Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Like I said as long as they follow the proper shutdown procedure for the Tesla then it’s the same as any.
pages 1-17 here
I installed mine today, I did the "power off" with the trunk and multiple doors open... The App let me know I left the doors open after a bit, but I did not remove the ground wire as some have stated. I left it plugged in, but it was already fully charged.
Like everyone the mounting crush nut broke, I picked up a "well nut" which is a rubber insert with threads that worked out. Overall it sounds okay, I'm not blown away by any means, but I still need to dial it in more. It's definitely present and does produce some lows that were lacking. I'm coming from an IDQ12 and a 1200watt amp though...
In my 2020 I did not have to remove the whole trunk liner or rear seat backs. The bottom of the rear seat was removed to access the penthouse, I then fed the power wire next to a factory loom to the rear factory sub...
I saw another guy mount his amp and xlca in the same area where the factory amp/sub is which works, but when you put everything back together gets quite snug ..
I used "Shawn15" at checkout and it said it failed but brought the price down to $611 I used PayPal and tax wasn't charged.
Overall would I do it again, probably...
ratcityrain
Member
Good call, forgot to mention that in my post
Before I started I rolled down all 4 windows, opened all 4 doors, the frunk and trunk and left them all open for the entire installation.
Update on my jack nut - the gorilla glue worked like a charm. The jack nut is in their solid so I was able to install the subwoofer yesterday. I played with it a little yesterday and so far I'm happy. I think it can use some more fine tuning, but I'll save that for another day since I have to remove all the interior again.
I would only use a shop if they've actually done the install before (i.e., practiced on some other car) or they've at a very minimum read through most of the threads most self-installers have read.
Our cars don't even have a fuse box so car audio shops that have not worked on these cars could be wasting a lot of time scratching their heads.
D Unit
Member
Looks like TMCGROUP and SHAWN15 don't work anymore. Does anyone else have another discount code that works?
In my fine tuning of this system, I actually unhooked one of the RCA's and had a lot more control/tuning. With both hooked up I constantly would distort the sub with barely any gain or bass boost. I've played with the xlca and amp for more time then I care to admit, but really it was by chance I found this "one off" (pun intended).
Finished putting everything back together today.
Finished putting everything back together today.
Interesting, did you leave the stock sub connected? Sounds like a phase issue to me
Yes as the stock sub puts out just about as much as this setup. I'm almost leaning towards maybe I got a bad sub. It moves a ton of air and definitely puts out more lows, but seriously isn't worth what I paid IMO. I wired the NVX out of phase as others recommended. With only one RCA obviously I'm cutting the input in half and can get just a bit more control out of it. As soon as I would start turning up the gain/bass with both RCAs hooked up, it would start sounding good, but then start popping/distorting the sub... Thinking about maybe switching out the sub for an Image Dynamics IDQ 10. The IDQ is about an inch deeper for mounting and I'd have to trim the cutout opening none of which I should even have to consider after just spending $700 on this setup. I will reach in out to NVX early next week for their thoughts... The sub ohm'd out right at 2.2 ohms so it could really just be the limitations of this $80 sub (which is what I fear)...
They must have both back seats folded down, cause my kit does not perform like this.
Just had my subwoofer installed. First impressions is that it's ok. It does fill the car with bass but dont expect mirrors to shake, feel the air pressure change, or even feel the need for dynamat. Then again my old system was was an 15in XXX with 2k rms. I think if the system was anymore powerful it could lessen the range or overpower the highs. But a properly built enclosure tuned to the cars cabin can still be loud. Maybe the sealed design is focused on sq rather than being loud on certain frequencies. Overall I think the goal of this system is focused on having a clean conservative system.
I would try unplugging the stock sub harness just to try it that way, eliminating any possible phase issues
OMG could it be this dumb?! The speaker grill cover is too small for the excursion. Plus mine had a dent in the bottom corner (thanks FedEx). So same setup only 1 RCA to the amp. XLCA tuned to where the maximize light barely ever flickers.
See photos of in car audio eq and video at the end for my amp settings. Now my license plate needs Dynamat... Can feel the bass and makes every mirror vibrate...I'm happy enough now to forego the IDQ sub for now...
Also appears we have very close to 6" of depth in the box.
Video of sub and amp settings here: New video by Matthew Faust
Note the LPF is turned up to the angle shown, it is not turned all the way down...
See photos of in car audio eq and video at the end for my amp settings. Now my license plate needs Dynamat... Can feel the bass and makes every mirror vibrate...I'm happy enough now to forego the IDQ sub for now...
Also appears we have very close to 6" of depth in the box.
Video of sub and amp settings here: New video by Matthew Faust
Note the LPF is turned up to the angle shown, it is not turned all the way down...
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Adding other photos that didn't upload
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LOL are you serious? I did hear some slapping noise when playing it loud but I assumed it was just reaching its limits. It's so bad if it really does it the grill. That's a lotta boost btw in your settings. Did you install the bass knob?
I did not install the bass knob. I'll have to check, but my bass adjustment (on amp) might be almost all the way down.
@m1xmstr,
I’m not understanding what you’re saying is the issue here? Are You saying with the speaker grill/cover on the cone hits the cover on movement? I.e. not enough depth for woofer throw? And that it works now only with the cover off to allow enough throw? That doesn’t make sense. If that’s the case did you contact NVX for explanation/comment?
Ski
Hey gang, a sound system related question: Tesla says the '21 M3 LR has 14 speakers + 1 subwoofer. Does that mean it has 14, or 15? All other manufacturers include the sub-woofer in the speaker count. Heck, they even count a coaxial speaker as 2, so my guess is the 14 count includes the sub, but rather ask. And finally, any diagram where each speaker is? I'm curious how many in the very front of the dash (at the base of the windshield), since it looks like a giant speaker cover. Thank you.
My grill cover had a dent in it, probably from shipping. I believe the surround was hitting this, but also believe it could just be the case in the overall amount of excursion I see of the woofer itself. I think there are 3 hiccups in this setup. (1) the internal volume of the enclosure seems larger than 1 cubic foot (I did not do the test which is to take a 1x1x1 foot box fill it with styrofoam peanuts and dump it in, but by eyeballing it it's over 1 cubic foot -- Old installer trick FYI I'm old...). (2) This tiny Amp reminds me of the old Soundstream digital motorcycle line. Yeah it puts out, but it's a $100 amp. (3) The sub looks beefy, but I can make it pop and do dumb stuff when I get on the gain and or bass boost. Sure the XLCA puts out something crazy like 9v preouts so any amp is going to be driven... For me, only having 1 RCA hooked up allowed me a lot more fine tuning to the music I like (Rap, Techno, Rock, Country). At the end of the day for all the gear you get this is an okay system. Attached is the grill I removed.
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