Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Any advice how NOT to get scammed with a private buyer?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
the OP just soiled his diapers and is afraid to accept the envelope, let alone deposit the check. i had planned to force the bank to cash it (well, not force, but "please give me $49k, large bills fine") and none of the old, "yeah, sure deposit and i'll wait a few days" - as i HAVE heard of those going south.
I want $11k. there, i said it (numerous times)
but i'm a squeamish guy. there is NO WAY i'd send $49k on a 1 minute call, no due diligence, asking about the car, etc. - the check is supposed to come tomorrow, i may scan it (remove my name) to the forum, and then send back with an apology - sorry, car was sold.
i'll send from post office so my account numbers won't be on it.
will cost me like $6 to send with tracking, and i'll put this to bed.
i'm greedy, but more nervous than greedy.
While I personally wouldn't do that I'm always amazed by how many people out there are willing to do exactly that and it's legitimate. So this willingness to send a check ahead of any sort of guarantee for the buyer doesn't automatically mean it's a scam but it certainly creates some red flags that should have you more receptive to everything.

Nervous is a good thing to be whenever you're talking about larger sums of money. This nervousness is a sign of intelligence and, if you do your due diligence, doesn't have to mean it's for sure a scam or you should simple walk away w/o fully examining the whole picture. What are you potential threat vectors and how can you actually be defrauded?

This is maybe the most important aspect that I keep posing and nobody can give me a way that you can be conned: If you are keeping the car and title until funds have cleared your account (maybe throw in an extra week or two beyond that if it makes you feel more comfortable so you can sleep at night) then how can you be defrauded? Other than giving your personal info (full name, address, etc.) there's really no risk assumed by the seller in this scenario. It's when someone "overpays" and wants a partial refund or wants to have their shipper pick up the car the next day and you keep the title until the funds clear or various other common scams people try to play do you see this ending in tears.

I can tell you from experience that that first step I listed in my initial post will rule out most scams. If the account doesn't have funds in it to make the check good (or if the bank tells you flat out that that cashier's check wasn't created by them based on the issuing brand and check number) then you don't even deposit it into your account. You're out nothing other than the 2-mintes it took to make a phone call and ask someone to do something they do all day long.

Once you verify the funds are there you take it to the next step. This is the first place you open yourself to potentially being out anything because if the funds were in the account when you called but by the time the check is processed a few days later those funds may not be there. As an example, say your check was $10 and when you called they said there was enough funds in the account to cover the check. You got ahead and deposit that check and a day or two later the guy buys a $2 candy bar. Maybe he only had $11 in the account when the bank rep said it would clear so now it's only $9 when the bank hits the account. The check will be rejected due to insufficient funds at that time and returned to you. You can play this same again again until it clears but likely you will get the buyer involved again before just blindly dropping it into your account again. Your bank will likely hit you with an insufficient funds fee which you will now be out which is why this is the first place you can be out something. I would certainly make the buyer make good on the check as well as your fee since that's their fault, not yours.

Other than that, you are literally not exposed to fraud at this point. It's not until you give you the car and/or title that you are now actually out something. I would do every bit of due diligence I can prior to that point though and make sure you have cleared funds in your account plus whatever period of time makes you comfortable that it's a legitimate deal.

Not only was I in the banking/financial industry for a number of years but I've bought/sold millions of dollars worth of vehicles over the last couple of decades. I'm on seven used Tesla Model S's alone. I've also bought and sold quite a bit more than that in real estate as well. Some of the best "deals" I've got have included some sort of unique circumstances. Sure, you can knee-jerk assume it's a scam and walk away without investing any time at all into researching if it's actually a scam or not but you're going to leave lots of money on the table. As you already stated, you'd be walking away from $11k which is no small sum, regardless of your current relative financial position. Sure, you lower your exposure to fraud walking away from everything but, if you do it right and know the system inside and out including all of the potential threat vectors, you can also know if you're being scammed or not.

These deals are all about trust. Regardless of how you process it there is some degree of trust that must be entered into on both sides of the table. It sounds like the buyer is willing to give you FAR more trust then they're asking of you. While I personally wouldn't leave myself exposed to fraud like that buyer is, it doesn't automatically mean it's a scam. They're just more willing to trust that they're comfortable with you as a seller that you will come through with your end of the bargain once that time comes.

