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That’s the whole point. I reached out to NVX and they seem to think the capped amp draw should stay under 100 amps and the VAD1000.1 draws around 86amps. My backup plan is the 750 series but I want to test the limits to see. And yes dual 4ohm setup wired down to 1ohm. I’ve tested using another sub and have no error messages but I haven’t even started aggressive testing yet, that will come over the next few days.
 
Thanks. And I will accept your call out of me being a pretend audiophile and my mp4…have 2500 songs on a USB ripped from source and just couldn’t hear the difference in the car btw lossless and that maxed out mp4. Oh well.

So ok, yes to a subwoofer upgrade. (Not touching the speakers or amp?)

Is there a JL that has consensus? Rough cost? And alas would prob need a shop to install it…

Thx thread
Sorry for going off topic a bit, but it relates to the Bass and SW performance.

What is everyone using as their “source” for music in the Tesla.? Or “tuning” the system?
What is the best quality source?
What quality does Spotify have or streaming in general?

I am still waiting for delivery, so will know soon.

I also have a “preferred” list of songs from an old IPod , mp4 format (Until my last car) and when heard on different car audio,systems over the years will sound different. (But interesting for comparative purposes)

I am curious how that playlist will sound too.

Right now I’m using a combo of XM, Apple Music and streamed content from my phone.
 
If you can't tell then why spend in upgrades? But to each their own. I think most people can easily tell if they listen back to back. Especially in depth of the sound field, and bass fidelity. I have well over 6,000 songs. Hard to tell, exactly, as I rip live albums, and albums where tracks flow seamlessly into each other as ONE giant track, so that the cheap USB player we have won't put gaps in the playback. Most annoying. Fairly extensive collection.
 
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So... while I think the factory premium is decent (not the world beating orgasmic experience some think it is), it lacked serious, impactful bass. Especially without artificially boosting the lowest frequencies on the EQ (whatever frequencies those might be). So, I decided to do something about it, and thought I would share my experience here.

There is a high-end stereo shop in Maryland that did an amazing job, and I highly recommend them. Soundworks, in Millersville, MD did all the work.

I wasn't looking for earth shattering bass that would announce my presence 8 blocks away, but wanted more low end impact, and depth to the sound. The factory 8inch piece of fabric they call a sub simply could not keep up, especially after upgrading my front stage with Light Harmonic drivers.

After 8 months of ownership, I had never once used the storage well in the trunk area for anything. So decided a well done, ported 12-inch driver would work. I'm a fan of JL subs and amps, and went that route in a custom, ported fiberglass enclosure, XD600/1 Amp, and eliminating the factory sub completely.

I am ECSTATIC with the results. Much more volume and fullness to the sub bass. No error codes.

Here's the pics. The Amp board you see was installed where the factory subwoofer used to sit...

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Bad ass. I am jealous! I should have done W7 like that setup!
 
It's a W3, not a W7. In my opinion, W3 is the best all around woofer JL makes. Most installers will tell you the same thing. Great combination of power handling, fidelity, and efficiency. The W7 is a great woofer, but designed for very high power handling, not efficiency. Using a W7 just to enhance bass in the factory system is overkill, again, in my opinion. You need to use too much power, shortening your 12 volt battery life too much. The W6, is another great woofer, but designed originally for very small, sealed enclosures. Also not the most efficient, very power hungry. You can port them, but the response in a ported enclosure is badly compromised. I won't discuss flat woofers here at all. Flat woofers are a massive compromise in every way.

And keep this fact in mind, especially when adding more bass to the factory system and factory amplification. Ohm's law is clear...doubling the power of the amplifier, does NOT double the output. With the same woofer, doubling the power will give you about a 3db gain in output. That's all. So, using high power, in sealed enclosures in a Tesla isn't really worth the added headache of what's going to happen to the 12 volt battery. An efficient, ported box getting 500 watts, will more than likely give you more low bass than two 15's in that tiny sealed enclosure, with 1000 watts. You'll get a lot more midbass that way, but not low bass. Again, this isn't my opinion. It's very easy to model this sort of stuff in any competent bass enclosure programe for yourself. Download something like Winisd for free, before spending thousands more than you need to.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: JonB65
Resurrection of an old thread, just to show off the finished cover board...
 

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So... while I think the factory premium is decent (not the world beating orgasmic experience some think it is), it lacked serious, impactful bass. Especially without artificially boosting the lowest frequencies on the EQ (whatever frequencies those might be). So, I decided to do something about it, and thought I would share my experience here.

There is a high-end stereo shop in Maryland that did an amazing job, and I highly recommend them. Soundworks, in Millersville, MD did all the work.

I wasn't looking for earth shattering bass that would announce my presence 8 blocks away, but wanted more low end impact, and depth to the sound. The factory 8inch piece of fabric they call a sub simply could not keep up, especially after upgrading my front stage with Light Harmonic drivers.

After 8 months of ownership, I had never once used the storage well in the trunk area for anything. So decided a well done, ported 12-inch driver would work. I'm a fan of JL subs and amps, and went that route in a custom, ported fiberglass enclosure, XD600/1 Amp, and eliminating the factory sub completely.

I am ECSTATIC with the results. Much more volume and fullness to the sub bass. No error codes.

Here's the pics. The Amp board you see was installed where the factory subwoofer used to sit...

View attachment 762057View attachment 762058View attachment 762060View attachment 762061View attachment 762062View attachment 762063View attachment 762064View attachment 762065View attachment 762066View attachment 762067
How’s it with battery life?!
 
Not sure what you mean. The 12 volt battery? Is not hooked into there. I'm at 2 years of ownership, and still on the original 12 volt. No error codes or anything.
If you mean does it affect the high voltage battery?? Lol. No. The digital Amp draws less current than the heated seats