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Anybody install an Ohmmu battery in their X? Looking for feedback.

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Isn't an issue for Li batteries, such as Ohmmu, is very poor performance when really cold, i.e., much worse the lead acid? In California that doesn't matter, but I live in Maine.
You are not spinning a starter to crank a cold ICE with thick engine oil. When the computer fully boots the DC-to-DC converter is supplying 14 volts. The 12v should warm up when it is being used and supply more capacity as well ... but that doesn't matter much with the DC-to-DC converter going. It will just make sure the 12v battery is topped off.
 
You are not spinning a starter to crank a cold ICE with thick engine oil. When the computer fully boots the DC-to-DC converter is supplying 14 volts. The 12v should warm up when it is being used and supply more capacity as well ... but that doesn't matter much with the DC-to-DC converter going. It will just make sure the 12v battery is topped off.
Obviously there is no starter; that wasn't the question. My question was in very cold weather in one more likely to have problem operating the car when it has been sitting for a long time (weeks) in sub-zero weather. If the 12 V goes down, one can't get into the car. I don't believe the HV battery charges the 12 V battery when the HV is below 20% SoC. With a dead !12V one can't even open the charge port, either. The car needs to be "jump started".
 
... been sitting for a long time (weeks) in sub-zero weather. ..
Sitting for weeks is new information. Still how much capacity does it take to boot the computer. Not sure how many weeks we are talking about (>1 month)? If I really had that issue I would leave it plugged in and charge occasionally and use the preheat cabin delayed charge option assuming 12v rail is awake. Also I'd use that $30 hardware to monitor test. I can't imagine this is an issue. Do they have non-heated main HV pack Nissan LEAFs, as an example, in northern states, Canada, etc (ie. lithium battery in the cold even if not 12v).
 
Sitting for weeks is new information. Still how much capacity does it take to boot the computer. Not sure how many weeks we are talking about (>1 month)? If I really had that issue I would leave it plugged in and charge occasionally and use the preheat cabin delayed charge option assuming 12v rail is awake. Also I'd use that $30 hardware to monitor test. I can't imagine this is an issue. Do they have non-heated main HV pack Nissan LEAFs, as an example, in northern states, Canada, etc (ie. lithium battery in the cold even if not 12v).
The airport I park at ( for months at a time) does not have any charger. I have frequently asked the airport manager if I could plug into the exterior 5-20, “No.”
 
Back from a 6700+ mile road trip stretching from the north in Jasper AB Canada to Los Vegas NV with temps hitting ~100F. All that while running a Dometic fridge 24x7 for 25 days straight off of the 12v circuit from the Tesla Model X electric parking brake plug (left driver footwell -- set up a few years back).

Here are the last 15ish days of the 25 days.

GocDOh7.jpg
 
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I received another software update last night (9/16) and noticed that instead of a battery voltage sag on the OEM battery that the Ohmmu battery voltage raises a little when the Tesla DC-to-DC converter stops during the OTA update. I had another OTA on 9/9 and looked back and saw the same thing.

7j27KJo.jpg
 
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Back from a week 2000 mile road trip where the 12v DC fridge ran for the entire time. Ohmmu is still going strong.

kbExs43.jpg

Back from a 5300 mile road trip (3 wks). In the first week something happened and there was a dip that triggered a gtw w174 (service 12v).
Last couple weeks were solid. I disconnected the 12v neg after I got home since the 'tire config' change trick no longer works (short & less subsystems rebooting).
Re: disconnect 12v neg -- somewhat easy below the firemans loop if you have a long extension and swivel for your 1/2" socket.

clbDiTz.jpg


Last couple weeks were solid however.

DsFKDQP.jpg
 
I don’t know what the drop in voltage you measured was - I didn’t have that level of granularity from my monitor in my inverter (the only thing I had available, nothing on the inverter) but my 2016 X made it just over 2 weeks after the initial install with the Ohmmu, before the message came up. After the tire reset failed to change anything or clear the message, I also did the hard reset as instructed…. And the message was back within 48 hours. This was during a period of near continuous use, so the error happened while the car was fully powered up and the DC/DC was active.
 
It's for my 2017 75D, out of warranty. SC is far away and I don't want to wait around. I'd rather put some elbow grease in and get a good battery while I'm at it. But the reversed terminals with the short cables kinda worry me.

The reversed terminals make the cables closer to the two connection ends - Instead of the positive reaching across the battery from the right hand fuse box to the far left side for the terminal, the positive terminal is also on the right hand side of the battery so closer to the fuse box.

But I would make the drive to the service center and get the lead acid battery for your X. If the car decides it doesn’t like the Ohmmu for some reason (which seems like a decent possibility right now) you will have error messages and annoyances and be back into the frunk very soon - and that’s annoying. The service center’s price for the Atlas battery also seems to be significantly cheaper than what an AGM costs from Advance Auto or Autozone. I’m not normally someone that suggests dealer parts and pricing, but this is a rare case where they seem to be the cheapest option with the least hassles.

If you have access to a cutting wheel, you may find it a lot easier to swap the battery in the future if you cut away *most* of the front of the ridiculous metal bucket that they have the battery installed in. Cut down both front sides from the top, and then across the front about 1/2” above the bottom, so that you leave a “lip” at the bottom to retain the battery. The top clamp will provide more than enough security and you no longer have to dig out that bucket to swap out the battery. They should have designed it like this from the factory, saving about 4 lbs of useless steel weight.
 
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I don’t know what the drop in voltage you measured was - I didn’t have that level of granularity from my monitor in my inverter (the only thing I had available, nothing on the inverter) but my 2016 X made it just over 2 weeks after the initial install with the Ohmmu, before the message came up. After the tire reset failed to change anything or clear the message, I also did the hard reset as instructed…. And the message was back within 48 hours. This was during a period of near continuous use, so the error happened while the car was fully powered up and the DC/DC was active.
On the 3 wk road trip, I drove 2 weeks after that msg initially showed up and had a car fridge running 24x7 for all 3 weeks of that road trip (ala DC/DC active -- hills in my graph above are probably charges back up from the DC/DC).

I did have the 12v replace msg show up after the install but I think it was several weeks after the install. Tire config change back then reset it. I don't recall it showing up again.

My install was 22-Apr-2022 (15 months ago): Anybody install an Ohmmu battery in their X? Looking for feedback.
 
Just replaced my own batter from 2019 with another OEM. What a terrible batter design 😂
Access, removal, and install [url] is super annoying. I'm not sure how to know when my Ohmmu will need to be replaced. Admittedly, I have my old battery on a tricle charger and I take it with me in the lower truck area when I go on long road trips (with 12g wire to hook up in parallel like a jump box or to swap out worse case). So much for weight savings ... bahaha.
 
Access, removal, and install [url] is super annoying. I'm not sure how to know when my Ohmmu will need to be replaced. Admittedly, I have my old battery on a tricle charger and I take it with me in the lower truck area when I go on long road trips (with 12g wire to hook up in parallel like a jump box or to swap out worse case). So much for weight savings ... bahaha.

It's not difficult, just over engineered. I shot some footage and will post once I get it edited.