If it is indeed a scam you'll likely know pretty early on in those steps I posted initially which will almost completely eliminate your exposure to fraud on this one. The choice is yours if you're comfortable with that degree of risk or not. After all, all of these types of transactions come with some degree of risk... it's just a question of if you're aware of it or if you care about it or not. Either way, if you decide to pursue this further, I would certainly make attempts to get to know the buyer better. Even though he's the one assuming most all of the risk the way you've detailed it, I would still want to know EVERYTHING about the person behind the check before I moved forward at all.
 
  • Love
Reactions: IamGaryGnu
Unsolicited advise? Did you even bother to read the title of this thread or are you too busy coming at me personally to realize what the conversation was even about?

Sorry, I should have said "often unsolicited advice". :rolleyes:

The point is, if there is any opportunity to get into arguments with people, you'll jump right in, and usually quite aggressively. Not that I'm not saying nobody should ever argue with randos on the internet, but there are nice ways to do it, and then there's your way.
 
Sorry, I should have said "often unsolicited advice". :rolleyes:
So you readily & openly admit that you bring extra baggage from every past conversation from topic to topic. Seems healthy.

Also explains why you felt I was being "harshly aggressive" when nothing in my posts to that point had lead anyone else to believe that. Well, I should say anyone else who doesn't have a weird obsession with me and follows me all over the forum as I previously mentioned and has since been proven out.

Maybe you should just read my words for what they say and not try to read tone and intent into everyone's post when there is none. Seems like something you would want others to do with your posts too, right? Certainly is an easier way to go through life than carrying all of these chips on your shoulder that don't do any good.

If we all got together and had a beer these conversations would be entirely different. This is how I try to approach each individual interaction I have with members of this community. I was even starting to appreciate some of ucmndd's contributions as of late but now it appears as though they want to go back to this weird toxic stuff that's of no use so... whatever.
 
While I personally wouldn't do that I'm always amazed by how many people out there are willing to do exactly that and it's legitimate. So this willingness to send a check ahead of any sort of guarantee for the buyer doesn't automatically mean it's a scam but it certainly creates some red flags that should have you more receptive to everything.

Nervous is a good thing to be whenever you're talking about larger sums of money. This nervousness is a sign of intelligence and, if you do your due diligence, doesn't have to mean it's for sure a scam or you should simple walk away w/o fully examining the whole picture. What are you potential threat vectors and how can you actually be defrauded?

This is maybe the most important aspect that I keep posing and nobody can give me a way that you can be conned: If you are keeping the car and title until funds have cleared your account (maybe throw in an extra week or two beyond that if it makes you feel more comfortable so you can sleep at night) then how can you be defrauded? Other than giving your personal info (full name, address, etc.) there's really no risk assumed by the seller in this scenario. It's when someone "overpays" and wants a partial refund or wants to have their shipper pick up the car the next day and you keep the title until the funds clear or various other common scams people try to play do you see this ending in tears.

I can tell you from experience that that first step I listed in my initial post will rule out most scams. If the account doesn't have funds in it to make the check good (or if the bank tells you flat out that that cashier's check wasn't created by them based on the issuing brand and check number) then you don't even deposit it into your account. You're out nothing other than the 2-mintes it took to make a phone call and ask someone to do something they do all day long.

Once you verify the funds are there you take it to the next step. This is the first place you open yourself to potentially being out anything because if the funds were in the account when you called but by the time the check is processed a few days later those funds may not be there. As an example, say your check was $10 and when you called they said there was enough funds in the account to cover the check. You got ahead and deposit that check and a day or two later the guy buys a $2 candy bar. Maybe he only had $11 in the account when the bank rep said it would clear so now it's only $9 when the bank hits the account. The check will be rejected due to insufficient funds at that time and returned to you. You can play this same again again until it clears but likely you will get the buyer involved again before just blindly dropping it into your account again. Your bank will likely hit you with an insufficient funds fee which you will now be out which is why this is the first place you can be out something. I would certainly make the buyer make good on the check as well as your fee since that's their fault, not yours.

