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Anyone ever changed paddle gear on “Gen3” door handle assy?

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I’ve seen plenty of videos and how to for the early versions. But never a Gen 3 with the hall effect sensor.
I got as far as sliding the shaft out to put the new gear on and realized it won’t slide out because the hall sensor is attached at the end, and there appears to be no way to remove it.
am I stuck replacing the entire assy?

thanks for any help
 
I hope everyone is filing NHTSA complaints over these door handles. They are a massive safety hazard! I replaced all of my 2.5 handles with gen 3 at my own expense but Tesla should really do the right thing and replace all Model S door handles with a safe design that first responders or the general public could open in an emergency if your vehicle is unlocked before they have to start breaking things.
 
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I’ve seen plenty of videos and how to for the early versions. But never a Gen 3 with the hall effect sensor.
I got as far as sliding the shaft out to put the new gear on and realized it won’t slide out because the hall sensor is attached at the end, and there appears to be no way to remove it.
am I stuck replacing the entire assy?

thanks for any help
If you turn the plastic ring that is over the hall sensor 90 degrees you can see how to remove it. Best is to heat the hall sensor a little because the plastic can break while removing the sensor but it is surely doable.

Sorry I don't have pictures for you but good luck
 
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But at least I learned a lot and have some extra parts so next time I think I can get it done quicker and just pay Service to program the handle

Sorry to hear that. Guess I was lucky then? Mine didn't lost his calibration when replacing the paddle gear. The sensor can only go one way onto the axle and isn't adjustable because that needs to be done with toolbox. Maybe the door handle module can be moved a little when you loosen the screws? How far off is the calibration?

I have tree gen2 handles and only one gen3 but at least the gen2 handles you can adjust yourself so surely I'm not going to upgrade them to gen3 when they break.
 
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So I first attended to change the paddle gear but finally gave up when I kept running into problems getting the hall sensor magnet off without breaking it.
And the SC said “it’s not possible” 😡
So purchased the entire Gen 3 module and put it in.
Maybe that’s why I need the recalibration? Because it’s a new module all together? Not sure. Anyway yeah the handle is out when it should be in and if you close the door it retracts amd the. Pops door back open every time.
Finally got it to stay closed I can at least drive it.
SC will use toolbox to calibrate for me for $20 so it’s not the end of the world I guess
 
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On another note I started rebuilding the original door assy and figured out the hall sensor. I rebuilt it all back together woth a new paddle gear. I’m sure it would work perfect now if I ever need it.
I have figured out the details now and could do this much faster next time.
Minus this whole recalibrating thing.
 
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I’ve seen plenty of videos and how to for the early versions. But never a Gen 3 with the hall effect sensor.
I got as far as sliding the shaft out to put the new gear on and realized it won’t slide out because the hall sensor is attached at the end, and there appears to be no way to remove it.
am I stuck replacing the entire assy?

thanks for any help
I just did this on my door handle which I did not know was a Gen 3. It was pain to repair wasn't even sure if I was going to successfully repair it. I finagled with sensor enough where eventually it came out and after replacing the paddle gear and putting everything back together it did work.
 
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@y2khd
thats great. I have since learned the sensor is relatively simple to get off. Thanks to another forum member I was told to look closely at the sensor it has a tiny arrow printed on the side. If you turn the sensor opposite of the arrow(to remove) the sensor will release and you can slide it off. Pretty easy and it appears to really only go back on one way so I didn’t need to mark it or worry from that stand point.

the real problem for me was after I got it all back to together and installed in the door. My handle was not moving in sync with the other 3 handles. It was trying to go out when the others were going in and vice versa. I ended up taking it down to the SC where it took the the guys 5 minutes to use the laptop and “calibrate” the handle.
Is there no real way around the “calibration “ of the handle with the toolbox laptop software?
kind of a bummer after all the work to replace it to have to go to SC anyway. Even tho they only needed $20 bucks and a few minutes.
 
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EvFixMe in Costa Mesa, CA replaced mine It's apparently a lot harder to do then the 1st and 2nd gens, needless to say they will only be replacing third gen handles now.
Ha, I just saw this thread and I was going to say don't do it and just replace it... They come apart, but its a pain. Maybe if the right tools were made they would be easier, however there is still a chance to screw up the calibration and mess it up.

Oh I should have read the whole thread before replying, yep the calibration can be an issue.
 
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Sorry to hear that. Guess I was lucky then? Mine didn't lost his calibration when replacing the paddle gear. The sensor can only go one way onto the axle and isn't adjustable because that needs to be done with toolbox. Maybe the door handle module can be moved a little when you loosen the screws? How far off is the calibration?

I have tree gen2 handles and only one gen3 but at least the gen2 handles you can adjust yourself so surely I'm not going to upgrade them to gen3 when they break.
Should not need heat, but dont think we will be fixing another one...
 
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No need to heat anything, It is pain to replace the whole thing but it is possible to replace the paddle gear. I did not need any calibration. I think only time you need calibration is when you install a new assembly.
That must be it. I had been confused and uncertain of being able to rebuild the original assy when I couldnt get the sensor off, so I chickened out and purchased the entire assy to replace. After putting in the new one I started playing around with the original one and figured it out. I went ahead and rebuilt it with a new gear. I have it laying around for another day or for parts I guess if needed.
but maybe your right had I just put my original back in I wouldn’t have needed the calibration.
oh well glad to be done with it.
I appreciate everyones help on this project. I could definitely do this myself next time with what I learned.
 
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I also did the same thing by looking at the videos and attempted to do this on Saturday. Once I got way into it, I realized that the generation three is different than the generation one and two. I was able to succeed and get it replaced, but it did take me a majority of the day. The problem that I have now, is that the window is not dropping down as much when I open the door as it did before I started. Also now on the dash it is showing that the windows halfway open even though it is closed. I’ve seen some articles about calibrating the windows but again I wonder if it is different based on the year. I have a 2017. I tried some of the stuff I found online, it was unsuccessful. I’m also now getting notifications on my app that my driver’s door window is open which obviously it is not. Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to fix this problem on a 2017? Thanks in advance.
 
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