Any tried to recalibrate battery. Down 4% under 10,000 miles

[rush6410]

I am at 26k miles and at 1% degradation. On long trips the best way to estimate battery needed is to use the trip planner and pay attention to the % remaining at destination. Pick a % that you are comfortable with adjusting your driving criteria to meet your desired % remaining. For example, I had a 166 mile trip planned. The trip planner gives me a % remaining at destination. I am comfortable with arriving at 10% remaining. I adjust my speed and settings (range mode) to maintain the remaining estimate. During winter with high winds, that might mean I am cruising at 65. During the summer with no wind, I am cruising at 80. In addition, you may need to adjust your speed depending on real time condition changes to maintain the % remaining.

 

[srharris22]

The range number next to the charge indicator is nearly useless IMO. It is just a relative indicator of how much charge is left in the battery. It does not take into account any driving history, let alone a guess at the future. Just set your car to indicate % and call it a day. If you need a guess at range, bring up the energy graph. Even the energy graph cannot predict your future driving, But it at least takes driving history into account for the last 5,15 or 30 miles (you pick). It even takes into account extra energy consumed by the climate system during very cold or hot weather.

I doubt anyone would accept an ICE fuel gauge calibrated in miles remaining. Some cars make that "remaining range" available through a display option. Eventually you will develop a "feel" for how far you can get on that "42%" you have left.

Had this discussion a few times. I have a feel for what 200 miles gets me. On a normal day 70% or better will be what I can get, however seeing 70% if battery tells me nothing until doing math backwards.
So for me math from miles is simpler than from %

 

[Shock-On-T]

This is a concept that was sometimes done with NiCad batteries.
I wouldn't suggest doing it in your car. Taking it to 0% isn't good on the battery. It also isn't something recommended with Lion batteries.

Of course I believe that Tesla reserves some of the bottom of the battery to keep you from damaging it, but is the potential worth something you may never need?

Just drive the car and be happy

Charging 0% and 100% bad for the battery, but good for the gauge. Helps the car calibrate its max/min.
But doesn't actually increase range, just makes the range calc more accurate.

 

[DCGOO]

Correct. It should never be *required.* But if the opportunity presents itself, for example if you are already at 15%, and you can safely run it down, go for it. I would not be afraid of a very low value on a very occasional basis. Same thing at the top end. Problem is (for me) is a rarely get that close and am otherwise in a hurry. Maybe next time, heheh

 

[Sonic_78]

Change the range to %, because 100% is always 100%

 

[Need]

Down 4% is actually more accurate, why would you want to change it? If I have my way, I want my display to down about 15% which is exactly how much I have in real. If I charge to full at 237, I could drive about 200 miles max.

 

[srharris22]

Ok so I ran battery down to 0% and 0 miles (was already down to 30 miles due to some extra trips. This is my TeslaFi report
1) shows 3%-99% for how much charge was added
2) 69.2 kWh was added

Unsure how accurate their info is since it’s based on Tesla data.

So my thoughts are if that’s true then there is 4% unaccounted Which would be ~9 miles range
When I got to 0 miles/0% I had not gotten any warnings so I wonder if I didn’t have more range in there. If so and I went further, would the battery system recognize this and then add that to our total?
Just my thoughts. I don’t care to get this low often, so unsure how much I’m gonna push it going forward.
PS total charge was 225 miles via our mobile connector at home