Other than that, you are literally not exposed to fraud at this point. It's not until you give you the car and/or title that you are now actually out something. I would do every bit of due diligence I can prior to that point though and make sure you have cleared funds in your account plus whatever period of time makes you comfortable that it's a legitimate deal.

Not only was I in the banking/financial industry for a number of years but I've bought/sold millions of dollars worth of vehicles over the last couple of decades. I'm on seven used Tesla Model S's alone. I've also bought and sold quite a bit more than that in real estate as well. Some of the best "deals" I've got have included some sort of unique circumstances. Sure, you can knee-jerk assume it's a scam and walk away without investing any time at all into researching if it's actually a scam or not but you're going to leave lots of money on the table. As you already stated, you'd be walking away from $11k which is no small sum, regardless of your current relative financial position. Sure, you lower your exposure to fraud walking away from everything but, if you do it right and know the system inside and out including all of the potential threat vectors, you can also know if you're being scammed or not.

These deals are all about trust. Regardless of how you process it there is some degree of trust that must be entered into on both sides of the table. It sounds like the buyer is willing to give you FAR more trust then they're asking of you. While I personally wouldn't leave myself exposed to fraud like that buyer is, it doesn't automatically mean it's a scam. They're just more willing to trust that they're comfortable with you as a seller that you will come through with your end of the bargain once that time comes.

If it is indeed a scam you'll likely know pretty early on in those steps I posted initially which will almost completely eliminate your exposure to fraud on this one. The choice is yours if you're comfortable with that degree of risk or not. After all, all of these types of transactions come with some degree of risk... it's just a question of if you're aware of it or if you care about it or not. Either way, if you decide to pursue this further, I would certainly make attempts to get to know the buyer better. Even though he's the one assuming most all of the risk the way you've detailed it, I would still want to know EVERYTHING about the person behind the check before I moved forward at all.
thanks for taking the time to type the other stuff, and this, and to help clarify.
I said to a buddy that I'm not sure if I'd be a great judge or a horrible one - i can be swayed by good arguments pretty easily.
what your'e saying makes sense. a lot of it.
it is supposed to be a bank check, so if BOA doesn't have enough funds to cover, we're all in trouble.
just almost everything seems off to me.
there are some minor ways it can make sense to me - but if he's willing to pay "top dollar" and say, export the car, why not buy at an aucton for a bunch less and then export the car? i dunno.
Let's see what comes in tomrorow's mail (hopefully not anthrax) and then i'll drive to a local BOA.
if they say it's not a cashable type of check, i'll likely be done.
I'm supposed to pick up my baby on Friday - so if i do a trade, my out of pocket is nice and low, car is by them, and i'm done.
if i don't trade in, i have to come up with more (which is fine) and now i have an extra car to still get rid of.
I'll go through plenty of inconvenience for $11k, but if it's all BS and i get actually a few dollars less than tesla, i'm out that money, the convenience of dropping off at tesla, etc.
so, tomorrow will be my acid test.
check needs to come, and i need to be shown it is good.
i still plan to scan and upload - if it is good i may knock off some of the account or routing numbers, if it's bad i'll post it in all it's glory for you guys to do things i can't even imagine.
 
thanks for taking the time to type the other stuff, and this, and to help clarify.
I said to a buddy that I'm not sure if I'd be a great judge or a horrible one - i can be swayed by good arguments pretty easily.
what your'e saying makes sense. a lot of it.
it is supposed to be a bank check, so if BOA doesn't have enough funds to cover, we're all in trouble.
just almost everything seems off to me.
there are some minor ways it can make sense to me - but if he's willing to pay "top dollar" and say, export the car, why not buy at an aucton for a bunch less and then export the car? i dunno.
Let's see what comes in tomrorow's mail (hopefully not anthrax) and then i'll drive to a local BOA.
if they say it's not a cashable type of check, i'll likely be done.
I'm supposed to pick up my baby on Friday - so if i do a trade, my out of pocket is nice and low, car is by them, and i'm done.
if i don't trade in, i have to come up with more (which is fine) and now i have an extra car to still get rid of.
I'll go through plenty of inconvenience for $11k, but if it's all BS and i get actually a few dollars less than tesla, i'm out that money, the convenience of dropping off at tesla, etc.
so, tomorrow will be my acid test.
check needs to come, and i need to be shown it is good.
i still plan to scan and upload - if it is good i may knock off some of the account or routing numbers, if it's bad i'll post it in all it's glory for you guys to do things i can't even imagine.
From your posts I think you have a good enough head on your shoulders to keep yourself out of trouble even if you don't fully understand the machinations of the process. If he sends you a cashier's check drawn off of BoA and you can physically take it into a branch that's obviously just as good or better than calling to verify funds. I think that trip by itself will tell you a lot about the direction things are going to go.

