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Wife was backing down our 1% grade driveway on Tuesday AM to go to work, turn wheels to back onto our side street and "Bang" the drivers side wheel is tilted at some weird angle. She called me out and I found a piece of aluminum with a two fracture points on it. We carefully move the car off the road into our driveway blocking our garage and 3 other cars. I hit the Service App and they tell me that I can't get an appoint until 6 October IN ANOTHER STATE!


I jump in my car and head to the local SC in Tysons and ask for the control arm part, told they can't sell it to me. Then they call someone else and tell me that they can. They bring out the wrong part after I already paid for it.($295)...no returns! I'm like FUK it get the AFT front control link for a 2016 AWD, he returns with the $265 part, doesn't tell me to get the other side as well, so I am headed back to get that tomorrow.

I jack the car up, pull the wheel (I hate these cheap ass acorn crush nuts they use - wasted time removing wheel with nuts they had already stripped- replacing with Gorilla Nuts) remove the wheel liner and a couple of clips from the belly pan (didn't have to remove many as Tesla failed to replace 9 of the clips and two screws at the last service explains the flapping sound on the highway). 22MM bolt released from frame knuckle in about 5 minutes, 21MM bolt at the wheel hub released in another 5 minutes using an T25 Torx to keep the ball joint from spinning.

Done. This could have killed my wife, my 22 year old daughter or me and its a known issue....what if she had been doing 70MPH and slammed into the concert barrier lined highway with no shoulder on the way to work? We got lucky as hell. I am so fukking pissed at Tesla right now. I have come off ramps in this car doing triple digits.... never again...don't trust it anymore.

Headed to the NHTSA site to file a report next...

Hey NHTSA, if you want the part, call me I will FEDEX to you for analysis... this had nothing to do with an impact, you should see the difference in the weight and engineering of the new link... Tesla freaking knows this OEM part from 2016 is an issue... cheap bastards are going to kill someone.

Link to NHTSA and question they will ask:


When describing what happened, try to answer these questions as specifically as possible:

  • What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request?
    • Suspension Component: LH Front Aft Control Link - I will provide the damaged/exploded part via FEDEX to your office
  • How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk?
    • Loss of vehicle control, flying/exploding metal debris from highly torqued part.
  • Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center?
  • Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others?
    • Vehicle Manufacturer could not get the car in for inspection for 3 weeks (in another state), owner is a former mechanic, who acquired massively reengineered part from Tesla and installed himself, documenting damaged Front LH Aft Control Link fracture
  • Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear?
    • Zero warning before part exploded/fractured at 70,736 miles on a MY 2016 Model S.

Here are the pics
just shows how much Tesla Service/Elon Musk cares about cars that have parts that have manufacturing defects,which can cause serious injuries.is yours a P85? a high percentage of P models have subframe failures where the drive unit is mounted to the frame are flanges made out of thin aluminum welded to the aluminum sub frame the torque from the Performance is to much for those flanges they crack off and sometimes the crack continues onto the sub frame. tesla refuses to fix it as "good will".that is a major design flaw. Did you get your emmc upgraded to 64gb under the recall yet? Tesla service tries their hardest to 1 avoid doing it as long as possible 2 try selling you a Lte mcu as replacement to make $ on a recall. There are many more scandalous things tesla does and continues to do.Elon said that eventually the model s will last 1,000,000 miles he first needs to last 100,000 mi
He should uograde all MCU1's to MCU2 on his dime. they were s**t from the start. plus the model S is his flagship car. How much would it cost him? they sale the upgrade for$1500-$2000 so say 50% mark up 300,000 cars had the mcu1 minus 50,000 totaled/salvaged 250k say at $1000 mcu2 cost tesla =250m Elon net worth 200b+. for somebody who wants his cars to last 1m miles his service division needs a major overhaul at the very least. p.s. there is going to be members on here that will vote this down, they either work for Tesla service and/or heavily invested in them.
 
