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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio

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I bought the Tesla Offer wire harness with subwires. I am planning to do the same like what you have done already. I have not done this kind of DIY before. How long did it take you to do? Do I need special tools?
If it was me, I'd either use a Kicker KeyLOC line out converter and amp OR their Kicker Key 500.1 amp, since both with restore all the factory roll-of in an SR+. The SR+ rolls off the bass fast under 60Hz on the front speakers.. without something to flatten it back out, you're missing a lot of sub-bass.
 
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Is everyone here satisfied with their sound system? NVX has powered subwoofer boxes that fit seamlessly into the trunk of a model 3 and vastly improve sound quality over the standard system. I may do a giveaway if it's allowed and if there is enough interest in this forum for one of these.
Model 3 BOOST Box.jpg
 
Is everyone here satisfied with their sound system? NVX has powered subwoofer boxes that fit seamlessly into the trunk of a model 3 and vastly improve sound quality over the standard system. I may do a giveaway if it's allowed and if there is enough interest in this forum for one of these.View attachment 685913

(moderator note: "A giveaway" would be considered advertising, so no, you cant do that without becoming a vendor. volunteer mods like myself do not handle advertising (except to remove unapproved advertising). Please reach out to the site owners to inquire about advertising, via email at [email protected])
 
Ok, i ordered the kit too. Thanks for that hint with the FB Group. Got the 15% discount. Excited to hear how this works together with the upgrades i did so far to the Audio System. In the front doors i put ISU-200 Woofers, the OEM sub got replaced by an RockfordFosgate P3SD4-8 and in the dash i went with MAC Audio Edition 102. The Tweeters were also changed, those came with the ISU-200 Woofers.
 

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Wanted to report so far no issues with 12V battery though i do plan on upgrading to the Ohmmu battery on my car's 2nd birthday. Power draw on JL RD500/1 seems to be efficient enough not to trigger a 12V warning. Side note: Ive been blasting my music 70% with the bass turned up to 95% for 2 weeks now.

Where are you running your RD500/1 from? Battery under hood or Penthouse? Would Penthouse even be effected if you upgraded to Ohmmu battery in that case?
 
Where are you running your RD500/1 from? Battery under hood or Penthouse? Would Penthouse even be effected if you upgraded to Ohmmu battery in that case?
I actually have an Ohmmu battery on stand-by just in case. I've been running this set up for 4-5 months now with no issues ever since I did a penthouse reset. My 500/1's power is being fed from the penthouse - do not connect to the 12V directly or else you will get errors. My buddy connected his underglow to his 12V got errors galore, so dont be like him. My OEM battery is still kicking but who knows for how much longer - currently at 37K miles which is above average even when compared to others who dont have a huge load connected to your 12V or VC_front.
 
Welp guys, I hate to report, I got the 12V battery error. Mine was a quirky one though - Throwing VC_Front errors, specifically:
VCFront_a402 - Electrical system backup power is unavailable
VCFront_a220 - Electrical system is unable to support all features
VCFront_192 - Electrical system power reduced (Common)

Luckily I got the 12V Ohmmu LiPo battery coming so hopefully I can last until then - for now, everything seems to be working fine despite the error. Stay tuned.
Hey @cdub715, how did you end up clearing those errors? I happened to get the same set today after washing my car. I'm wondering if it has something to do with a motorized frunk kit I installed over a year ago.
 
Ok, i ordered the kit too. Thanks for that hint with the FB Group. Got the 15% discount. Excited to hear how this works together with the upgrades i did so far to the Audio System. In the front doors i put ISU-200 Woofers, the OEM sub got replaced by an RockfordFosgate P3SD4-8 and in the dash i went with MAC Audio Edition 102. The Tweeters were also changed, those came with the ISU-200 Woofers.
Did you find the ISU-200 and dash speakers helped the sound? I've been thinking of trying these in my SR+ but I'm waiting for the car to be less new. I'm not ready to take the dash apart in my new Tesla yet, even though I did that with my Odyssey and was able to put it back together without any issue, twice!
 