Hell, you may open the envelope and laugh to yourself and know in an instant that this is a bad check and exercise your trade-in plan while contacting law enforcement authorities about this obviously fake check. I've had that happen too. Received a "cashier's check" in the mail with blurry text on basic paper that was not even a good attempt at faking a cashier's check. These days, most will be better than that which makes that next step super important but you may know the moment you open the envelope. Either way, I'd plan a trip to BoA to either verify funds on the check or help with filing chargers to get the ball rolling on this clown before he can take advantage of someone less savvy. In the end, it's just a numbers game for the crooks.

This is very important though; even if they confirm it's a real check and funds are good you still do NOT release the car or title until those funds have fully cleared your account. No matter what. Stuff happens and as long as you still have the car and the title the odds of stuff happening to you are nearly zero which is why this deal has very little risk to you as the seller if you've provided the details fully and accurately to this point. I agree, seems odd that someone is willing to just send you a cashier's check. That said, in order for these transactions to take place there needs to be some degree of trust on both parties part or it will never happen.

I'm stubborn in that I don't even give my mobile number to people online I've never met. This tends to scare people off but that's fine, I'll just wait until the next one comes along. Doesn't make me a scammer because I'm not willing to give my personal info out to strangers online whom I've never met. I'm just more guarded. That's going to scare some people away and that's fine too. It's all about your personal level of comfort.

Some people are willing to lose tens of thousands of dollars to practically give their car to Zoom, Carvana, etc. because they feel safer doing so. While the #'s support that it it can be a safer transaction it doesn't guarantee your position. There's an awful lot of stories of major car dealers taking cars in on trade, not paying off the owner's lien and then absconding criminally with their vehicle/money. Sure this rare and it's criminally chargeable but you're still left on the hook to some degree because you did business with them. Again, the risk factor is certainly lower but you're also "paying" for this peace of mind when you factor in the spread between what you get versus would you could have got.

From what you've said, you are caught somewhere between these two worlds: less money for lower risk or more money for increased risk. There's really no shame in your decision whatever you decide is best for you. Just make sure you understand what's at play in both scenarios fully before making a decision. Fortune favors the brave. You just have to make sure your risks are know and you insulate yourself as best as possible from fraud. If you don't see a scenario that you can insulate, bail. In all scenarios it's important that you do your due diligence to protect your financial position as only you is ultimately looking out for your best interests in this regard.

All of that said, you mentioned you pick up your new car on Friday. Do NOT rush this private party transaction or you will get burned by some arbitrary deadline you set for yourself. If that p/u date means you need to have this done and done before Friday, it may not leave enough time to fully and properly see this process out. If you get the check and the bank says "Yeah, that's a real check and it's good to go" you may feel that that's good enough to pass on the trade-in opportunity so that you can still pick up your new car. It just means you will own two cars for possibly weeks while you're waiting for the funds to officially clear your account plus whatever period of time would make you feel comfortable with releasing the car & title. Don't link those two transactions though and rush through the necessary steps or you could be opening yourself to getting hosed if this is indeed a scam.
 
So I'm curious, since the buyer was willing to wait until the seller verified the funds before sending the car or title, does it make any difference what type of check he sends? Do all check types (personal, certified, cashier's) "clear" the same way. Would the seller actually be better off receiving a personal check in this case.

And on the other hand let's assume the buyer is legit. Who knows what his motivation is for potentially overpaying for the car? The used car market is pretty nuts right now, maybe you have exactly the car he wants and he wants to make sure to get it from you without any issue. (kind of like offering over asking price on a house). (Hard to say since I don't think the OP ever mentioned what kind of car it was)
 
So I'm curious, since the buyer was willing to wait until the seller verified the funds before sending the car or title, does it make any difference what type of check he sends? Do all check types (personal, certified, cashier's) "clear" the same way. Would the seller actually be better off receiving a personal check in this case.

