ratcityrain
Member
I was really hoping for something like this as well so I didn't have to tap the wires.
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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
I was really hoping for something like this as well so I didn't have to tap the wires.
In this process, you widen the hole the sub box will be mounted to with a 7/16" bit then are supposed to install the supplied jack nut into it. The theory is you insert the jacknut, screw it in to pull the back flush with the metal and then back it out. In my case, the entire assembly turned in place. So I tried to jam a pick in there and tighten it down and it got so far, but then freely spun - the thread was stripped and the wings never pulled in. I was able to pop it back out, but this one is dead. Need to source a new jack nut it looks like. In the meantime, if anyone has any tips on getting it to go, it would be much appreciated.
I wonder if the tolerance was a little out in either jacknut being slightly smaller than 7/16 or drill bit being slightly bigger than 7/16 and therefore not tight enough for a good friction fit. Maybe JBWeld could be used to keep the jacknut in place? If not, then probably trip to local hardware store for one size up jacknut.
I somehow messed things up. The music started playing when I opened a door after turning system power off so I left them open while working on the wiring. After hooking up power to the amp, I went ahead and closed and opened the doors and music started playing while I worked on getting wires secured. I got everything hooked up then noticed there was no sound coming from the new woofer. The XLCA2 showed power and when dialing the knobs all the way up, saw base max light come on so backed that down and went up to the amp which had no light. I checked voltage and it was only 1.37V at the penthouse.
Holding the brake in for 30 seconds or even minutes doesn't do anything.
And it is worse. I have messages cycling through:
1. Electrical system power reduced. Non-essential features may be available.
2. Electrical system power reduced. vehicle may shut down unexpectedly.
3. Electrical system backup power is unavailable. Vehicle will consume more energy while idle.
4. Finally: Electrical system is unable to support all features. Use Mobile App to schedule service.
Outside of the obvious of scheduling service and resetting, does anyone have any suggestions to resolve this?
Note that I've disconnected power from both devices and disconnected my 12V and Ground at the sources for the amp.
Holding the brake in for 30 seconds or even minutes doesn't do anything.
And it is worse. I have messages cycling through:
1. Electrical system power reduced. Non-essential features may be available.
2. Electrical system power reduced. vehicle may shut down unexpectedly.
3. Electrical system backup power is unavailable. Vehicle will consume more energy while idle.
4. Finally: Electrical system is unable to support all features. Use Mobile App to schedule service.
Outside of the obvious of scheduling service and resetting, does anyone have any suggestions to resolve this?
Note that I've disconnected power from both devices and disconnected my 12V and Ground at the sources for the amp.
One last update (I'm on mobile and it isn't letting me just edit). I was able to use a lawnmower battery to pop the frunk and the battery was at 7V. I think it may have largely been a coincidence. I also think doing system power down in the menu shouldn't be the only action prior to connecting power. Next time I'll disconnect the ground from the 12V battery as well.
I like the idea of jb weld. It certainly wouldn't go anywhere after being expanded anyway. I ordered a friction wrench from Amazon for $10 and a couple jacknurs from the auto parts store.
By the way, the battery was down to 7 volts and it's been recharged to over 12V now. It is charging again and no error messages are up. Tow is cancelled. I should have disconnected the 12V battery before leaving the doors open all day. System Power Off on the main screen apparently doesn't shut enough down.
not sure what the kit comes with, but these are the best and least invasive taps you can buy.
Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMC5DI...abc_F6NCWADB62CZ52JPQKHA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks to @tlr1000 for this link Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset | Mountain Pass Performance
This afternoon, I went to reconnect everything, but removed the negative terminal from the battery. I measured voltage at the penthouse and it was still ~13 VDC. I opened the contactor connector and it was now 0VDC. Not sure if there was some capacitance in the system maintaining voltage or it is a DC-DC converter to power the penthouse, but I recommend disconnecting ground on the 12V battery and opening this switch as detailed in the link when working on this.
This afternoon, I went to reconnect everything, but removed the negative terminal from the battery. I measured voltage at the penthouse and it was still ~13 VDC. I opened the contactor connector and it was now 0VDC. Not sure if there was some capacitance in the system maintaining voltage or it is a DC-DC converter to power the penthouse, but I recommend disconnecting ground on the 12V battery and opening this switch as detailed in the link when working on this.
You DEFINITELY want to disconnect the 12V battery before you go messing with the penthouse!!
I had issues with the jack nut as well. In hindsight, they make Jack nut inserters on Amazon for not much, I would probably get one of those so you don’t get it stuck and spinning like you and I had.
Eventually I was able to grasp the sides with needle nose pliers and with a big screwdriver back it out and reinsert it, but it was a pain.
Truth be told, the sub pretty much sits in there without the jack nut anyways, but it’s a good idea to have it for security.
ratcityrain
Member
Posi-taps are so great. They are expensive compared to t-taps but for a few extra bucks you get a MUCH better connection that will last forever. And it's 100% reversible if you ever wanted to disconnect it.
Another tip is to wire everything up with the in-line fuse removed, make sure everything is solidly connected, then pop the fuse in last. That way the end of the wires you are working with are guaranteed to be de-energized, even if you don't disconnect the 12V battery.
cdub715
Member
Does anyone know if these come config’d 2 ohms or 4 ohms? I took apart the terminal end of the box and can see multiple jumpers going to both ends so I assume the DVC is wired in parallel so 2 ohms? I also have an electrical engineering degree from UW and ashamed this has been nothing but easy LOL
According to Allyn from NVX, they are 2 ohm. When in there, how did the wiring look? Could you see the physical connections to the speakers through the terminal block?
ratcityrain
Member
It's a dual 4 ohm subwoofer. If wired in parallel it would be 2 ohms or if wired in series it would be 8 ohms so i'm pretty sure they would wire it in parallel to get it at 2 ohms
cdub715
Member
I only took a peep inside. Didn’t take apart the woofer to really know forsure but it def looks like it’s wired in parallel. I’ll have my install done this weekend with the JL amp and report back my findings - my amp runs 500W at 2 ohm (RD500/1)
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