Did you find the ISU-200 and dash speakers helped the sound? I've been thinking of trying these in my SR+ but I'm waiting for the car to be less new. I'm not ready to take the dash apart in my new Tesla yet, even though I did that with my Odyssey and was able to put it back together without any issue, twice!

The dash speakers, i would say a little bit espacially because they have the little tweeter on them. The Focals are a huge improvement. FYI they are 8'' compared to the Tesla ones having ~6,5''.
 
The dash speakers, i would say a little bit espacially because they have the little tweeter on them. The Focals are a huge improvement. FYI they are 8'' compared to the Tesla ones having ~6,5''.
Thanks! I just find everything about the original setup to be fatiguing to listen to. I sometimes think it is the amp too and worry the upgraded speakers won't solve it, but maybe they will.
 
So, my kit came today. The fiberglass box had minor shipping damage.. but nothing a proper amount of Loctite couldn't fix.
Before I even started with the install, i cut out the little Trunk window. Curious if that makes one or two extra dB. 😄
Now to the Jack Nut. Throw it away immediately! This thing died after one or two firm turns with the bolt. I had to improvise and did it that way: Just put the bolt through and managed to get two nuts glued to my fingers(!) through that bigger hole aside and onto the bolt. That was enough of messing around for one day though.
 

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So, my kit came today. The fiberglass box had minor shipping damage.. but nothing a proper amount of Loctite couldn't fix.
Before I even started with the install, i cut out the little Trunk window. Curious if that makes one or two extra dB. 😄
Now to the Jack Nut. Throw it away immediately! This thing died after one or two firm turns with the bolt. I had to improvise and did it that way: Just put the bolt through and managed to get two nuts glued to my fingers(!) through that bigger hole aside and onto the bolt. That was enough of messing around for one day though.

What year is your car? I am curious how to add a vent in my 2020 Model 3 so that I can hopefully get some more bass from the subwoofer in the trunk.
 
So, my kit came today. The fiberglass box had minor shipping damage.. but nothing a proper amount of Loctite couldn't fix.
Before I even started with the install, i cut out the little Trunk window. Curious if that makes one or two extra dB. 😄
Now to the Jack Nut. Throw it away immediately! This thing died after one or two firm turns with the bolt. I had to improvise and did it that way: Just put the bolt through and managed to get two nuts glued to my fingers(!) through that bigger hole aside and onto the bolt. That was enough of messing around for one day though.

I'd call that more than minor shipping damage and would ask for a replacement personally, but if you're happy with it who cares. I've been seriously considering this kit for a while. Stock is ok sometimes with certain music, but leaves me wanting a bass gain knob a lot of the time. This seems like a really good option without dramatically impacting power draw, usable trunk space, etc. I've been reluctant to start pulling my car apart, but hey, it's almost three years old.
 
What year is your car? I am curious how to add a vent in my 2020 Model 3 so that I can hopefully get some more bass from the subwoofer in the trunk.
I got a 2019 M3 LR-AWD. The Opening was covered with some pressed paper or so.

I'd call that more than minor shipping damage and would ask for a replacement personally, but if you're happy with it who cares. I've been seriously considering this kit for a while. Stock is ok sometimes with certain music, but leaves me wanting a bass gain knob a lot of the time. This seems like a really good option without dramatically impacting power draw, usable trunk space, etc. I've been reluctant to start pulling my car apart, but hey, it's almost three years old.
I wouldn't want to wait another 2 weeks or more for return and delivery. Think I got it repaired as good as necessary.

Here is my setup placed in the lower trunk space btw. Question: Is it normal that both the XLCA2 and the Amp get really warm even when not listening to any music? Just from being switched on?
 

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Ok, i ordered the kit too. Thanks for that hint with the FB Group. Got the 15% discount. Excited to hear how this works together with the upgrades i did so far to the Audio System. In the front doors i put ISU-200 Woofers, the OEM sub got replaced by an RockfordFosgate P3SD4-8 and in the dash i went with MAC Audio Edition 102. The Tweeters were also changed, those came with the ISU-200 Woofers.
Are the door and dash speakers you list plug and play like the Light Harmonic? and the Rockford Fostgate sub? Not sure I want to tackle raw re-wiring.