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Anyone looking to sell a roadster right now?

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Thanks for all the advice!

I think I"ll place the order for the OVMS this weekend that sounds invaluable to have and not very spendy - I see there's a v3 and v4, I assume I want v4?

I was going to probably drive this thing (fairly sparingly) for a few months before deciding what to do on brakes & suspension but it does sound like those are worthwhile upgrades. Appears I do have the locking lug bolts though, where can I find the replacements?

Is there a good link for how to download the logs? Car only has 9500 miles so I'm not sure if this has been looked at before but would like to get myself educated on how best to care for the car.

By the way what is a typical good/bad ideal range at a full charge?

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Info on downloading the logs, and the parsers for looking at them can be found here: VMS Log Parser for Tesla Roadster You may find interesting things in the log, besides error codes. For example, a few months before I bought the car, it apparently went on a nice little cruise at just over 100 mph. Can't tell where, though.

As for the lug bolts, I got them through the Tesla Service Center. The full set of 4 cost just under $30, but they had to put one of their kids up as collateral to borrow a set of keyed sockets from another service center to get the rest off. It's not a panic item but a recommendation, and of course depends on your location's risk profile. See Looking for "D" wheel key for the full story.

I believe the v4 of the OVMS is mostly a newer processor board (though I thought it would be "v3.3"), to keep it in production as the chip industry moves forward. The main thing to get is one with the 4G modem, as the 3G stuff is being shut down. Otherwise, you'll eventually be stuck with only WiFi access to it. (And, yeah, the car's own 2G modem became useless years ago, so Tesla themselves have no remote access.)

"Standard Mode" charging (which you should use when at all possible) I think was something over 180 miles with a brand new battery. My car would charge to 174 when I first got it in late 2014. It's down to about 159 now. The car had ~26k miles when I got it; ~55k on it now. "Range mode" was about 212 last time I did one a few years ago. You'll get a little higher range in the summer, and a little lower in the winter, due to the ambient temps, but only by a mile or two. Don't get too obsessed over small changes.

Have fun!
 
Info on downloading the logs, and the parsers for looking at them can be found here: VMS Log Parser for Tesla Roadster You may find interesting things in the log, besides error codes. For example, a few months before I bought the car, it apparently went on a nice little cruise at just over 100 mph. Can't tell where, though.

As for the lug bolts, I got them through the Tesla Service Center. The full set of 4 cost just under $30, but they had to put one of their kids up as collateral to borrow a set of keyed sockets from another service center to get the rest off. It's not a panic item but a recommendation, and of course depends on your location's risk profile. See Looking for "D" wheel key for the full story.

I believe the v4 of the OVMS is mostly a newer processor board (though I thought it would be "v3.3"), to keep it in production as the chip industry moves forward. The main thing to get is one with the 4G modem, as the 3G stuff is being shut down. Otherwise, you'll eventually be stuck with only WiFi access to it. (And, yeah, the car's own 2G modem became useless years ago, so Tesla themselves have no remote access.)

"Standard Mode" charging (which you should use when at all possible) I think was something over 180 miles with a brand new battery. My car would charge to 174 when I first got it in late 2014. It's down to about 159 now. The car had ~26k miles when I got it; ~55k on it now. "Range mode" was about 212 last time I did one a few years ago. You'll get a little higher range in the summer, and a little lower in the winter, due to the ambient temps, but only by a mile or two. Don't get too obsessed over small changes.

Have fun!
Thank you this is all so helpful for a new owner! Really excited about the roadster but some of this diagnostic stuff I couldn’t quite figure out until digging into the links you provided. I did find out how to look at the CAC too and the car is downloading the logs now.

The car only has 9500 miles on it but the CAC seems very low at 131.5 😬 this has me really worried and nervous. For such low miles it should be much higher shouldn’t it? I don’t think it’s been driven much at all in the past 6 months or so but was always kept plugged in to 110V (which I have it plugged into right now). Could it just need to be driven? I’m waiting on the title to arrive so I won’t be able to drive it until this weekend. For now it’s just staring at me in the garage.

