So i took delivery of aUsed 2017 MX 75D 3 weeks ago and I immediately noticed the range was very inaccurate. The first drive home took about 40 Miles off my range when the drive is only about 18-20. Ever since the first day I've had range mode on, only use the AC fan speed to like 5/6 and just have music on through bluetooth. My avg. Wh/Mi is about 550-600 and sometimes even 650!(I think the recommended is 330Wh/Mi to reach ideal range.) I've made an appointment for service the day i took delivery (June 27th) not only for HW3/MCU2 Upgrade, but also for this issue. The soonest appointment they had was the 16th of July (this Thursday) so for the last 3 weeks i've been dealing with this range problem. I obviously don’t know how the previous owners took care of the battery and their habits but I don’t think it could’ve been so bad to the point where I'm losing almost 50% range! This is my first Tesla so I wasn't familiar with these numbers or if it was just a normal thing with the range being inaccurate. I assumed maybe because of it's age ? But even then I don't think it would take that much of a toll on the battery. I've used both the Rated and Ideal ranges and they just come out super inaccurate. When i have it set to percentage it's almost as if each mile i drive i lose 1%. So far I've been only charging to 90% at home with a nema 14-50 outlet so Im pretty sure i haven’t contributed to any of this range loss. The estimated range on a 90% charge on rated is about 221 and ideal is 193. Anyone with a similar build, how is your range doing? Do you have any tips on possibly regaining the range? (Is it even possible to regain range lol?) If you've had this problem and went for service, were they able to do anything about it?
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Any Range Help/Tips ? ('17 Model X )
- Thread starter JoeBasquiat
- Start date
Vaillant
Member
Your average Wh/mile is not normal. Are these super short trips on very hot/cold days? Which wheel/tire combo do you have? Are you driving 100 mph?
To me it doesn’t sound like a battery capacity issue, rather it is the super high power usage rate.
You should be somewhere between 350 and 450, give or take. Our X averages about 380 with the 20” wheels.
To me it doesn’t sound like a battery capacity issue, rather it is the super high power usage rate.
You should be somewhere between 350 and 450, give or take. Our X averages about 380 with the 20” wheels.
Vaillant
Member
Here is another thread where you can get a sense of the “normal” Wh/mile:
Model X Performance - is this wh/m normal
Model X Performance - is this wh/m normal
Have you ever had a wheel alignment? Poor alignment can easily cause increased energy consumption.
Here are some overall informational things about range with electric cars. Here in an approximately ranked order is how much energy things use. I'm skipping numbers kind of to show how far spaced these factors are:
#1 Moving the car--Speed and wind resistance is huge on this, and it's by far the biggest energy draw.
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#4 Heat--People asked me when I got the car how much the A/C affected range, but were shocked to hear that heat is WAY bigger. Gas cars are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline as heat out the radiator and tailpipe just to keep from melting themselves down, so it's always "free" to use that to heat the inside of the car. Electrics are so efficient and run so cool, there's not much excess, so heating the cabin is just like running an electric space heater, which is a pretty big energy suck in the winter. But helpful tip: if you can do a bit more with seat heaters and little less with heating cabin air to a high temp, that's more efficient because there is so much loss through the glass windows, etc.
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#20 A/C--Noticeable drag on efficiency, but much less than heating.
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#8150 Everything else--Seriously, this is so far down, nothing else is measurable compared to driving, heating, and cooling. People talk about trying to conserve energy from wipers or headlights or turning down screen brightness, or Bluetooth, or stereo volume, etc. None of that ever matters or will have any noticeable effect, so don't worry about it.
OK, now for your specific case.
But this is aspect is mostly self solving. You don't need to care about total driving range when you're doing 18 or 20 miles because the car has plenty. On longer drives of traveling, that's when range would matter, but then it has time for the heating and cooling to stabilize, and that energy use drops off a lot, so it doesn't hurt on the longer drives as much.
And the two last things I could think of that might actually be something wrong would be possibly alignment, as @DCGOO said or I've also heard of a few people who had a brake caliper be stuck and dragging on the rotor. That's like lightly having brakes on all the time, so of course messes up efficiency. So those two things could be checked.
#1 Moving the car--Speed and wind resistance is huge on this, and it's by far the biggest energy draw.
...
...
#4 Heat--People asked me when I got the car how much the A/C affected range, but were shocked to hear that heat is WAY bigger. Gas cars are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline as heat out the radiator and tailpipe just to keep from melting themselves down, so it's always "free" to use that to heat the inside of the car. Electrics are so efficient and run so cool, there's not much excess, so heating the cabin is just like running an electric space heater, which is a pretty big energy suck in the winter. But helpful tip: if you can do a bit more with seat heaters and little less with heating cabin air to a high temp, that's more efficient because there is so much loss through the glass windows, etc.
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...
#20 A/C--Noticeable drag on efficiency, but much less than heating.
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...
#8150 Everything else--Seriously, this is so far down, nothing else is measurable compared to driving, heating, and cooling. People talk about trying to conserve energy from wipers or headlights or turning down screen brightness, or Bluetooth, or stereo volume, etc. None of that ever matters or will have any noticeable effect, so don't worry about it.
OK, now for your specific case.
I second this question. A lot of people like the tough mean kind of look of a car with those big metal rims and low profile thin tires. Fine if you like that, but that is a very direct sacrifice on efficiency. And if the previous owner had those on there and mostly drove in city and didn't care about long range, then that's cool, but you might consider smaller rims if you want better range/efficiency.
Also this. If you are trying to measure efficiency from just short trips of like 5-10 miles, that's going to look pretty terrible. The first few miles have a lot of extra energy use from some initial heating/cooling of the battery and cabin. So watt hours per mile looks pretty bad on short trips. I also have that factor of consuming twice the "rated miles" on my 2 mile drive to and from work in the winter, and I don't have big rims that would make it worse. But even in summer, it's going to look bad at first from heavy air conditioning.
But this is aspect is mostly self solving. You don't need to care about total driving range when you're doing 18 or 20 miles because the car has plenty. On longer drives of traveling, that's when range would matter, but then it has time for the heating and cooling to stabilize, and that energy use drops off a lot, so it doesn't hurt on the longer drives as much.
And the two last things I could think of that might actually be something wrong would be possibly alignment, as @DCGOO said or I've also heard of a few people who had a brake caliper be stuck and dragging on the rotor. That's like lightly having brakes on all the time, so of course messes up efficiency. So those two things could be checked.
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