And on the other hand let's assume the buyer is legit. Who knows what his motivation is for potentially overpaying for the car? The used car market is pretty nuts right now, maybe you have exactly the car he wants and he wants to make sure to get it from you without any issue. (kind of like offering over asking price on a house). (Hard to say since I don't think the OP ever mentioned what kind of car it was)
Good question and I did hint to that previously. As the seller, you should treat ALL checks exactly the same and take the same precautionary steps. The days of cashiers checks being "as good as cash" are long, long, LONG gone at this point. Follow the same steps I outlined previously regardless of type of draft: personal or cashier's check. Those steps & the timeline will basically look identical.

Used to be one major difference was that the cashier's' check was 1) guaranteed funds in that the funds were verified by the bank for issuance and 2) couldn't have a stop payment put on them. While it's true that personal checks are much easier to put a stop payment on by the account holder, cashier's checks can also have a stop payment put on them by the issuing bank. Used to be this was reserved for criminal activity and obvious fraudulent transactions & was so rare that it was basically just a rumor as to if it was even possible. Banks have taken advantage of this "gray area" as of late so I wouldn't trust a cashier's check anymore than a personal check in that I wouldn't consider it guaranteed funds until it's fully cleared my account. At that point it really doesn't matter what type of check it is.

As far as you mentioning overpaying for the car... did I miss something? I don't recall the seller saying anything about the buyer offering to pay more than the asking price. I don't recall reading that anywhere. If the buyer of a vehicle was offering more than asking price to "secure" their place in line I would consider that a red flag as well since it's so far outside of what's considered a normal transaction of this type. Don't get me wrong, if someone wants to pay me more for an item than I'm asking I'll certainly take it but until the transaction is finalized I will place that fact in the "red flag" column and ask myself "why" repeatedly until I've come up with a sufficient answer that makes me comfortable with the whole thing.
 
Good question and I did hint to that previously. As the seller, you should treat ALL checks exactly the same and take the same precautionary steps. The days of cashiers checks being "as good as cash" are long, long, LONG gone at this point. Follow the same steps I outlined previously regardless of type of draft: personal or cashier's check. Those steps & the timeline will basically look identical.

Used to be one major difference was that the cashier's' check was 1) guaranteed funds in that the funds were verified by the bank for issuance and 2) couldn't have a stop payment put on them. While it's true that personal checks are much easier to put a stop payment on by the account holder, cashier's checks can also have a stop payment put on them by the issuing bank. Used to be this was reserved for criminal activity and obvious fraudulent transactions & was so rare that it was basically just a rumor as to if it was even possible. Banks have taken advantage of this "gray area" as of late so I wouldn't trust a cashier's check anymore than a personal check in that I wouldn't consider it guaranteed funds until it's fully cleared my account. At that point it really doesn't matter what type of check it is.

As far as you mentioning overpaying for the car... did I miss something? I don't recall the seller saying anything about the buyer offering to pay more than the asking price. I don't recall reading that anywhere. If the buyer of a vehicle was offering more than asking price to "secure" their place in line I would consider that a red flag as well since it's so far outside of what's considered a normal transaction of this type. Don't get me wrong, if someone wants to pay me more for an item than I'm asking I'll certainly take it but until the transaction is finalized I will place that fact in the "red flag" column and ask myself "why" repeatedly until I've come up with a sufficient answer that makes me comfortable with the whole thing.
Thanks for the explanation on the checks.

Perhaps overpaying wasn't the correct term. You are correct that he didn't offer more than what the seller asked. It just seemed to me that the OP was actually surprised that the buyer was willing to pay his full asking price, and that this was significantly more than he could get from his second best avenue for sale. Maybe it was more that he was surprised to get full asking price with no other due diligence.
 
Thanks for the explanation on the checks.