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just shows how much Tesla Service/Elon Musk cares about cars that have parts that have manufacturing defects,which can cause serious injuries.is yours a P85? a high percentage of P models have subframe failures where the drive unit is mounted to the frame are flanges made out of thin aluminum welded to the aluminum sub frame the torque from the Performance is to much for those flanges they crack off and sometimes the crack continues onto the sub frame. tesla refuses to fix it as "good will".that is a major design flaw. Did you get your emmc upgraded to 64gb under the recall yet? Tesla service tries their hardest to 1 avoid doing it as long as possible 2 try selling you a Lte mcu as replacement to make $ on a recall. There are many more scandalous things tesla does and continues to do.Elon said that eventually the model s will last 1,000,000 miles he first needs to last 100,000 mi
He should uograde all MCU1's to MCU2 on his dime. they were s**t from the start. plus the model S is his flagship car. How much would it cost him? they sale the upgrade for$1500-$2000 so say 50% mark up 300,000 cars had the mcu1 minus 50,000 totaled/salvaged 250k say at $1000 mcu2 cost tesla =250m Elon net worth 200b+. for somebody who wants his cars to last 1m miles his service division needs a major overhaul at the very least. p.s. there is going to be members on here that will vote this down, they either work for Tesla service and/or heavily invested in them.
Got a call from service today, the one in another state, because the 3 closer to me are booked, they cancelled the appointment, due to lack of parts for my service ticket, new date for repairs is 19 October.... (glad I grabbed the part and did it myself) keeping the appointment for 9 clips and two screws that they didn't replace last time it was in for service, as well as a prior issue with the front air louvers not opening during Supercharging (2nd appointment for same issue).
I did get the upgraded MCU's after numerous appointments for them the flush the cache, then it would do the same crap a week or two later... didn't get compensated for either replacement. I beginning to bet that the battery day was bullshit and the reason they cancelled the Plaid plus was because either the new battery doesn't work or isn't in production, based on a recent dialog with an former employee, I bet its the former.
 
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Decided to replace mine as PM at 7 years/70k miles. bought fore links, upper control arms and all the matching nuts and bolts. Planning to install right after New Years…

Set me back $1k

They certainly look nice…

E7E33D23-7054-4FD3-9B0F-A8BB2792DA74.jpeg9FF39BDC-E856-4C1A-81D0-CB3D979957C1.jpeg
 
Decided to replace mine as PM at 7 years/70k miles. bought fore links, upper control arms and all the matching nuts and bolts. Planning to install right after New Years…

Set me back $1k

They certainly look nice…

View attachment 747593View attachment 747592
Money well spent.

I had a strange sound a few weeks ago; sounded like 'ping" from the front left side of the car going over a small bump in the road just after leaving the house. Of course thinking of the many situations in this thread, I drove very gingerly, turned the stereo off, and listened further. It didn't happen again, all good. Upon return to the house a quick inspection showed all was fine to the best of my eyes ability to spot cracks. Must have been a piece of ice breaking? Tis the season.

Don't know where your car resides, but how rusty are your A arms? Every February/March I have to clean about 2 pounds of sand out of those nice troughs on the uppers.
 
Decided to replace mine as PM at 7 years/70k miles. bought fore links, upper control arms and all the matching nuts and bolts. Planning to install right after New Years…

They certainly look nice…

Money well spent.

I had a strange sound a few weeks ago; sounded like 'ping" from the front left side of the car going over a small bump in the road just after leaving the house. Of course thinking of the many situations in this thread, I drove very gingerly, turned the stereo off, and listened further. It didn't happen again, all good. Upon return to the house a quick inspection showed all was fine to the best of my eyes ability to spot cracks. Must have been a piece of ice breaking? Tis the season.

Don't know where your car resides, but how rusty are your A arms? Every February/March I have to clean about 2 pounds of sand out of those nice troughs on the uppers.
Yeah. I’m near DC. They definitely salt here. It was about the deductible if things went bad and I had to file a comp. claim. Just decided to do it. I will examine the old ones carefully…
 
Is anyone out there opting for aftermarket parts rather than the Tesla parts? I understand the part may be "revised" but that remains to be seen as to whether it holds up. I found some random ones on RockAuto and found Beck Arnley options as well. JW as I'm looking to replace mine on my X.
 
Is anyone out there opting for aftermarket parts rather than the Tesla parts? I understand the part may be "revised" but that remains to be seen as to whether it holds up. I found some random ones on RockAuto and found Beck Arnley options as well. JW as I'm looking to replace mine on my X.

