Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio

mduffin

Member
Supporting Member
Jul 23, 2021
29
4
SF Bay Area
Your Remote Cable is connected between the XLCA2 and the VADM1?
i have the silver cable connected between the two units As shown in the wiring diagram and a forum members pic, however I do not have the phone jack cable connected for bass boost.
 

Attachments

  • F1C268AC-F76C-4987-8BC5-D06A11C3398C.jpeg
    F1C268AC-F76C-4987-8BC5-D06A11C3398C.jpeg
    391.4 KB · Views: 61

mduffin

Member
Supporting Member
Jul 23, 2021
29
4
SF Bay Area
Yesterday I completed my install. I would say the "hardest" part was the jack nut. I used a step up drill bit and made micro adjustments, but the hole became just a tad too big. I used gorilla glue to glue it in place, but only time will tell if that worked.

Here is what I did for my installation
1-turned off power from the head unit
2-disconnected negative on battery
3-removed all the interior pieces
4-unplugged oem amp harnesses and removed all electrical tape and tesa tape so that I could install posi-taps farther away from the oem amp
5-installed posi-taps
6-grounded oem amp, XLCA2 and VADM1 to the metal bracket where oem amp was grounded
7-installed fuse holder (w/o the fuse) and ran power cable back to VADM1 with zip ties along oem wire bundle
8-installed power cable onto penthouse (pictured below is how I did it)
9-installed fuse into fuse holder
10-re-connected ground wire at battery
11-tested to make sure everything worked
12-tuned (to the best of my ability)
13-re-installed all the interior pieces
14-tested with a couple songs. Didn't want to do long in my garage so I'll wait to go on a drive to test it more, but so far it sounds good.

I placed both the VADM1 and the XLCA2 next to the oem amp and sub for a easier installation. They both fit and are snug in this location. The only drawback to this is if I wished to do anymore fine tuning, all the interior pieces would have to come out to do that.

I would say start to finish, took me about 4.5 hours. I took my time trying to figure out best location to install the VADM1 and XLCA2 and how to best connect power wire to penthouse.

For those who may ask. I did leave oem sub connected and wired NVX sub out of phase. I played a 50-54hz tone at around 3/4 volume. On the XLCA2, I have the bass threshold dial all the way clockwise. I turned the bass level dial up until the maximized led turned red, then I backed it off until light was no longer on. On the VADM1 I set the LPF around 80hz, subsonic to around 25hz and sens all the way down and if I remember correctly, the boost at mid point.

I am pretty sure it could use some more fine tuning, but I think I got it pretty close. I'll report back later as I listen to it more.
I noticed you tapped into the Tesla wires plugging into the top of the Tesla amp (pre-amp signal) vs the wires plugging into the Tesla sub (shown in NVX video). Why?
 
I noticed you tapped into the Tesla wires plugging into the top of the Tesla amp (pre-amp signal) vs the wires plugging into the Tesla sub (shown in NVX video). Why?
It looks like I did, but I did the same as NVX. Only difference is that I removed the oem tape and loom so that I could tap into the wires lower down on the harness, but I had done it the same way NVX shows in video and the diagrams..
 

Max223

Member
Aug 23, 2021
8
4
Chicago
It looks like I did, but I did the same as NVX. Only difference is that I removed the oem tape and loom so that I could tap into the wires lower down on the harness, but I had done it the same way NVX shows in video and the diagrams..
I just did the install and things are working. The bass is really overwhelming and doesn't sound very crisp. Still trying to get the tuning right.

Which is the correct place to tap the wires for the LOC? I tapped them on the connector plugged into the stock amp right next to the power and ground wires (first image below). Should they be tapped at the ones going into the amp (second picture)? The wires look like they're in the same harness and I don't see any wires coming out of the amp..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7204.jpg
    IMG_7204.jpg
    411.5 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_7205.jpg
    IMG_7205.jpg
    255.1 KB · Views: 52
Did you even read through the thread?
Apparently not lol.

BTW, If any of y'all are in SoCal, DM me if you need help on your installation, happy to help and meet fellow Tesla owners.

Installation should be easy - if you're scared of cutting into OEM wiring, I highly suggest using Posi-Taps. They are expensive but well worth the money if you're looking for the least invasive route.

I also forgot to mention: Please use a >320kbps bit rate 50hz sound file when tuning your sub. I made the rookie mistake and played the 50Hz sound file from my Spotifiy which was 128kbps by default. a big no-no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fossilcreek

Max223

Member
Aug 23, 2021
8
4
Chicago
I just did the install and things are working. The bass is really overwhelming and doesn't sound very crisp. Still trying to get the tuning right.

Which is the correct place to tap the wires for the LOC? I tapped them on the connector plugged into the stock amp right next to the power and ground wires (first image below). Should they be tapped at the ones going into the amp (second picture)? The wires look like they're in the same harness and I don't see any wires coming out of the amp..
I contacted NVX and they said you can splice the speaker wires either at the connector to the factory amp or at the connector to the subwoofer. I followed some of the tuning advice here and it sounds much better now. I also disconnected the stock amp and it sounds great!
 