Perhaps overpaying wasn't the correct term. You are correct that he didn't offer more than what the seller asked. It just seemed to me that the OP was actually surprised that the buyer was willing to pay his full asking price, and that this was significantly more than he could get from his second best avenue for sale. Maybe it was more that he was surprised to get full asking price with no other due diligence.
Ah, now I see what you meant. This is a seller's market for sure so a buyer willing to pay full price w/o negotiating shouldn't be too surprising. Some people want something specific and are willing to pay a premium for exactly what they want. Heck, the last few Teslas I sold were for full asking price w/o negotiating and that was before all of this craziness. Well, the last one was right at the front end but before inventory completely dried up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: North75
as promised....
so this guy texted me about 4 minutes after the mail was delivered. it has a missippi return address (as did the tracking info). he claimed sent from orlando. also claimed would be a bank of america check.
he asked if i deposited it yet, i didn't let this run as long as i could have - got other stuff i need to deal with, but told him i'm not depositing it - he said would be bank of america, he claims he couldn't control where work sent from, yada.
this seems like a classic scam.
i texted back he should stop payment, and if he ever contacts me again i'm going to the police. sorry i gave out my cell phone, oh well. hard to tell this guy from all the other scammers calling my cell anyway! at least i don't have to spend .01 sending it back! (also finalized my trade in with tesla last night, and the updated MVPA today. Glad this is done!
1642527264475.jpeg

here's some texts as well - please pass the popcorn!
2022-01-18 12.32.47.jpg
2022-01-18 12.32.20.jpg
 
Yeah, I had a feeling this "check" would provide most of the details we needed. It's crazy to me that scammers don't button up the loose ends and almost always have several if you just take the time to check. At this point I would turn it over to LE and let them go after the guy. Is the stock watermarked and does the routing & account number on the bottom appear to be metallic and shiny when the light hits it at certain angles? I see at the top a mention of the 11 security features... did you inspect the check to see if it even has the 11 items it advertises? If it's really bad, it may not even contain the security features it clearly says it should have. Note: having them doesn't necessarily prove it's legitimate but not having them would certainly prove it's a counterfeit.

If you wanted to take this further for your own edification, you can call that bank to ask them about the check. A quick search would indicate that the bank _may_ be legitimate but I don't see the signer of that check as an authorized representative of the bank being able to sign off on such things. I would certainly contact them as they may be interested enough that someone is using their bank/checks as their basis for fraud. They may just be interested enough in getting involved to help see to it that the offending party gets what's coming to them.

Aside from that, even if they say it's legit I would have to do a LOT more research in the bank itself before I even risked a return check fee from my bank for depositing it. There's just too many inconsistencies at this point for me to consider them all a coincidence. If anything else from the story matched up and you had like one outlier that could be coincidental. At this point we've got a pattern though.

I would advise you to walk away from that as a viable option based on the evidence we now have. I would also invest a little more of your time to get this same evidence in the hands of someone who can help bring this scammer to justice. Hopefully that prevents this scum bag from finding someone who's a little more desperate with fewer resources which is all they're looking for. It's a numbers game... until they get caught.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IamGaryGnu
Clearly this was a scam. But just suppose for a second it wasn't. And he was legitimately paying you directly from a job he was owed money from. It's a convenient and illegal way to avoid paying taxes on that $49k. Also, if Conklin Oil&Propane sends out a 1099 for this, are they sending it to you, the payee of the check? :)
 
So…check felt very flimsy, and the whole thing was inkjet printed. Also I could tell not magnetic micr ink. Anyeah, after I posted this I was riled up, and called Conklin to let them know. Spoke with them for about 20 minutes, they got their first call or notice yesterday and a bunch today.
1/2 the calls were about “Richard McGuire” and the other half were about the chick on the return envelope.
imwish I knew how to get this fully investigated. Per their request. I emailed the check, my texts, and the other email this guy used to them, and also contacted autotrader which I don’t think cared.
per Conklin, not all we’re for cars, but autotrader and Craigslist were the big ones, and there was some other stuff too, like 20 attempted transactions.
thanks to all from this thread for the warnings.
yeah, all the red flags were real.
If I had more time, I would have jerked him around about depositing, telling him I was looking for the branch (they’re not in my state), asking for a different check, details on the pickup, etc.
hope this helps someone.
thank you all again!