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Any possibility to DIY full coolant drain+fill?

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I know Tesla says no need to change coolant. And the coolant doesn't see any kind of high temps like ICE. But coolant will degrade over time and become acidic and attack seals. So seem best to change it after say 10 years as my 13 MS is coming up on this and never had a full coolant flush. Drive unit was replaced 2x and I've just finished a rebuild due to the common leaky rotor seal. Each time would have replaced 2-3L of coolant out of the total 14L capacity. So figure nearly 1/2 of the coolant are gradually newer than original.

Have never had good service at SC in out of warranty situations and they've caused damage on multiple visits. Very much like to DIY if possible.

Tesla service manual says to run a workshop routine ( PROC_THC_X_FLUID-FILL-DRAIN ) before start. Here is the coolant circuit diagram

Using Tesla thermal management system parts - EVcreate

Looking at the procedure and coolant diagram. Workshop basically want to put the coolant loop into serial mode where coolant travels in the following path

- radiator to chiller to heater to battery to drive unit and return to radiator

Then open this loop at the battery chiller. Alternatively clamp off either end of the opening and apply light air pressure from the reservoir. This basically push the coolant out from reservoir to the loop opening one path at a time. The radiator bypass line is probably quite short and minimal old coolant might remain there.

Does any know a way to force the car into the serial mode so can perform this procedure? Above link says serial mode is when the battery is cold. I guess the design concept is to route the drive unit's heat to aid in warming the battery.

If not possible, can pull 4 hoses off the 4-way valve and force a serial connection (if know which hose is which path). Finally just drain as much as possible at few low point openings. Refill and do say 2x which probably can easily exchange out 75%.

Googled and found no mentioning of DIY full coolant drain+flush. Just cooling bleeding which is pretty easy.
 
Have you considered getting a coolant sample tested to see if the fluid has degraded such that drain and fill is warranted? I totally understand your concern on degradation with time, just thinking if there's a way to save yourself the grief of full drain/fill if fluid quality might still be ok.
 
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OP, do you have any updates on this? I am thinking of doing this for our 2014 and 2015 MS.

Sorry no update so far. Got tied up chasing disabled HV (Turns out unplug and replug coolant heater plug fixed it. Looks like you've fixed everything that plugs into DCDC according to past posts haha)

I think short of Tesla's diag tool to configure valves and prevent car from doing its normal coolant actions, can't do their "proper" sequence. Learning more about coolant heating ATM (heater.. and also stator?), will post if discover any solution for high % drain+refill.
 
Sorry no update so far. Got tied up chasing disabled HV (Turns out unplug and replug coolant heater plug fixed it. Looks like you've fixed everything that plugs into DCDC according to past posts haha)

I think short of Tesla's diag tool to configure valves and prevent car from doing its normal coolant actions, can't do their "proper" sequence. Learning more about coolant heating ATM (heater.. and also stator?), will post if discover any solution for high % drain+refill.
Ha, sorry just saw your PM. I have two MSes, and so I tested things by swapping the parts. For the coolant change, I am thinking of draining the coolant at the coolant heater and then fill with a vacuum fill kit. Was hoping that someone had hacked the bleeding sequence by activating the pumps manually.
 
I'm sure there's a way to set the actuators with external 12V (and pwm generator maybe?) if u already know which way is series.
Another brute force way is to wait till car is in series (easy to tell with diagnostic/developer mode if u have it or scan my tesla) and pull the power (12v n fireman's loop)


Don't forget there's also radiator bypass valve...
 
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I'm sure there's a way to set the actuators with external 12V (and pwm generator maybe?) if u already know which way is series.
Another brute force way is to wait till car is in series (easy to tell with diagnostic/developer mode if u have it or scan my tesla) and pull the power (12v n fireman's loop)

Been studying my scanmytesla readings. So far, every time serial/parallel has been 100%. (Know if this means serial or parallel?)I'm scanning in current cold winter garage temp 30F outside both in L2 30A charging or just stepping on brake. Here is one from just finishing up charging

Screenshot_20221201-122615.jpg

Trying to figure out how the battery is heated (heater and/or inverter/stator) This pic shows coolant heater at 0% (don't know if mine is good. Just encountered HV disable and "fixed" by unplug/replug coolant heater plug (with 1st responder+12v disconnected of course)) and powertrain pump @ 70% This would suggest stator/inverter is heating the coolant rather than the coolant heater?

Was also thinking pulling 12v followed by 1st responder to lock in the valve configuration (seems reasonable to assume 12v unplug freeze valve in current config)

Don't forget there's also radiator bypass valve...

Have been thinking this is secondary, need to study how long this section is. Too bad I just put the fronk together after chasing coolant heater disabling drive haha.
 
