Hi, I'd like to install an aftermarket subwoofer and amp in my Plaid. I haven't found anything on the web as of yet as to how to get this done. Please excuse my ignorance if someone has already posted an answer to something like this.
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Anyone Installed an After Market Amp and Sub in the Plaid?
- Thread starter AutoPassion
- Start date
Bumping this. The hatchback/open cabin nature of the MS is begging for a sub. I saw they made discreet 10/12” options installable in the rear left cubby zone of older gens. Not sure if it’s doable in a Refresh though. Hell, I’d even be okay with a big box in the trunk. I ran a JL Audio Microsub 12” in my last vehicle (07 TL Type S), and that thing has way less cargo room than the MS. One of the things I was most excited about in purchasing my Plaid was the prospect of having an open cabin. My Acura had a completely closed-off trunk with a tiny ski pass. From my experience with a friend’s Prius (also open cabin) with a cheaper 12” sub, it makes a huge difference in the audio experience.
Muzzman1
Active Member
I'm also waiting on a more viable option. I don't like the idea of having to install a battery to supply the 12V needed for the amps. Also, even more, the idea of switching inputs sounds horrible.
Don't car audio support 10v-16v? I suspect he installed the 12V battery because the car has a 16V low voltage circuit right?
Don't car audio support 10v-16v? I suspect he installed the 12V battery because the car has a 16V low voltage circuit right?
beatle
Active Member
I don't like how Schaeffer just says he's not going to get into the weeds of why a second battery is needed, but then he spends a lot of time talking about all the fluffy LEDs and magnets in the amp rack (that is then all hidden under the sub-frunk cover).
My guess is the battery provides a buffer between a step down converter that is installed elsewhere (perhaps direclty off the DC/DC converter) and powers a charger that trickle charges the new 12v battery.
My guess is the battery provides a buffer between a step down converter that is installed elsewhere (perhaps direclty off the DC/DC converter) and powers a charger that trickle charges the new 12v battery.
Kiss your warranty good bye with this upgrade, good luck trying to explain this to a Tesla SC if you have any issue with electronics in the car. I am sure they will blame this if you have a window open/close issue!!
vcor
Tech Specialist
I'm less worried about the warranty, so long as your mod is not the cause of some problem. I've had a number of electrical and audio mods in my Teslas, and never had a problem with warranty service.
A bigger problem on all Teslas with eFuses and especially the 16v Lithium-ion battery. Most ICE cars are in the 13.5-14v range already so 16v (15.7v) may not be much of an issue - just depends on the ratings of your amps. In the Tesla, all the power is very carefully monitored, and if you draw more power than it expects from any circuit, it's going to create a fault and likely shutdown that circuit path. You could tap the 12v accessory outlet and get 12 amps/150W or so, but most add-on amps take far more power. Anyway, I don't see a safe path to adding a high-power amp without a secondary battery with some kind of complex trickle charging. Good luck with your project!
A bigger problem on all Teslas with eFuses and especially the 16v Lithium-ion battery. Most ICE cars are in the 13.5-14v range already so 16v (15.7v) may not be much of an issue - just depends on the ratings of your amps. In the Tesla, all the power is very carefully monitored, and if you draw more power than it expects from any circuit, it's going to create a fault and likely shutdown that circuit path. You could tap the 12v accessory outlet and get 12 amps/150W or so, but most add-on amps take far more power. Anyway, I don't see a safe path to adding a high-power amp without a secondary battery with some kind of complex trickle charging. Good luck with your project!
OK I can probably help you guys understand this issue with an aftermarket sub in the refreshed s and x and the new Li-Ion 3 and y. It will the same issue across the board. All of these variants will required a secondary battery. Maybe with a lower powered amp (150w)you might be able to get away with it. The Li-ion battery in these vehicle are great for durability and reliability but not for inrush current and relative small storage capacity which isn't good to run amps. I believe the LI battery capacity is around 6.9 Ah vs 33 Ah on the previous Lead Acid battery How do I know, I've had to replace my Li ion battery because of trying to install a JL HD750. After talking with Matt from the YouTube video above, I'm going to give it a go again but with a secondary battery and a battery isolator installed I'm also going to fuse the secondary battery from the primary battery with a 30 amp fuse as . This makes the install process a little more complicated but it shouldn't be that big of a deal.
After talking to XS batteries. I don't think you need to step down the voltage depending on you're amp and battery selection. As long as the amp you choose can handle the higher voltage. Depending on the battery you select the battery can handle the 15.5v. XS recommended xp950. For just a subwoofer I you don't really need all of this extra input switching equipment. Just tap the sub in the back and you'll be just fine.
Are you doing a subwoofer? If so you can probably get it off the connection points of the subwoofer in the rear. Right at the subwoofer.
Hey Sean…how did your second battery install go? What isolater did you use? Would you mind sharing a basic diagram or pictures of how it’s wired and where you tapped into the primary battery or charging system?
Here a link to the other page with my install. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Amp and subwoofer install on the new Li-ion 12/15.5v AMD systems?
No not at all. The lc2ipro uses audio turn on and works the best for turning on and off the system. You should have to worry about isolating the batteries.
If ur going to go the added battery route make sure u get the 14v battery. Not the 12v on the AMD systems. The the AMD tesla charge at 15.5v. The 14v battery rated charge level is 16v. So the battery will always be slightly under charged somewhere in the ballpark or 90%. But undercharging is better than over charging on the 12v batteries.
Got it…have the 14v on order. Did you use a side terminal on the second battery for the positive feed from the 35amp circuit breaker? Again appreciate your help.
Here's the pics from my upgraded install. I still need to carpet my fiberglass box but it sound amazing. Tesla don't really rattle because of all the sound deading they have.