Nothing wrong with aftermarket parts.

This is the brand that Beck Arnley white labels, might as well go to the source and save $100.

 
Nothing wrong with aftermarket parts.

This is the brand that Beck Arnley white labels, might as well go to the source and save $100.


It appears that this part is properly designed, with the forging parting plane not in the wrong direction in the out board end!
 
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Folks,

I am proactively replacing the fore and aft arms in my car - The fore link that my service center sold me seems to look like the prior version prone to breaking. The part number they sold me at the SC is:

1420346-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, RIGHT HAND205.00
1420341-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, LEFT HAND215.00

But the part number I see folks mentioning is 6006664-00-C

I asked about the "C" version of the part, and was explicitly told:

The B-revision fore links we have are the latest ones available to us. C revision is not in any service center or Warehouse in the country. They are still in development.

I'm confused.....was I sold the wrong part? My car is a P90D if that makes a difference.
 
Folks,

I am proactively replacing the fore and aft arms in my car - The fore link that my service center sold me seems to look like the prior version prone to breaking. The part number they sold me at the SC is:

1420346-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, RIGHT HAND205.00
1420341-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, LEFT HAND215.00

But the part number I see folks mentioning is 6006664-00-C

I asked about the "C" version of the part, and was explicitly told:

The B-revision fore links we have are the latest ones available to us. C revision is not in any service center or Warehouse in the country. They are still in development.

I'm confused.....was I sold the wrong part? My car is a P90D if that makes a difference.

I'm pretty sure if you look up the applicable service bulletin it will have the preferred part number...
 
Folks,

I am proactively replacing the fore and aft arms in my car - The fore link that my service center sold me seems to look like the prior version prone to breaking. The part number they sold me at the SC is:

1420346-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, RIGHT HAND205.00
1420341-00-B - FORE LINK ASSEMBLY, LEFT HAND215.00

But the part number I see folks mentioning is 6006664-00-C

I asked about the "C" version of the part, and was explicitly told:

The B-revision fore links we have are the latest ones available to us. C revision is not in any service center or Warehouse in the country. They are still in development.

I'm confused.....was I sold the wrong part? My car is a P90D if that makes a difference.
I’ll look at the ones I bought and post the part numbers
 
6006664-00-C and 6007998-00-C are for RWD cars only

1041570-00-B and 1041575-00-B used to be for dual motor

(1041570-00-A and 1041575-00-A are the ones you don't want)

20200906_114719.jpg


edit: Now I see, they updated the 2021 facelift with newer lower front control arms so you apparently got the newest front lower control arms and the good news is they are interchangeable with the 'old' dual motor

1653058494960.png
 
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6006664-00-C and 6007998-00-C are for RWD cars only

1041570-00-B and 1041575-00-B used to be for dual motor but not sure what is the difference between the ones you got

(1041570-00-A and 1041575-00-A are the ones you don't want)

Interestingly, it seems like 1420346-00-B and 14203141-00-B seem to have a different inner bushing design than the ~570-B.

Newest Tesla design on the right.

I'm not replacing my upper control arms - they are in fine shape, no need to proactively change those out I don't think.

I'm also not doing anything with the rear suspension right now - I replaced my toe links a few months back and the rear control arms look to be in good shape....plus, I don't think there is a "revised" rear control arm that addresses this issue, right?
 

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The trifecta of new stuff! Steering Rack, Aft Arm, Fore Arm.

The service center did the steering rack because it's a helluva job, but the fore/aft arms were quite easy to do myself. I just put some witness marks on the old cams, replicated that over to the new ones, and put it in place. I'm sure I'll need an alignment, but this is good enough to get it on the road.

Interestingly, my aft arm bolts were already "backward," so it's likely my aft arms have been replaced before. I couldn't notice any jarring issues with any of the parts, but I'm hoping this fixes another annoying issue I've been dealing with as well at the same time.

I attached side-by-sides of the fore and aft arms so folks can compare. Most of the side-by-side pics I've seen in this thread are post-destruction, this one was done preventatively.

Interestingly, the new parts are fairly significantly lighter than the original ones....especially the aft arm.


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