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Any news on 100D uncorking?

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So I just did a few runs - just to get used to the app. I'm also new to doing 0-60 runs. I turned off T/C, lowered air suspension to low, turned off range mode and regen to low. Admittedly I was only around 40%-45% SoC. About the app, on the speed clocking page, I can use the slider to select 0-60 and just use that? Out of the 5 or 6 runs I did, fastest I managed was 3.81, however when I clicked on details, the table said 4.25 for 0-60. So did I really get 3.81, or was it 4.25? The next fastest was 4.21 sec, otherwise the rest were around 4.5 sec on the main page. And, the peak power I saw was 375 kW, so I guess I'm corked, or do I need to be at 90% SoC to get above 375 kW? I'm new at this, so any help/suggestions is appreciated. :)
 
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So I just did a few runs - just to get used to the app. I'm also new to doing 0-60 runs. I turned off T/C, lowered air suspension to low, turned off range mode and regen to low. Admittedly I was only around 40%-45% SoC. About the app, on the speed clocking page, I can use the slider to select 0-60 and just use that? Out of the 5 or 6 runs I did, fastest I managed was 3.81, however when I clicked on details, the table said 4.25 for 0-60. So did I really get 3.81, or was it 4.25? The next fastest was 4.21 sec, otherwise the rest were around 4.5 sec on the main page. And, the peak power I saw was 375 kW, so I guess I'm corked, or do I need to be at 90% SoC to get above 375 kW? I'm new at this, so any help/suggestions is appreciated. :)
Definitely repeat the tests with a 90%+ state of charge, that's where mine puts out about 427kW. If it doesn't put out close to that number, then you are likely corked, but based on your info I'm not sure. As for the app, not sure if it's doing some rollout addition/subtraction after runs but that's strange the 3.8 wasn't saved.
 
Ah ok, so at 95% SoC uncorked I should get 400 kW? Btw, I got a call from mobile service, he said he checked and I am already uncorked! So, I'll need to do some runs at 90%-95% SoC and see what power output I get.

Power in Watts equals Amps x Voltage. Higher SoC means higher voltage level, so surprisingly more power.

Max. Amp draw is limited by the car and by uncorking they just increased the max. limit of amp draw...
 
Uncorking also changed the torque setting on some of the other models, like the 75D. Here is the a summary of what data we have around max power and SoC. If you extrapolate the gray dotted like from 100% SoC to 40% SoC you can see the difference is about 50kW. We didn't have enough corked samples to draw a line for the corked 100D. These are not adjusted for age or mileage but you get the idea...

upload_2018-3-16_16-27-37.png
 
Just wanted to get into the spirit of runs in my car I guess, hah. Would you expect to see .5 sec or better with a 90% SoC vs. 40%?
SoC lower than 90% reduces performance the lower it goes. Not only SoC, but also battery temperature. A cold battery will reduce performance too. It hard to have a warm battery and more than 90%.
The best thing to do is drive for 15 minutes to a Supercharger, charge up, then immediately go for a 0-60 run.

Try the Teslemetry for iOS app as it works on the in car browser.
 
SoC lower than 90% reduces performance the lower it goes. Not only SoC, but also battery temperature. A cold battery will reduce performance too. It hard to have a warm battery and more than 90%.
The best thing to do is drive for 15 minutes to a Supercharger, charge up, then immediately go for a 0-60 run.

Try the Teslemetry for iOS app as it works on the in car browser.
To preface I agree this is likely the case. But to play devils advocate here for a second...

It’s interesting that it takes all this fancy maneuvering to get a warm battery at nearly full capacity and yet a cold, P100D at 50% with the same battery can go lightning, blistering, stupid shitt fast.
 
To preface I agree this is likely the case. But to play devils advocate here for a second...

It’s interesting that it takes all this fancy maneuvering to get a warm battery at nearly full capacity and yet a cold, P100D at 50% with the same battery can go lightning, blistering, stupid shitt fast.

I don't think you understand what "Devil's Advocate" means, given that nothing you said is in contrast to the position presented.
 
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I don't think you understand what "Devil's Advocate" means, given that nothing you said is in contrast to the position presented.
I’ll clarify, (but thanks for the snotty comment) the P100D with the same battery requires no preconditioning of anytype to achieve performance well beyond the 100D at 100% so why would you need to warm the battery and charge to 100% to achieve the improved 0-60 times on the 100D? (I’m assuming @Mediocrates you have no clue since your signature shows you have no Tesla, and to clarify I have both P100D and 100D) The batteries are identical. Clearly the battery is capable of delivering the maximum power a 100D could ever handle at even 50% or less. So it shouldn’t be necessary to warm or charge to 100% SOC.

This is in contrast to the comment which I said I agree with:
It hard to have a warm battery and more than 90%.
The best thing to do is drive for 15 minutes to a Supercharger, charge up, then immediately go for a 0-60 run.

If you can’t follow that contradiction I can’t help you. But if you want to buy a Tesla I have a referral code I’m happy to give you ;).
 
I’ll clarify, (but thanks for the snotty comment) the P100D with the same battery requires no preconditioning of anytype to achieve performance well beyond the 100D at 100% so why would you need to warm the battery and charge to 100% to achieve the improved 0-60 times on the 100D? (I’m assuming @Mediocrates you have no clue since your signature shows you have no Tesla, and to clarify I have both P100D and 100D) The batteries are identical. Clearly the battery is capable of delivering the maximum power a 100D could ever handle at even 50% or less. So it shouldn’t be necessary to warm or charge to 100% SOC.

This is in contrast to the comment which I said I agree with:


If you can’t follow that contradiction I can’t help you. But if you want to buy a Tesla I have a referral code I’m happy to give you ;).

The battery may be the same, but the P has a different drivetrain. IF you want max performance out of your P100D, you must do all the same things you do to get max performance out of your 100D
 
The battery may be the same, but the P has a different drivetrain. IF you want max performance out of your P100D, you must do all the same things you do to get max performance out of your 100D
Of course. I don’t have any technical knowledge. I just know where the accelerator pedal and the brake are. That’s the extent of what I know. Would be nice if someone could explain the difference who has the knowledge
 
Of course. I don’t have any technical knowledge. I just know where the accelerator pedal and the brake are. That’s the extent of what I know. Would be nice if someone could explain the difference who has the knowledge

P100D
Front Engine
Power 259 hp @ 6,100 rpm (193 kW)
Torque 243 lb·ft (329 N·m)
Rear Engine
Power 503 hp @ 6,150 rpm (375 kW)
Torque 487 lb·ft (660 N·m)

100D
Both Engines
Power 259 hp @ 6,100 rpm (193 kW)
Torque 243 lb·ft (329 N·m)
 
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