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Any after market for Hitch Cover Plate?
- Thread starter Larryfl1
- Start date
Wouldn't standard auto trim removal tools work fine? I don't see the point of 3d printing those little wedges vs just using standard trim tools. I guess if you have a 3d printer and don't have auto trim tools but the trim removal tools are dirt cheap these days and come in handy for all sorts of things in my experience.
I use a little flat-head screwdriver. The key is to know where the clips are located, so you're not blindly prying away the cover.
While I'd like to see a better solution to the hitch cover, I think the "problem" has been somewhat blown out of proportion. I've probably removed/installed my cover 20 times now and haven't broken any clips or scratched the bumper, etc. I can do it quickly and painlessly.
I've removed it twice with difficulty. I don't think I've broken any tabs (perhaps unfortunately) but do tend to bend them as I try to put it back on. But perhaps with more practice. . . .
I did buy the living tesla tool and I do agree knowing where the location is key.. I did put some scuff marks on the bumper the first time I did it.
I did buy the living tesla tool and I do agree knowing where the location is key.. I did put some scuff marks on the bumper the first time I did it.
NCAviator
Member
Can we all agree the cover is not Tesla's best design or engineering. Probably was not high on their priorities list.
Having said that, what have other car companies done on SUVs?
I think there will be a retro-fit solution. A cover with a cut out or a door.
For me I don't want to keep taking the cover off/on each time I want to use. I don't want to take it off and leave a big hole. Seems like you could have a cover with two easy remove doors. One for hitch and one for electrical connector.
Having said that, what have other car companies done on SUVs?
I think there will be a retro-fit solution. A cover with a cut out or a door.
For me I don't want to keep taking the cover off/on each time I want to use. I don't want to take it off and leave a big hole. Seems like you could have a cover with two easy remove doors. One for hitch and one for electrical connector.
Most of the time it's just hangs out below the bumper entirely, just another barnacle on the bottom of the vehicle increasing drag. With rare exceptions the ICE SUVS/Crossovers do not worry overly much about aerodynamics at all.
The problem I see/think with the hole idea is the pin. How are you going to get the pin inserted with those holes? I think a hinge solution might work but the 'door' would need to be as large as possible. The existing hole isn't overly large to begin with
The hole works fine if all you want is a ball receiver sticking out for your trailer. However, that's not my use case. I use the hitch for a bike rack that gets screwed into the hitch and taken off after every use. No way would a small door work for me. I need every square inch of opening to get my wrench in there.
I only use it for a bike rack myself so I don't need access to the electrical. Fortunately, my rack has one of those jam / expander sort of mechanisms so I 'screw' in the jam from the back bottom of the rack. Basically a cheaper version of the Yakima FullTilt which I'm sure is what the Tesla one is. The plus for the Yakima/Tesla rack is the spring loaded pin so those racks could work with the hole idea.
As for your wrench problem with a door, couldn't you use a ratcheting box wrench? - https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Tools..._3?dchild=1&keywords=rachet+box+wrench&sr=8-3
As for your wrench problem with a door, couldn't you use a ratcheting box wrench? - https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Tools..._3?dchild=1&keywords=rachet+box+wrench&sr=8-3
Actually, I think the ideal solution would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HiTow-Traile...hild=1&keywords=trailer+hitch+extender&sr=8-5
Not only might it allow you to cut a hole in the hitch cover and have clean hitch access, but it would push the rack further away from the vehicle, which is always a good thing (don't ask me how I know).
I can't find it in the manual, but I'd swear I read the Tesla said not to use an extender.
I can only guess how you know. But it might be the same reason that my wife told me to keep carting the bikes with the Subaru until the youngest comes east around Christmas to spirit it away. I think the idea is that come spring, the trunk bashing the rack will cause less pain than if I had done it say a week after taking delivery. Not a rproblem with the Subaru as you can't open the hatch without getting out, going to the back and using the opener (similar to the MY rear button). Plus, the Subaru is manual.
I can only guess how you know. But it might be the same reason that my wife told me to keep carting the bikes with the Subaru until the youngest comes east around Christmas to spirit it away. I think the idea is that come spring, the trunk bashing the rack will cause less pain than if I had done it say a week after taking delivery. Not a rproblem with the Subaru as you can't open the hatch without getting out, going to the back and using the opener (similar to the MY rear button). Plus, the Subaru is manual.
rxlawdude
Active Member
But an extension further complicates the fulcrum (vertical force) pressure limitation. Much more likely to cause damage due to the load being further from the vehicle.
Flybuddy
Member
Playing around with this today, waiting on magnets to finish it. Bought a plastic hitch cover (below) for 3 bucks on Amazon and a moon shaped pull handle for 2 bucks. Able to bolt the bumper cover to the plastic hitch cover and then cover those screws with the pull handle. Seems to work and not as clunky looking as some of the other handles. Worth trying ideas as if you mess up it's only 15 bucks for a new bumper cover.
Attachments
I like the look
what is holding the cover on? Or the hitch cover in the receiver? Just friction? Did you remove the clips?
[edit]
Oh, reread it. I guess nothing at the moment. You're going to use the magnets. I'd appreciate the amazon links.
what is holding the cover on? Or the hitch cover in the receiver? Just friction? Did you remove the clips?
[edit]
Oh, reread it. I guess nothing at the moment. You're going to use the magnets. I'd appreciate the amazon links.
Nicest looking DIY so far! Looks like you left all, or most of the clips intact? Did you paint the moon handle? What brand/color?
More photos when you get it completed please. Nice work.
Flybuddy
Member
Thx, clips are only on because I'm waiting on magnets. The handle is a metal drawer pull and came in black, it's the 2nd link above.
rxlawdude
Active Member
I wonder if one could tighten the fit of the plastic tube cover by applying heat and deforming it slightly, thus providing the friction to hold the cover on.
Flybuddy
Member
OK, the magnets just came. 3m double sided tape on inside of plastic tube. Fairly good pull to get off with just 2 of them, went with 3 to play it safe. Looks good and works well. I'll double check the magnets for movement after some reasonable driving. If any issues I can always drill 2 small hole on either side of magnets and use a small plastic tie to hold them in place. Usually enough wiggle room in receiver to accommodate the flat part of a small tie.
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