers and looking at pictures it seems like the construction is significantly different, and I think the first two would be significantly stronger.
I suspected this was the case from descriptions- makes it hard when you look at aftermarket parts. Most of them use the first two numbers but also list being compatible with the second two.
Lemforder ( who seem to be accepted as highest quality in general) use the RWD number but when I check compatibility for “P90D” it’s still listed as compatible!!!

I have no interest in using Tesla where I can avoid it now. Having looked at the detail of the fault I now realise now many times I’ve given them money for nothing. On one occasion I even paid for re-alignment as I reported “wheel hitting front of wheel arch liner”

Hence I’d really just like to change all arms and put the best parts on I can find.



Related, for a dual motor, anyone know if there are suspension parts I should just pro-actively change- I think all the SB I’ve seen are just for RWD cars.
 
I suspected this was the case from descriptions- makes it hard when you look at aftermarket parts. Most of them use the first two numbers but also list being compatible with the second two.
Lemforder ( who seem to be accepted as highest quality in general) use the RWD number but when I check compatibility for “P90D” it’s still listed as compatible!!!

I have no interest in using Tesla where I can avoid it now. Having looked at the detail of the fault I now realise now many times I’ve given them money for nothing. On one occasion I even paid for re-alignment as I reported “wheel hitting front of wheel arch liner”

Hence I’d really just like to change all arms and put the best parts on I can find.



Related, for a dual motor, anyone know if there are suspension parts I should just pro-actively change- I think all the SB I’ve seen are just for RWD cars.
I'm hoping we can come up with a definitive list of suspension parts that should be replaced if they are still original. This post might be just that but I'm not sure. As can see from my follow up post on that thread, I'm replacing FR SUSP AFT LINK ASSY (1027351-00-E) and RR SUSP INTEGRAL LINK ASSY PERF PLUS (1021422-00-B), albeit with third party (First Line) parts. I think I'd prefer to be proactive and replace anything else that might fail while I'm at it.
 
6006664-00-C and 6007998-00-C are for RWD cars only

1041570-00-B and 1041575-00-B used to be for dual motor

(1041570-00-A and 1041575-00-A are the ones you don't want)

View attachment 806561

edit: Now I see, they updated the 2021 facelift with newer lower front control arms so you apparently got the newest front lower control arms and the good news is they are interchangeable with the 'old' dual motor

View attachment 806568
Wondering if I should go for 1420341/6-B/C or 1041570-00-B? Any input?

There is an interesting new modification in the 2016-2021 parts catalog not sure if anybody else has seen this:

1707783319113.png


I guess they are pretty aware of the problem with -A parts...
 
Wondering if I should go for 1420341/6-B/C or 1041570-00-B? Any input?

There is an interesting new modification in the 2016-2021 parts catalog not sure if anybody else has seen this:

View attachment 1017779

I guess they are pretty aware of the problem with -A parts...

You should replace both at the same time, with the same part. Just use whatever is in stock, other than -A.
 
Thanks, I'll definitely keep my receipts, but one shouldn't have to replace faulty parts and hope they get re-imbursed down the road. There is something to be said for feeling safe though. I previously drove my car with much more confidence, but if that failure happened when I was on the freeway, I could have been killed (though there isn't evidence this has happened to anybody yet).

I've gone ahead and launched a BBB complaint so far, stating my next steps, but I don't expect they'll be receptive and change anything. I'll follow up with NHTSA complaint and, at this point, I'm going to sue them in small claims court. There is a ton of evidence to support my case and the ~3k in damage is worth my time.

I know I'm replying to an old post but since you are in California you should talk to someone at the California Bureau of Automotive Repair before you take Tesla to small claims court.

The BAR has offices across California and you can go there and talk to someone in person.

After reviewing your complaint, if the BAR sides with you and tells Tesla they should repair your car under warranty but they don't, that will be more ammo for you.

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The Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) mediates and investigates complaints related to automotive repair transactions between auto shops and consumers. If you have concerns about a shop’s work or service and cannot resolve those issues with the shop's management, we encourage you to file a complaint.

BAR has jurisdiction to mediate and investigate complaints involving:

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