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Another stereo thread...

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So... while I think the factory premium is decent (not the world beating orgasmic experience some think it is), it lacked serious, impactful bass. Especially without artificially boosting the lowest frequencies on the EQ (whatever frequencies those might be). So, I decided to do something about it, and thought I would share my experience here.

There is a high-end stereo shop in Maryland that did an amazing job, and I highly recommend them. Soundworks, in Millersville, MD did all the work.

I wasn't looking for earth shattering bass that would announce my presence 8 blocks away, but wanted more low end impact, and depth to the sound. The factory 8inch piece of fabric they call a sub simply could not keep up, especially after upgrading my front stage with Light Harmonic drivers.

After 8 months of ownership, I had never once used the storage well in the trunk area for anything. So decided a well done, ported 12-inch driver would work. I'm a fan of JL subs and amps, and went that route in a custom, ported fiberglass enclosure, XD600/1 Amp, and eliminating the factory sub completely.

I am ECSTATIC with the results. Much more volume and fullness to the sub bass. No error codes.

Here's the pics. The Amp board you see was installed where the factory subwoofer used to sit...

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Holy F that has to put out some good beat. JL audio does not mess around.

The new v11 allows you to adjust the subwoofer input but will never touch the level of response and vibration you’ll get from this.

Nice work by those at the shop. Credit well deserved.
 
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Great looking installation! Love it! I, too, rock a JL Audio (10w6 Sub in a Custom Box) in my 21 MYP. Thing KNOCKS! Love the install on yours though. Nicely done!

Let me know your thoughts on my install. Note, it towards the end of this vid, and doesnt show much as its a downward firing box, and I need to create a trim piece still. WOMP! LOL.

 
Mine sounds great. Full, and as deep as Tesla signal allows. I hate "one note" bass, which is what most downfiring woofers give you. Everything is a trade off. Firing down can give you more output, and "kick", at the cost of overall fidelity.
I'm currently working on different ideas for cover panel...depending on what sounds best. Wide open is pretty good. Using the factory cover, but raised one inch or so, is winning out right now. Need a few days to decide, then we'll make it permanent
 
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Are you asking if I recommend upgrading the sub? Absolutely. Hard for me to reconcile the words "audiophile" and "mp4 320", but this isn't a thread about that. You'll see a huge difference either way.
If your asking about which direction to fire the sub, in all my years of audio tinkering, and being an IAASCA sound judge , I have always found whichever direction gives you free airflow, especially with a ported enclosure, is best. In this case, up.
 
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I did about 4 hours of critical listening last night, and found that wide open was the best covering. The factory cover for the well seals the sub in to a very small airspace above, kind of creating a poorly designed band-pass enclosure, with the air escaping only out of the two small openings in the upper right corners of the well. Obviously, these corners are not tuned ports, so has a negative impact on the phase and time alignment. Next best was using the factory cover on 1.5 inch rubber stoppers. This allows the sound to escape from all edges of the cover, but still chokes off the port, somewhat.

By far the best, most natural sound, was to just let it play directly into the hatch area. So, the cover that we'll create has to be sonically transparent. No problem at all.

Using my test equipment, and pink noise, the 12W3, with a port tuning of 31HZ, is giving me a nice flat response, with a -3dB point of about 34HZ. Not bad at all, considering the factory signal is significantly rolled off on the low end to protect the factory flat 8-inch "woofer". I'm quite pleased. Cover fabrication time.
 
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I had a downfiring sub in my last vehicle and could not get it to sound right with any amount of tuning. Flipped it upside down and fixed the issue. How does yours sound?

Would love a ported box like the OP to hit even lower notes.

My downward firing sub sounds amazing. Everyone that gets into my vehicle is blown away about how hard a 10" knocks. Granted, the sub itself is incredible, so that's half the battle. The amp also makes it another level.

The sub is a JL Audio High Output 10w6 which comes in a ported box, which I initially had in my Model 3's trunk. I sold the 3, and I wanted the sub in the subtrunk, so I had a box made for it. Worked out, so I ran with it. The amp is a JL Audio Xd-600x1. Great little amp that fits perfectly in that small dead area of a Y's trunk area.

I do feel that the sub being in a hatchback, and not a trunk helps in some way too.
 
My downward firing sub sounds amazing. Everyone that gets into my vehicle is blown away about how hard a 10" knocks. Granted, the sub itself is incredible, so that's half the battle. The amp also makes it another level.

The sub is a JL Audio High Output 10w6 which comes in a ported box, which I initially had in my Model 3's trunk. I sold the 3, and I wanted the sub in the subtrunk, so I had a box made for it. Worked out, so I ran with it. The amp is a JL Audio Xd-600x1. Great little amp that fits perfectly in that small dead area of a Y's trunk area.

I do feel that the sub being in a hatchback, and not a trunk helps in some way too.
Porting a W6 woofer is exactly that... high output. The W6 was developed for small sealed enclosures. You can port them, of course, and it's designed to play loud when ported. However. I suggest you model it in a program like bass box, or winisd. You'll see what most audiophiles already know. High output, yes. Amazing sound? Kind of a one note 55HZ thing. But lots of it. LOTS.

So, if your looking for a lot of output, but mostly at one frequency, the ported W6 is fantastic. Some people really like that, and it's ok to like it. Whatever floats your particular boat, there's no "right" or "wrong".

The W3 is a lot smoother and detailed ported, with a much better overall frequency response, but needs a larger enclosure, and handles a little less power. But for simply upgrading the factory bass... it's EASILY more then enough. As I mentioned, everything is pretty much turned all the way down.
 
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