The log file appears to only go back to mid-Nov of 2021 after I downloaded it, and I did not see anything alarming in there but granted this is the first time I've ever looked at one really.
 
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The "real" health of the battery is a function of both use (miles) and time, so the fact that it's some 10 years old will be a factor even if it's got low miles on it. The estimated health is CAC - Calculated Amphour Capacity. "Calculated" is the key word here. It's an estimate, calculated by the car based on a bunch of factors. Over time and use, the car tries to figure out how the battery is performing, but without a lot of experience, that estimate tends to drift. Experiencing the two ends of the charge state (but being careful to stay away from the bottom end!!) can help the car get a better estimate.

My 2010 Roadster has about 55k miles on it, and the battery CAC is around 136, so by comparison yours is perhaps a bit low and likely just needs more experience with the state of the world. You might try doing a Range charge and then going for a long drive. Charge it back up (on standard), and see what happens. Charging on a 240v charger (e.g. a public Level 2 station, if you don't have access at home) can help too, as it enables the car to better manage the battery's temperature during charging.
 
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Thank you @gregd that helps set my mind at ease a bit, perhaps its just a matter of getting this girl some exercise. I will do as you suggested, giving it a range charge and then taking it on a long drive perhaps next week sometime. The reality is I won't usually be taking it for long drives so the range that its showing right now isn't really an issue for me, but if there are any battery issues of course I want to remedy them before they become anything major. We do have an early model S and an X so I can use their chargers too (with the CAN adapter I just got from Henry Sharp!) if that will help things.

I had thought that the 120v charging was better for the battery? or perhaps a 240v charge now and then is good too?

I'll update with my results!
 
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I had thought that the 120v charging was better for the battery? or perhaps a 240v charge now and then is good too?

I'll update with my results!
Congrats on your new ride. She’s a beauty!
Charging with 240v at 24-32amps (some prefer 12-16amp for storage) is much better. It will allow for more efficient ac cooling of the ESS and it will not fault with the GFI on the 120v plug or on the wall. I think people have implied that 120v is better because charging at the lower amp maybe better for battery longevity? But this is at the trade off with possible GFI tripping and causing bricking of the ESS if it’s not monitored closely.
 
Some people have reported that charging with the 120V cable results in a few more miles of range than with the 240V EVSE. The theory is that trickling in the charge allows filling the last little bit.
Thanks all. I'm still waiting on the title to arrive in the mail so I can get it registered but as soon as I do I'm planning to carve out a day to take it on a long drive and do just as you all suggested. Range charge first, take it for a long drive then charge it back up on my 240v "modern" Tesla charger (with CAN adapter). I'll post the results sometime next week when I have them! Fingers crossed
 
I keep an eye on the listings on Gruber’s site, and of course eBay, Autotrader, etc. I have also chatted with Carl Medlock (what a wealth of info!) and I’m very strongly considering one of the roadsters he has stashed away but thought I should see if anyone else is looking to sell theirs right now too. I started looking about 2 years ago and I’m kicking myself for waiting obviously. Looking to make a purchase within the next month finally. Please PM me if you have one to sell. I’m planning to keep it for a long long time so i want to explore all my options (even explored importing EU spec - which turned out to be impossible). My budget started out around $110k and there are a few good options for sale in that range, but I’m willing to go a bit higher for the right specs. I'd prefer to find something that’s not red or black since I’ve already had a red S and black X.

I know the rarest of the rare will be well out of my price range certainly. Thanks all, and I’m looking forward to finally joining the roadster community. Located in Phoenix, AZ.
I have a 2010 Roadster (red, sorry) #837 with about 4,300 miles that I was thinking about selling since I don't use it. Let me know if you're still looking for one. Located in CT.
 
I forgot to add that it includes a hard top, two Clipper Creek Chargers, and a charging extension cable with a number of plug types
I did find one a few weeks ago, red actually lol. It was local and a good deal so I figured if I tire of the red, I can always do a wrap on it. I'm sure if you decide to sell yours, finding a buyer will be pretty easy though they seem to be going like hotcakes lately!