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Anyone have experience with these pre-cut tint kits?

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Has anyone purchased DIY tint kits for the 3 or Y? I'm looking at these and in theory it seems like a great idea, but wanted to be sure there isn't a catch. I'm very comfortable with the install - more so looking for experience with the material/pre-cut pieces. TIA!

 
The precut kits are pretty good, IF and only IF you have some know-how on how to install tints. I used to tint cars part-time in college and I can tell you that the trade is an art and not science. You have to know how to heat/shrink the film where necessary (due to curvatures in glass). You also need to know how to remove the film on the adhesive side of the tint without leaving fingerprints or trapping particles that causes bubbles. Then there's a certain skill that's required with the squeegy as well.

Here's the real kicker though, even if you manage all of the above, there's good chance it won't come out the way you want. Plus, if you wanted to re-do any of the windows, you will have to wait to receive another kit.

Even as an amateur tinter, I decided to pay another professional to do it. That way, I was able to get a peace of mind that the work and the material are covered as long as I own my Y. Yes, I know it can be expensive but I'd highly recommend it. It is really hard to put a price on experience but when you find a reputable shop, there is nothing better.
 
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I installed precuts on Myp a few weeks ago myself with my wife.
i watched some youtube videos beforehand to learn how to do it.
if your handy you can do it.
take your time.
do it inside of a garage if you can.
i bought my precuts from The Tint Effect - A Premier Elite 3M Window Film Installer/dealer.

i still had to use a razor to fine tune the sides, its not 100% precut!
Mine came out almost perfect
I used 25% Ultimate Film (2 Ply, 2 Mil, 99% UV / IR Protection.
it matches the rear really good
good luck!
 
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The precut kits are pretty good, IF and only IF you have some know-how on how to install tints. I used to tint cars part-time in college and I can tell you that the trade is an art and not science. You have to know how to heat/shrink the film where necessary (due to curvatures in glass). You also need to know how to remove the film on the adhesive side of the tint without leaving fingerprints or trapping particles that causes bubbles. Then there's a certain skill that's required with the squeegy as well.

Here's the real kicker though, even if you manage all of the above, there's good chance it won't come out the way you want. Plus, if you wanted to re-do any of the windows, you will have to wait to receive another kit.

Even as an amateur tinter, I decided to pay another professional to do it. That way, I was able to get a peace of mind that the work and the material are covered as long as I own my Y. Yes, I know it can be expensive but I'd highly recommend it. It is really hard to put a price on experience but when you find a reputable shop, there is nothing better.
Excellent points, including a few I hadn't thought about before. I may still attempt, but I have a better sense for where to pay more attention and maybe tempered expectations.
 
I installed precuts on Myp a few weeks ago myself with my wife.
i watched some youtube videos beforehand to learn how to do it.
if your handy you can do it.
take your time.
do it inside of a garage if you can.
i bought my precuts from The Tint Effect - A Premier Elite 3M Window Film Installer/dealer.

i still had to use a razor to fine tune the sides, its not 100% precut!
Mine came out almost perfect
I used 25% Ultimate Film (2 Ply, 2 Mil, 99% UV / IR Protection.
it matches the rear really good
good luck!
Good to know! I was initially just going to do front (25% ultimate, yep!) but after reading up on how rear windows are just smoked and don't block a ton of IR (and aren't as good on UV as good tint), I'm thinking about doing all windows (ceramic, 25% front and 70% rears and hatch).
 
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The roof glass has THREE thick pieces. The top layer is thick glass. The middle layer is a thick plastic dark laminate. The bottom layer is another thick glass. You can see all these pieces next to the rear hatch glass in the pic below, and see just how much thicker (and probably heavier) it is compared to all other glass pieces in the car. Kinda wish all the other glass was made this way but then again, that would make for a very heavy (and dark) car.

You can even see the tag that says LAMINATED on the inside of the glass.

Any tint put on the inside glass will help very little compared to what our dearest Saint Gobain, patron saint of automobile glass has installed (and blessed) for Tesla.
 

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The roof glass has THREE thick pieces. The top layer is thick glass. The middle layer is a thick plastic dark laminate. The bottom layer is another thick glass. You can see all these pieces next to the rear hatch glass in the pic below, and see just how much thicker (and probably heavier) it is compared to all other glass pieces in the car. Kinda wish all the other glass was made this way but then again, that would make for a very heavy (and dark) car.

You can even see the tag that says LAMINATED on the inside of the glass.

Any tint put on the inside glass will help very little compared to what our dearest Saint Gobain, patron saint of automobile glass has installed (and blessed) for Tesla.
Saint Gobain, patron saint of auto glass tints?
 
I just really feel I need to mention something that’s not being talked about very much if you tint too dark, especially with ceramic on these Teslas, it does something like trap in the heat or heat up the window too much and they end up cracking this more online of course you should read up on it if you’re going to tint your windows though, from what I understand I don’t think you should go above 20% at least not on the rear window look it up you’ll see a lot of people are having problems with that they’re very sensitive and if the glass heats up too much they crack. Some tint companies won’t tint with anything darker than 20% ceramic tint on any teslas.