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Any reason not to let Firestone mount my wheels?

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After about 70 days from order to delivery, I should finally be picking up my MS this weekend. I ordered wheels from Jason and tires from Tire Rack, which were delivered to a local Firestone. Any reason not to let them do the mounting, balancing, etc?
 
I've let Firestone replace tires on my Model S. I always like to ask if they've worked on a Model S before. If not I go to another location. Make sure they get the tire torque right. It's a bit higher than for most cars. The actual amount is in the vehicle manual.
 
I've never had good luck with Firestone. I know their performance undoubtedly varies by location, but they're so inclined to upsell services and I've found their work to be generally poor quality in more than one location that I swore off Firestone years ago.
 
Firestone here has been a train wreck for anything but alignments. One of the stores here, has a guy that all he does is alignments. And I'll be damned, he gets it PERFECT every time. I have not had to bring the Model S in to Firestone, but have had all my alignments (Lifetime alignment package is worth it, paid for in 2 alignments) done at this one location. Specifically, the ex wife's car..... She liked driving up and onto the curb......


As for tires, I suppose it should be ok with them.
Locally, I trust the shop across the street from Firestone, Richlonns Goodyear (I think Richlonns is just a local chain though). I did a video on Richllons Goodyear, and they do a excellent job with my tires, and even include lifetime rotation and balance every 6k miles, weather I bring my own tires or purchase theirs (I purchase theirs, as the stock Tesla Goodyear Eagle RS A2's are $520/set INSTALLED, cant beat the price).


/Caffeine_High
 
Torque is 130 ft-lb. That number is more common on trucks and SUVs than cars. Show them how to put it in jack mode before putting it on the lift of you have air suspension. That's about it.

This. I've had good experiences with my local Firestone and my S goes there now like my other cars. I showed them the torque and how to engage jack mode and the provide me trouble-free and upcharge-free lifetime alignment.
 
The biggest potential issue is if they don't know to remove the bolt that (unnecessarily) holds the rotor to the hub, you could warp your rotors over time. If your new wheels do not have a cutout for that bolt (most don't) you can simply remove it. If you don't remove the bolt, your wheels will not sit flush on the hub. Some people shave the bolt down, but that is a waste of time. Just remove the bolts and save them in case you ever want to reinstall them again.

Functionally they don't do anything since the wheel / lug nuts hold your rotor to the hub, not that little bolt. It's just there so when the brake assembly is put on your car at the factory the rotors won't fall off the car as it moves down the line without wheels on it.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's a picture of the bolt (screw?) for reference.

bolt.jpg
 
Checklist for non Tesla shops doing tire work:

1. Alert mechanic about Jack mode/specific jack points/must use puck on stand - do not let them apply lift to battery pack. Hand lift only.
2. Do not use impact wrench as it will damage factory bolts
3. Remove rotor retention bolt of not factory wheels
4. TPMS is location specific. If rotating, they must be re-synced in new locations. If new, Tesla must sync the new sensors with the car.
5. Torque nuts to 130 ft. lbs.

Am I missing anything else?
 
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I'm about to take mine to a nearby place for some minor touch-up on a wheel (pothole got it). I printed off the torque numbers and the jacking procedures from the online manual to give to the service guys. Other than that I'd do what I normally would - use Firestone, Discount Tire, whatever - as someone else said - it's just a car.
 
I've mentioned this in other threads, but I keep a laminated copy of the Jacking/Lifting page (as well as the towing page) from the PDF owners manual in the glove box. I leave it on the seat whenever I take the car in to a non-Tesla shop for tire work. It shows everything to do with Jack Mode, lifting points and such.
 
Checklist for non Tesla shops doing tire work:

1. Alert mechanic about Jack mode/specific jack points/must use puck on stand - do not let them apply lift to battery pack. Hand lift only.
2. Do not use impact wrench as it will damage factory bolts
3. Remove rotor retention bolt of not factory wheels
4. TPMS is location specific. If rotating, they must be re-synced in new locations. If new, Tesla must sync the new sensors with the car.
5. Torque nuts to 130 ft. lbs.

Am I missing anything else?

I'm getting my first tire rotation today so this is a great list. In regard to the TPMS, the Owners Manual says:

Resetting the TPMS Sensors
After replacing one or more wheels, the TPMS sensors must be reset to ensure tire pressure warnings are accurate. However, note that the TPMS sensors do not need to be reset after replacing a tire or rotating wheels.
 
After about 70 days from order to delivery, I should finally be picking up my MS this weekend. I ordered wheels from Jason and tires from Tire Rack, which were delivered to a local Firestone. Any reason not to let them do the mounting, balancing, etc?

I had a leaking tire fixed by a local Firestone shop -- it was the only nearby place open on a Sunday. They had never worked on a Model S before so I stood buy to be sure they followed correct jacking procedures. They did a good job with no problems.