i have the silver cable connected between the two units As shown in the wiring diagram and a forum members pic, however I do not have the phone jack cable connected for bass boost.
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Another subwoofer option - NVX Audio
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Update: Been on the phone with NVX tech support. We got out the multi-meter and deduced defective VADM1 channel output. Receiving a new VADM1.
I noticed you tapped into the Tesla wires plugging into the top of the Tesla amp (pre-amp signal) vs the wires plugging into the Tesla sub (shown in NVX video). Why?
ratcityrain
Member
It looks like I did, but I did the same as NVX. Only difference is that I removed the oem tape and loom so that I could tap into the wires lower down on the harness, but I had done it the same way NVX shows in video and the diagrams..
I just did the install and things are working. The bass is really overwhelming and doesn't sound very crisp. Still trying to get the tuning right.
Which is the correct place to tap the wires for the LOC? I tapped them on the connector plugged into the stock amp right next to the power and ground wires (first image below). Should they be tapped at the ones going into the amp (second picture)? The wires look like they're in the same harness and I don't see any wires coming out of the amp..
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cdub715
Member
Apparently not lol.
BTW, If any of y'all are in SoCal, DM me if you need help on your installation, happy to help and meet fellow Tesla owners.
Installation should be easy - if you're scared of cutting into OEM wiring, I highly suggest using Posi-Taps. They are expensive but well worth the money if you're looking for the least invasive route.
I also forgot to mention: Please use a >320kbps bit rate 50hz sound file when tuning your sub. I made the rookie mistake and played the 50Hz sound file from my Spotifiy which was 128kbps by default. a big no-no.
I contacted NVX and they said you can splice the speaker wires either at the connector to the factory amp or at the connector to the subwoofer. I followed some of the tuning advice here and it sounds much better now. I also disconnected the stock amp and it sounds great!
cdub715
Member
If you want to include your factory sub rather than disconnecting it, I recommend wiring your NVX sub out of phase with the OEM sub. This means swapping the (+) lead with the (-) lead. Since both subs are on opposite sides of each other, putting them out of phase will help match the signal outputs on both subs better. Thank me later
T
Thanks for that tip. I did see a few other people in this thread do the same. I disconnected mine originally when I was trying to tune the sound and isolate the new sun but didn’t feel like opening the trunk panel again to plug it back in haha.If you want to include your factory sub rather than disconnecting it, I recommend wiring your NVX sub out of phase with the OEM sub. This means swapping the (+) lead with the (-) lead. Since both subs are on opposite sides of each other, putting them out of phase will help match the signal outputs on both subs better. Thank me later
Captain McFunk
Member
does the "sound sensing" feature on the XLCA2 work appropriately? ie, does the XLCA2 and amp turn off when the car goes to sleep? I have an audiocontrol lc2i and it turns on appropriately, but it doesn't turn off until about 30 minutes after i've closed all the doors and the car is "asleep"...
cdub715
Member
I second this... the XLCA will only turn off when your OEM amp turns off (signal to the remote plug). I've tested this by placing a GoPro in my car and left it on record to get an exact time to when the entire system shuts off/goes to sleep - usually around the 20-30 min mark. There are some 3rd party apps like Tezlab that can force your car to go to deep sleep if preventing phantom drain is what youre going for.
FWIW, I've got a JL Audio amp that gets pretty warm at times, even when the music is at a minimum. I have my amp mounted inverted on the tan-colored metal so that could play a role to why my amp gets excessively warm. Nonetheless, i've been happily bumping for almost a year now with no issues other than the 12V errors. Hope this helps.
Mixman
Member
How is your rd500/1? I have the VADM1 but I am looking to add my 12” Stereo Integrety sub which needs more power than the NVX amp can do, so I am looking at either a 500 Watt Audiocontrol or JL audio amp. I have an older JL HD 1200/1 but that is way overkill for the Tesla and would almost surely throw error codes.
cdub715
Member
The RD500/1 is great and a huge upgrade to the VMD1 amp. On paper, there's only 180W delta (2ohm) between the two but the sound is way cleaner at loud volumes (I initially bought the kit from NVX then opted to replace the amp with the RD500/1). My main goal was to maximize the bass but not sacrificing any trunk space - wanted it to be as stealth as possible. Tbh, if you don't care about your system being incognito/stealth, i'd save the bones and reuse your already existing HD1200/1 (great amp btw - had it in my land cruiser). You can wire it at 4ohm, port the box, and be bumping 2-3x more bass than mine, but then again, i dont know what your objectives are, just adding my 2 cents.
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