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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio

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Premium audio 2020 M3P. Haven’t had a chance to mess with it yet, I should have a free hour later this evening.

no one wants to share their settings?

I have the crossover set to the highest (since I figure this sub will be better than the stock woofers) and everything else set to middle (amp power, eq boost, etc) and it sounds good to me. It sounded bad before I upped the amp power to mid (I think I was starving the sub)
 
This is what I was afraid of. If they don't include detailed step by step instructions or some sort of wiring harness to bypass existing wiring, I'd be at a loss about what to do. I know my clumsy-clueless self would destroy something. I was hoping there'd at least be instructions like "find the red wire, tap it with this, then connect that, etc."

If there aren't, I'll have to find an installer or skip this. :(

I had no prior experience but I watched a couple generic car amp install videos on YouTube, and a video on the post taps, and had no problems. It’s really just stick this wire in here etc. I’d say watch some vids and see if you think it’s something you can handle
 
Just use posi-taps. Best splicing method I've ever used, and it's completely reversible. Way better than those t-taps that can come loose over time. It's incredible to me that the 12V, GND, and all the signal wires are all right there either under the seat or in the trunk already. 80% of the work of installing a sub in a normal car is running power from the battery (in the engine bay) and tapping the signal lines from the radio and running them all the way through the car to the trunk.

BTW, why is the little space under the seat called the "penthouse"? It's literally a foam block under the seat. LOL

Posi taps or T taps are def the way to go. I did have to purchase a quality crimper.
 
View attachment 639761

Continuous power output is close between these two amps but the Helix does have more output. If running the NVX sub with dual 4 ohms crossovers, the load on the amp is probably 2 ohms so 320w vs 410w (28% more for the Helix) might be enough to trip the power message.

No error messages here with the NVX, had it running for about a month.

They claim their amp typically uses much less than 500W in practice.
 
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For those that have this how much better is it over the stock sub? I feel the stock sub does “fine” with tighter bass but can’t handle anything low. Does this sub make up for it? I know it’s not 2 12’s in a ported box. For the tighter bass how much better is it? Is this worth the money?
 
I ordered the kit on Thursday night. I got it yesterday and began installing. I wish I had looked over the "kit" more closely before tearing apart my car. The video implies it comes with mounting brackets for the XLA2 and VADM1 to mount to the car. He then goes on to suggest other options for where to mount. It does not come with hardware to mount these.

Does anyone that has mounted these have any suggestions?
 
This is what I was afraid of. If they don't include detailed step by step instructions or some sort of wiring harness to bypass existing wiring, I'd be at a loss about what to do. I know my clumsy-clueless self would destroy something. I was hoping there'd at least be instructions like "find the red wire, tap it with this, then connect that, etc."

If there aren't, I'll have to find an installer or skip this. :(

It doesn't come with mounting brackets for the electronic components either. I've sent an email to sales to hopefully get a quote on a couple brackets.
 
For those that have this how much better is it over the stock sub? I feel the stock sub does “fine” with tighter bass but can’t handle anything low. Does this sub make up for it? I know it’s not 2 12’s in a ported box. For the tighter bass how much better is it? Is this worth the money?

It’s more powerful and is audible at lower frequencies. You can feel it move the air. Lastly, unlike the stock sub, you can tune this one to your liking (power/EQ/crossover)
 
It doesn't come with mounting brackets for the electronic components either. I've sent an email to sales to hopefully get a quote on a couple brackets.

See my photos and post earlier in the thread. The amp is so light I just attached it to the body with adhesive Velcro strips (where the small foam block was). The LOC I just tucked in that right well near the stock amp on top of the miles of extra RCA cable for cushioning, and I doubt it’s going anywhere.
 
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See my photos and post earlier in the thread. The amp is so light I just attached it to the body with adhesive Velcro strips (where the small foam block was). The LOC I just tucked in that right well near the stock amp on top of the miles of extra RCA cable for cushioning, and I doubt it’s going anywhere.

I can second using a thick strip of velcro. While I haven't installed this kit I've done a number of small installs over the years and that works well. I will say though that having all the electronics separate is what is turning me off from making this purchase. Seems like a single powered subwoofer in the sub truck would be a much easier install.
 
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Hi everyone! My NVX subwoofer kit got delivered! Now the challenging part is finding a suitable and efficient way of arranging my setup. Since I have an SR+
  1. I'm going to have to tap into the main front door speakers for a signal. My plan is posi tap them from the factory harness coming out of the MCU as inputs into the XLCA2.
  2. I have either an insanely brilliant or stupid idea for arranging the XLCA2 and the VADM1 amp. I was thinking of squeezing BOTH of those devices in the little space next to the rear right passenger seat (where the NVX tutorial mounted the amp). That way I can reduce a lot of wiring by:
    • Use a RCA male-to-male adapter and leave out the 16ft included RCA cable to connect between the amp and XLCA2.
    • Use a remote wire between the two devices that can be a matter of inches.
    • I was going to tap from the 12V power and Ground wire (8 gauge) going into the amp to connect both of them to the XLCA2. Anyone see any issues with this considering the XLCA2 is such a low power device (150mA draw)? That way I can save the hassle of running an additional ground and power wire for the XLCA2.
Sad to say but I have an electrical engineering degree from UCLA but not smart enough to wire up my car stereo! Any help would be much appreciated!
 
See my photos and post earlier in the thread. The amp is so light I just attached it to the body with adhesive Velcro strips (where the small foam block was). The LOC I just tucked in that right well near the stock amp on top of the miles of extra RCA cable for cushioning, and I doubt it’s going anywhere.

Thanks. I think I can go ahead and screw the machine screws in for where they have their amp. Looks like lots of extra space between the point of mounting and the external body so I don't think I have to worry about screws poking through. I'll try velcro for the crossover.
 
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Hi everyone! My NVX subwoofer kit got delivered! Now the challenging part is finding a suitable and efficient way of arranging my setup. Since I have an SR+
  1. I'm going to have to tap into the main front door speakers for a signal. My plan is posi tap them from the factory harness coming out of the MCU as inputs into the XLCA2.
  2. I have either an insanely brilliant or stupid idea for arranging the XLCA2 and the VADM1 amp. I was thinking of squeezing BOTH of those devices in the little space next to the rear right passenger seat (where the NVX tutorial mounted the amp). That way I can reduce a lot of wiring by:
    • Use a RCA male-to-male adapter and leave out the 16ft included RCA cable to connect between the amp and XLCA2.
    • Use a remote wire between the two devices that can be a matter of inches.
    • I was going to tap from the 12V power and Ground wire (8 gauge) going into the amp to connect both of them to the XLCA2. Anyone see any issues with this considering the XLCA2 is such a low power device (150mA draw)? That way I can save the hassle of running an additional ground and power wire for the XLCA2.
Sad to say but I have an electrical engineering degree from UCLA but not smart enough to wire up my car stereo! Any help would be much appreciated!

You can try, but once the seat is back in, there’s really not much extra space there. Plus if you want to adjust the LOC, it’s a lot easier to pop off a carpet clip or two than to take the seat molding apart again...

I’d advise to do it as they did.