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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Mine kinda did, (2020) I had to shift it around some at the bottom and kinda slam it in there. After getting it to line up I had a hell of a time getting the carpet and trim to line up, but eventually got it. I think the plastic piece below the box is what's hanging it up on mine. It's the plastic piece that helps hold the shelf cover (there is one on each side black). On my passenger side I left it out so that I could reach my amp for tinkering... the plastic piece is under the carpet in this photo...
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Does anyone know which wires on the 21 and up sr plus I would tap into for the -,+ left/right wires? I know you're supposed to tap into the front door woofers but I'm not sure which 4 wires those would be. i currently don't have the speaker activation harness but I plan on ordering the hansshow one soon. Thanks in advance.
Wow, so a couple pages back we were talking about NVX's recommendation to set the amp phase to 180 deg (vs. 0 deg like normal). I can say after installing my JL Audio subwoofer, it was sounding pretty good but on some songs sounded a little muddy and even just a hair delayed. I flipped the switch to 180 deg phase and that tightened it up and got rid of the delay! Very interesting! My theory is that by the time the sub goes through the sub floor (mine is installed below facing up), the rear deck and back seat and gets to my ear, it's a little out of phase even though it started in phase at the source. By intentionally putting the sub out of phase with the rest of the speakers, the sound is closer to in-phase by the time it reaches me. Whatever it is, it works! With the OEM sub I had the bass EQ at max (+8) and it still wasn't enough for me. Now I have the bass EQ between -2 and +2 depending on the source. This is with the gain on the amp only at 50%. Definitely worth the investment!
JohnnyEV
Member
Stock sub is more than enough if you drop the back seats lol. My Wife's Y has great bass, but it's also open to the cabin due to the hatch style. As an experiment I dropped the back seats cranked it up and oh my......Thunder. The seal on the trunk and the thickness of the rear seats is really impressive because it muffles the heck out of that sub.
Okay, done. Thanks to the forum and special thanks to @ratcityrain
3 Things in summary:
3 Things in summary:
- Nice Stock Look - snug as a rug.
- Real Bass - Definitely hits the lows we were missing
- "Conservative" - Mirror vibrating bass - No entering bass auto competitions!
I had a neighbor do my install a couple weeks back (thanks Shane!), he did an awesome job. I'm generally very happy with the sound quality. We ended up leaving it in phase with the stock sub after minimal testing; it sounded fine to me and in his experience running out of phase would generally cause a reduction of output due to cancellation. From the post above, it sounds like maybe I should try again running out of phase. Was the increase measured with an SPL meter, or just by ear and the gain dial?
My bigger concern is the steep rolloff of frequencies below ~30Hz. The NVX sub is advertised with a frequency response down to 20Hz. The way the kit is wired (tapping into the original sub's lines), it seems (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that we're feeding the NVX sub a signal that has already been crossed over and had the subsonic filter applied that is designed for the stock 8" ported woofer. I don't know the specs of that sub, but I'd guess Tesla designed it to roll off low frequencies sharply at close to the ~30Hz I noticed.
Has anyone else noticed this, and is there a different way to wire it differently to pass those low frequencies to the NVX sub? Or am I way off base (pun intended
) with how I'm envisioning this working from just looking at the wiring diagrams?
My bigger concern is the steep rolloff of frequencies below ~30Hz. The NVX sub is advertised with a frequency response down to 20Hz. The way the kit is wired (tapping into the original sub's lines), it seems (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that we're feeding the NVX sub a signal that has already been crossed over and had the subsonic filter applied that is designed for the stock 8" ported woofer. I don't know the specs of that sub, but I'd guess Tesla designed it to roll off low frequencies sharply at close to the ~30Hz I noticed.
Has anyone else noticed this, and is there a different way to wire it differently to pass those low frequencies to the NVX sub? Or am I way off base (pun intended
) with how I'm envisioning this working from just looking at the wiring diagrams?I had a neighbor do my install a couple weeks back (thanks Shane!), he did an awesome job. I'm generally very happy with the sound quality. We ended up leaving it in phase with the stock sub after minimal testing; it sounded fine to me and in his experience running out of phase would generally cause a reduction of output due to cancellation. From the post above, it sounds like maybe I should try again running out of phase. Was the increase measured with an SPL meter, or just by ear and the gain dial?
My bigger concern is the steep rolloff of frequencies below ~30Hz. The NVX sub is advertised with a frequency response down to 20Hz. The way the kit is wired (tapping into the original sub's lines), it seems (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that we're feeding the NVX sub a signal that has already been crossed over and had the subsonic filter applied that is designed for the stock 8" ported woofer. I don't know the specs of that sub, but I'd guess Tesla designed it to roll off low frequencies sharply at close to the ~30Hz I noticed.