Been studying my scanmytesla readings. So far, every time serial/parallel has been 100%. (Know if this means serial or parallel?)I'm scanning in current cold winter garage temp 30F outside both in L2 30A charging or just stepping on brake. Here is one from just finishing up charging
SMT is vague sometimes, i'll have to compare it to my diag screen n see which is which...
Trying to figure out how the battery is heated (heater and/or inverter/stator) This pic shows coolant heater at 0% (don't know if mine is good. Just encountered HV disable and "fixed" by unplug/replug coolant heater plug (with 1st responder+12v disconnected of course)) and powertrain pump @ 70% This would suggest stator/inverter is heating the coolant rather than the coolant heater?
If u look at Active target heat setting, its pretty low (n not consistent) so bat heater is pretty much never on unless its really cold but im curious if anyone knows more. quite possible my heater is broken too...
Watching battery temps while driving in cold, i'm pretty sure its motors that heat up the bat, its slowly increasing as u drive

1669935889583.png


1669935913170.png
 
SMT is vague sometimes, i'll have to compare it to my diag screen n see which is which...

If u look at Active target heat setting, its pretty low (n not consistent) so bat heater is pretty much never on unless its really cold but im curious if anyone knows more. quite possible my heater is broken too...
Watching battery temps while driving in cold, i'm pretty sure its motors that heat up the bat, its slowly increasing as u drive

View attachment 880281

View attachment 880282

Know of another 13 MS owner also chasing coolant heater that appears to never come on (bought a used one and samething). Mine seems similar behavior. Perhaps Tesla's recent firmware changed the heating strategy.... mainly use stator even when parked? Doubtful 4x coolant heaters are all busted. If they did change strategy and we end up just carrying something that can disable the car... haha.

While charging 60mi @ L2 30A today in cold garage, battery temp avg is 17.2C, clearly getting heat from somewhere. Don't know how much it will warm up on its own @ L2 30A.

Here is a M3 thread watching dual motor's stator heating coolant on Supercharging session.

How hot should the batteries get while charging? | Tesla Motors Club
 
Know of another 13 MS owner also chasing coolant heater that appears to never come on (bought a used one and samething). Mine seems similar behavior. Perhaps Tesla's recent firmware changed the heating strategy.... mainly use stator even when parked? Doubtful 4x coolant heaters are all busted. If they did change strategy and we end up just carrying something that can disable the car... haha.

While charging 60mi @ L2 30A today in cold garage, battery temp avg is 17.2C, clearly getting heat from somewhere. Don't know how much it will warm up on its own @ L2 30A.

Here is a M3 thread watching dual motor's stator heating coolant on Supercharging session.

How hot should the batteries get while charging? | Tesla Motors Club
4? u sure??
L2 is def heating the battery from just charging per that article n also any charging will naturally heat up batteries (just look at our cell :) )
 
FYI,
SMT series/parallel = 0 is Series on diag screen, and 100% is Parallel from my observation of both.

Battery heating observations, 37F outside, car sat for 12hrs.
Range mode and Car off or on:
1670002114750.png


Range Off, car off:
1670002141950.png


Range off, car On:
1670002209546.png

This one seems dynamic to me...

Also, my battery heater never turned on but i didn't drive with Range Off, just flipped it for testing.
While driving with Range On, it stayed in Parallel for about 10min (battery didn't heat at all) then went into Series n slowly started to heat the battery.
 
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What app version of SMT are you using? Great to see you have Target Bat Active and Passive displayed, my SMT doesn't have those values.
Also very interesting that your Battery Pump 1 and 2 are at different %, I have never seen my 2 batt pumps at different %
SMT series/parallel = 0 is Series on diag screen, and 100% is Parallel from my observation of both.
Very helpful to post your Active and Passive temps, thank you, seems Tesla has changed the targets over the years. How do you display that thermal screen? Do you know how to get SMT to list those values, like in Howard's screenshot?
 
What app version of SMT are you using? Great to see you have Target Bat Active and Passive displayed, my SMT doesn't have those values.
Also very interesting that your Battery Pump 1 and 2 are at different %, I have never seen my 2 batt pumps at different %
Pumps will show diff values in parallel mode
1670088526570.png
1670088544368.png

Very helpful to post your Active and Passive temps, thank you, seems Tesla has changed the targets over the years. How do you display that thermal screen? Do you know how to get SMT to list those values, like in Howard's screenshot?
Thermal screen is from Diag/Dev modes. U need password for it, u bring it up same was as service mode just with diff pass. LayZ got it for me after root.
I believe SMT only shows it with Car On. In general SMT shows a lot more values when car is on.
But i've noticed the there's mismatch between Diag n SMT not sure if its just not updating or something else...
1670088816231.png
 
OP, I have got a leak in the 4-way valve and decided to take the opportunity to flush the coolant. I have been playing around with the valve on the bench and I think that I have a plan. Ordered some parts (electrical plugs for the valves, pins, wires, and adaptor for pressurizing reservoir tank). I will keep you posted. Pictured is the valve position (50%) I will use for draining.
 

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FYI: Firmware 2023.6.X (maybe it was on slightly earlier versions too) gives you the option in the "hidden" service menu to perform Coolant service and Thermal Tests:

View attachment 926602

Great find! I haven’t looked yet, but before I start digging, can anyone confirm that the actual drain and refill procedure to go with this menu is in the online shop manuals?