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Dec 26, 2018
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TX
After the warranty was "looked into" further, the control arms are now being replaced under warranty. The front driver's coil spring I will pay for (even though my sketchy meter is still going off)... Was told it was leaking and the suspension could not be fixed without it being replaced..? However, the passenger side is fine currently.

The ESA does exclude the coil - so this is easier to swallow and feels like they are doing almost the right thing. The cost is now ~$1,200 with ESA deductible. I asked them to look into rear suspension TSB but not better anything....

Trying to now decide if it's worth keeping the car as the warranty is officially expired. Contemplating just giving it to vroom for the 20k offered... This unpleasant experience hasn't been the first and I'm sorta getting tired of having to get it serviced/fixed every ~3 months.

If you can, I'd have them ONLY replace the warranty items and see if that solves the issue. One step at a time. And that avoids tossing $1k at something that doesnt really feel like it's the cause of the problem.
 
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hpartsch

Member
Aug 6, 2014
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wa
I agree.. I'd hold off from replacing the shock. How can it be that the control arms and the shock are the issue?
I asked that question, he then went to ask the tech, and I was told it was required. I didn't ask additional questions - probably should have, but it's been battle the past 2 days with them and I'm over it. It's all a bit sketchy to me. Seriously considering trading it in and it likely won't be for another Tesla.
 
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Dec 26, 2018
573
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TX
I asked that question, he then went to ask the tech, and I was told it was required. I didn't ask additional questions - probably should have, but it's been battle the past 2 days with them and I'm over it. It's all a bit sketchy to me. Seriously considering trading it in and it likely won't be for another Tesla.

I don't blame you. And yes, it's odd that replacing the *entire* coil and shock assembly is required.....unless it is cracked or severely damaged, I can't imagine why that would matter.

I like my S and the power is fun, but man.....when it needs service, it's a GIANT pain.
 

hpartsch

Member
Aug 6, 2014
637
444
wa
I don't blame you. And yes, it's odd that replacing the *entire* coil and shock assembly is required.....unless it is cracked or severely damaged, I can't imagine why that would matter.

I like my S and the power is fun, but man.....when it needs service, it's a GIANT pain.
Yeah. Submitted it to NHTSA just now and included that detail. I was told the spring actually costs 900 bucks and they are only charging me 63 bucks or so labor. Not sure I believe it - but again, I'm tired of dealing with it/them lieing as it is.
 

Cheburashka

Active Member
Jan 29, 2018
2,440
3,052
Los Gatos, CA
I don't blame you. And yes, it's odd that replacing the *entire* coil and shock assembly is required.....unless it is cracked or severely damaged, I can't imagine why that would matter.

I like my S and the power is fun, but man.....when it needs service, it's a GIANT pain.

Yeah, I can't really see how the control arm can damage the shock unless it's some sort of terminal suspension failure. But at $63 you might as well replace it.

The shock does cost $900. I had an issue with one of mine (it was squeaking) and it was replaced under warranty.

Check your car's alignment when you get it back. After they replaced my shock my alignment was so bad that the car would turn left every time I accelerate.
 
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Dec 26, 2018
573
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Yeah, I can't really see how the control arm can damage the shock unless it's some sort of terminal suspension failure. But at $63 you might as well replace it.

The shock does cost $900. I had an issue with one of mine (it was squeaking) and it was replaced under warranty.

Check your car's alignment when you get it back. After they replaced my shock my alignment was so bad that the car would turn left every time I accelerate.

They should do an alignment as part of the warranty control arm replacement....that's standard procedure. With that said, some of the worst alignments I've ever received have come from the Service Center, so still might be good to have it checked.
 
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R_Stephens

Member
Mar 17, 2019
79
46
minneapolis
Reading through this thread and trying to prepare myself for what I believe to be a bad control arm. Started squawking as I backed out of the drive, and yesterday it got much worse at low speeds. Also creaks when I turn the wheel now. Car is a Model 3 - 2018 LR, and I do believe that I'm still under warranty. The car is almost 4 years old, but only has 11,000 miles on it. This is ridiculous for a car with this few miles. My god.

So, should I be asking them to replace the entire front end if they don't plan to? Or has this gotten enough attention that they should without my asking? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

aerodyne

Active Member
Nov 19, 2018
2,789
2,906
Los Angeles
Reading through this thread and trying to prepare myself for what I believe to be a bad control arm. Started squawking as I backed out of the drive, and yesterday it got much worse at low speeds. Also creaks when I turn the wheel now. Car is a Model 3 - 2018 LR, and I do believe that I'm still under warranty. The car is almost 4 years old, but only has 11,000 miles on it. This is ridiculous for a car with this few miles. My god.

So, should I be asking them to replace the entire front end if they don't plan to? Or has this gotten enough attention that they should without my asking? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Never heard of this problem on M3...
 
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JohnSnowNW

Active Member
Feb 13, 2015
2,654
2,783
Minnesota
Reading through this thread and trying to prepare myself for what I believe to be a bad control arm. Started squawking as I backed out of the drive, and yesterday it got much worse at low speeds. Also creaks when I turn the wheel now. Car is a Model 3 - 2018 LR, and I do believe that I'm still under warranty. The car is almost 4 years old, but only has 11,000 miles on it. This is ridiculous for a car with this few miles. My god.