Has anyone else noticed this, and is there a different way to wire it differently to pass those low frequencies to the NVX sub? Or am I way off base (pun intended
@UCIBtheG I encourage you to read Travis Llado’s extensive review of the M3 sound system at Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing
He goes into great detail with an oscilloscope that shows that there is a signal down to 20 Hz, but you just can’t hear it with the stock subwoofer. I agree with you, even with the NVX it is not easy to hear anything at 20 Hz, I don’t know if that’s false advertising on the subwoofer or if it’s not getting enough power (or space?) to displace significantly as Travis discussed. Maybe some with more knowledge on this topic could comment on Travis’ findings.
Yes I did, although now that I have the bass EQ around zero, I doubt it’s outputting much.
I had a neighbor do my install a couple weeks back (thanks Shane!), he did an awesome job. I'm generally very happy with the sound quality. We ended up leaving it in phase with the stock sub after minimal testing; it sounded fine to me and in his experience running out of phase would generally cause a reduction of output due to cancellation. From the post above, it sounds like maybe I should try again running out of phase. Was the increase measured with an SPL meter, or just by ear and the gain dial?
My bigger concern is the steep rolloff of frequencies below ~30Hz. The NVX sub is advertised with a frequency response down to 20Hz. The way the kit is wired (tapping into the original sub's lines), it seems (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that we're feeding the NVX sub a signal that has already been crossed over and had the subsonic filter applied that is designed for the stock 8" ported woofer. I don't know the specs of that sub, but I'd guess Tesla designed it to roll off low frequencies sharply at close to the ~30Hz I noticed.
Has anyone else noticed this, and is there a different way to wire it differently to pass those low frequencies to the NVX sub? Or am I way off base (pun intended
Note, I didn’t say that running out of phase resulted in more output for me, I said it was cleaner and removed a small delay I was noticing. I’d say output volume was very similar either way.
Thanks yeah; I was wondering if phase conflict could have been contributing to your issue.
This is one of the reasons that I did not keep my stock sub connected. As you mention, I doubt it's adding much.
ratcityrain
Member
Glad to hear you got it installed. It is a great addition to the rest of the system
cdub715
Member
I know im super late to the party... but i had to drill my own M6 rivet nut. Rivet nuts are gold for my set up as i mounted my amp on the rear package rack.
4/13/2021:
Hi! I talked to Nathaniel in sales at NVX. He agreed to extend our group discount for one week only. For anyone that missed the last promotional period, you may now apply discount code TMCGROUP at checkout to receive 10% off!
nvx.com
Hi! I talked to Nathaniel in sales at NVX. He agreed to extend our group discount for one week only. For anyone that missed the last promotional period, you may now apply discount code TMCGROUP at checkout to receive 10% off!
2017 - 2022 Tesla Model 3 Powered BOOST Kit | PBK-TM3-VSW10S2
Our BOOST enclosures were painstakingly designed by our in-house engineers to combat the lack of rich and deep bass commonly associated with the factory sound system. You’ll get to experience bigger and better bass throughout your vehicle.
nvx.com
I'm going to try swapping the sub with a Skar SDR 10 ($90 gamble), it has the same overall cutout diameter and is roughly 1" longer in depth. I wanted to go with a beefier model, but the diameter has to be 10.35" which the SDR model is versus their higher end models. I'll report back after I try it out.
For testing purposes I took my old Fiberglass enclosure from my previous car which has a 12" IDQ (Image Dynamics), it produced almost 1/4 more volume and a lot more deep bass, not surprising as it's a 12 and a $200 sub...
I think I need to go back to the XLCA2 and turn it down some, even though my maximize light really never even flickers I was able to distort the other sub as well... I originally setup everything with a test tone off of a USB stick, but I only stream music from my phone, which is considerably less volume. Anyhow, time to tinker more.
Hopefully this Skar sub can produce a little bit more than the NVX...
Basically, with a rear seat down I get the output I am looking for. I'm not looking for teenager mirror falling off bass, just a lot more than I get with the seats up. I think having a 2020 is also limiting my output because the rear deck is completely closed compared to earlier models that had a vent in between the rear speakers.
I think I need to go back to the XLCA2 and turn it down some, even though my maximize light really never even flickers I was able to distort the other sub as well... I originally setup everything with a test tone off of a USB stick, but I only stream music from my phone, which is considerably less volume. Anyhow, time to tinker more.
Hopefully this Skar sub can produce a little bit more than the NVX...
Basically, with a rear seat down I get the output I am looking for. I'm not looking for teenager mirror falling off bass, just a lot more than I get with the seats up. I think having a 2020 is also limiting my output because the rear deck is completely closed compared to earlier models that had a vent in between the rear speakers.
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