I contacted NVX and they said you can splice the speaker wires either at the connector to the factory amp or at the connector to the subwoofer. I followed some of the tuning advice here and it sounds much better now. I also disconnected the stock amp and it sounds great!
If you want to include your factory sub rather than disconnecting it, I recommend wiring your NVX sub out of phase with the OEM sub. This means swapping the (+) lead with the (-) lead. Since both subs are on opposite sides of each other, putting them out of phase will help match the signal outputs on both subs better. Thank me later :)
 

Max223

Member
Aug 23, 2021
8
4
Chicago
T
If you want to include your factory sub rather than disconnecting it, I recommend wiring your NVX sub out of phase with the OEM sub. This means swapping the (+) lead with the (-) lead. Since both subs are on opposite sides of each other, putting them out of phase will help match the signal outputs on both subs better. Thank me later :)
Thanks for that tip. I did see a few other people in this thread do the same. I disconnected mine originally when I was trying to tune the sound and isolate the new sun but didn’t feel like opening the trunk panel again to plug it back in haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cdub715
I got a 2019 M3 LR-AWD. The Opening was covered with some pressed paper or so.


I wouldn't want to wait another 2 weeks or more for return and delivery. Think I got it repaired as good as necessary.

Here is my setup placed in the lower trunk space btw. Question: Is it normal that both the XLCA2 and the Amp get really warm even when not listening to any music? Just from being switched on?
does the "sound sensing" feature on the XLCA2 work appropriately? ie, does the XLCA2 and amp turn off when the car goes to sleep? I have an audiocontrol lc2i and it turns on appropriately, but it doesn't turn off until about 30 minutes after i've closed all the doors and the car is "asleep"...
 
does the "sound sensing" feature on the XLCA2 work appropriately? ie, does the XLCA2 and amp turn off when the car goes to sleep? I have an audiocontrol lc2i and it turns on appropriately, but it doesn't turn off until about 30 minutes after i've closed all the doors and the car is "asleep"...
I second this... the XLCA will only turn off when your OEM amp turns off (signal to the remote plug). I've tested this by placing a GoPro in my car and left it on record to get an exact time to when the entire system shuts off/goes to sleep - usually around the 20-30 min mark. There are some 3rd party apps like Tezlab that can force your car to go to deep sleep if preventing phantom drain is what youre going for.

FWIW, I've got a JL Audio amp that gets pretty warm at times, even when the music is at a minimum. I have my amp mounted inverted on the tan-colored metal so that could play a role to why my amp gets excessively warm. Nonetheless, i've been happily bumping for almost a year now with no issues other than the 12V errors. Hope this helps.
 
I second this... the XLCA will only turn off when your OEM amp turns off (signal to the remote plug). I've tested this by placing a GoPro in my car and left it on record to get an exact time to when the entire system shuts off/goes to sleep - usually around the 20-30 min mark. There are some 3rd party apps like Tezlab that can force your car to go to deep sleep if preventing phantom drain is what youre going for.

FWIW, I've got a JL Audio amp that gets pretty warm at times, even when the music is at a minimum. I have my amp mounted inverted on the tan-colored metal so that could play a role to why my amp gets excessively warm. Nonetheless, i've been happily bumping for almost a year now with no issues other than the 12V errors. Hope this helps.
How is your rd500/1? I have the VADM1 but I am looking to add my 12” Stereo Integrety sub which needs more power than the NVX amp can do, so I am looking at either a 500 Watt Audiocontrol or JL audio amp. I have an older JL HD 1200/1 but that is way overkill for the Tesla and would almost surely throw error codes.
 
How is your rd500/1? I have the VADM1 but I am looking to add my 12” Stereo Integrety sub which needs more power than the NVX amp can do, so I am looking at either a 500 Watt Audiocontrol or JL audio amp. I have an older JL HD 1200/1 but that is way overkill for the Tesla and would almost surely throw error codes.
The RD500/1 is great and a huge upgrade to the VMD1 amp. On paper, there's only 180W delta (2ohm) between the two but the sound is way cleaner at loud volumes (I initially bought the kit from NVX then opted to replace the amp with the RD500/1). My main goal was to maximize the bass but not sacrificing any trunk space - wanted it to be as stealth as possible. Tbh, if you don't care about your system being incognito/stealth, i'd save the bones and reuse your already existing HD1200/1 (great amp btw - had it in my land cruiser). You can wire it at 4ohm, port the box, and be bumping 2-3x more bass than mine, but then again, i dont know what your objectives are, just adding my 2 cents.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mixman

Products we're discussing on TMC...

About Us

Formed in 2006, Tesla Motors Club (TMC) was the first independent online Tesla community. Today it remains the largest and most dynamic community of Tesla enthusiasts. Learn more.

Do you value your experience at TMC? Consider becoming a Supporting Member of Tesla Motors Club. As a thank you for your contribution, you'll get nearly no ads in the Community and Groups sections. Additional perks are available depending on the level of contribution. Please visit the Account Upgrades page for more details.


SUPPORT TMC
Top