So, should I be asking them to replace the entire front end if they don't plan to? Or has this gotten enough attention that they should without my asking? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

This is unlikely to be related to the failures posted in this thread. Most likely you have issues with the upper control arm ball joint(s)...and is a relatively common problem on early Model 3s.
 
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Target

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Apr 9, 2018
550
371
Chicago Land
Reading through this thread and trying to prepare myself for what I believe to be a bad control arm. Started squawking as I backed out of the drive, and yesterday it got much worse at low speeds. Also creaks when I turn the wheel now. Car is a Model 3 - 2018 LR, and I do believe that I'm still under warranty. The car is almost 4 years old, but only has 11,000 miles on it. This is ridiculous for a car with this few miles. My god.

So, should I be asking them to replace the entire front end if they don't plan to? Or has this gotten enough attention that they should without my asking? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Upper control arm on the three is made of steel and hasn't had the same issues with cracking as the Aluminum arms on the S. I second the assessment it is a ball joint. I am in the process of obtaining parts to swap mine too. My 2018 M3 LR creaks and squeaks if I so much as wiggle in the drivers seat. It isn't dangerous however let go long enough and tire wear and other potential failures could happen, but not a stop driving the car situation. If you are out of warranty I have read that Tesla charges about $500 to replace a control arm. The job isn't terribly difficult though so if you are a hands on kind of person then that might be an option. I am and I will be doing my own labor.

Edited to add:
Some people have gotten their service advisor to cover it under good will if they are out of warranty as it is such a common failure and in your case, with so few miles, that seems like something they might consider.
 
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emjaymd

Member
Aug 14, 2021
6
2
Devon PA
Yeah. Submitted it to NHTSA just now and included that detail. I was told the spring actually costs 900 bucks and they are only charging me 63 bucks or so labor. Not sure I believe it - but again, I'm tired of dealing with it/them lieing as it is.
My 2017 S 90D is in the shop now. They are telling me the forelink failed from normal wear and tear. I have a cracked piece that fell from the car when the incident occurred. I still have the cracked part and they promised me they would return all replaced parts to me when I pick up the car in a week. I submitted the incident to the NHTSA. Seems like the feds are worthless. I also asked Tesla to inspect all the suspension components to be sure there are no cracks anywhere else.
 

sorka

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2015
8,242
6,014
Merced, CA
My 2017 S 90D is in the shop now. They are telling me the forelink failed from normal wear and tear. I have a cracked piece that fell from the car when the incident occurred. I still have the cracked part and they promised me they would return all replaced parts to me when I pick up the car in a week. I submitted the incident to the NHTSA. Seems like the feds are worthless. I also asked Tesla to inspect all the suspension components to be sure there are no cracks anywhere else.

Did tesla state this in writing that it was due to normal wear and tear???????
 
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Target

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Apr 9, 2018
550
371
Chicago Land
My 2017 S 90D is in the shop now. They are telling me the forelink failed from normal wear and tear. I have a cracked piece that fell from the car when the incident occurred. I still have the cracked part and they promised me they would return all replaced parts to me when I pick up the car in a week. I submitted the incident to the NHTSA. Seems like the feds are worthless. I also asked Tesla to inspect all the suspension components to be sure there are no cracks anywhere else.
Can you post closeup pictures of the surface where the break actually happened?
 

WhiteWi

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Feb 21, 2021
436
179
Somewhere in Universe
My 2017 S 90D is in the shop now. They are telling me the forelink failed from normal wear and tear. I have a cracked piece that fell from the car when the incident occurred. I still have the cracked part and they promised me they would return all replaced parts to me when I pick up the car in a week. I submitted the incident to the NHTSA. Seems like the feds are worthless. I also asked Tesla to inspect all the suspension components to be sure there are no cracks anywhere else.
How many miles on it?
 

aerodyne

Active Member
Nov 19, 2018
2,789
2,906
Los Angeles
How many miles on it?
I'll bet it is mileage independent. Suspect stress corrosion cracking in the short transverse grain direction due to the poor placement of the parting plane in the outboard lug of the forging.


Take close up pics of the fracture faces and send to the NTSB.
 

TSLA Pilot

Active Member
Mar 12, 2013
1,818
2,546
United States
And do NOT attempt to "match" the parts as doing so will likely ruin any microscopic inspection of the material failure.

Be sure to retain the two parts, and package them carefully in case they need to be shipped to NHTSA.
 
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WhiteWi

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Feb 21, 2021
436
179
Somewhere in Universe
I'll bet it is mileage independent. Suspect stress corrosion cracking in the short transverse grain direction due to the poor placement of the parting plane in the outboard lug of the forging.


Take close up pics of the fracture faces and send to the NTSB.
Reason why I asked about mileage bc they claimed it to be normal wear and tear.
 

emjaymd

Member
Aug 14, 2021
6
2
Devon PA
Did tesla state this in writing that it was due to normal wear and tear???????
Yes they did tell me that is was normal wear and tear verbally. They also sent me a message about the broken forelink was because "suspension components are subject to wear and tear by the surrounding environment."
Tesla Repair Message Aug 2021.png
 

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