Anyone polish their car with light cutting compound or finish polish?

[acarney]

I have a dual action polisher that I bought years ago when I owned an old (but looked pretty good) Audi A6. It was a white car and I honestly never really saw great results from using the DA, I suspect partially because it was a white car (which hides small swirls really well) and because I only used the lightest cutting compound or finishing polish.

However, this is the first time I’ve had a gleaming brand new car AND a dark color (blue) and I’m a little worried on using a polisher on it. BUT, at the same time I feel like I have the best candidate in my ownership history for a really beautiful glowing finish so I do want to polish it...

Anyone have any tips or products or just stories on using a dual action polisher on their dark colored Model 3? I’m thinking of using Chemical Guys products, the V36 Optical Grade Cutting Polish (since everyone says the Model 3 has soft paint) and V38 Optical Grade Final Polish. I would also buy new pads from them since mine are old and worn. From the YouTube videos they make it look pretty dummy proof, but I’m still a little worried.

So any stories with doing very light swirl removal and then finishing polish?

 

[N54TT]

You probably needed to go more aggressive with your A6. As with any car start with least aggressive and work your way up until you get the results you’re looking for. Only tesla paint I’ve worked on is my black p3d+ but it has been the softest paint I’ve worked on. I found I didn’t need a cutting polish and was happy with results from just a finishing polish.

Here are some before and after’s using a PC7424, some old menzerna po106 (finishing polish) and lake country white foam pad....which is a pretty mild combo. This was after two passes. I can’t remember but I might have later switched to an orange pad/PO106 and got the same results with one pass.

 

[Mastequila]

I used the blackfire line of products and am happy with the results. I've been using them for years on my cars.

I washed it with dawn soap, then used a finishing sponge (replaces clay and much easier on paint) then I used their fire over ice line of products. A bit time consuming but the car looks great.

I have blue also.

 

[TypeRx]

You shouldn't worry about starting with a very light or finishing polish -- do a test area and go from there. I recently did a light polish only (Menzerna) using an orange pad on my DA. In hindsight I could have gone a little more aggressive on a couple small areas (like near the door handles) but since I have white (bought a demo with 1650 miles) it really doesn't add much.

With a new car I'd recommend a strong wash, decontamination, wash again, then clay. From there a light polish would make sense unless you need more. Then another wash/diluted alcohol wipe down and clay/seal/coat (whatever you plan on doing).

 

[acarney]

I used the blackfire line of products and am happy with the results. I've been using them for years on my cars.

I washed it with dawn soap, then used a finishing sponge (replaces clay and much easier on paint) then I used their fire over ice line of products. A bit time consuming but the car looks great.

I have blue also.

Finishing sponge? I’m not familiar with that... I was going to clay it with lots of lubricant, but if that could introduce scratches I might be interested going the sponge route. Any details or links with that?

 

[acarney]

You shouldn't worry about starting with a very light or finishing polish -- do a test area and go from there. I recently did a light polish only (Menzerna) using an orange pad on my DA. In hindsight I could have gone a little more aggressive on a couple small areas (like near the door handles) but since I have white (bought a demo with 1650 miles) it really doesn't add much.

With a new car I'd recommend a strong wash, decontamination, wash again, then clay. From there a light polish would make sense unless you need more. Then another wash/diluted alcohol wipe down and clay/seal/coat (whatever you plan on doing).

I was thinking of going with chemical guys HydroSlick afterwards. I don’t know if I want to go down the route if full on ceramic since there is a slight chance I might get additional PPF down the road when funds allow (though looking unlikely, especially if a sealer helps cut down swirling) and it sounds like the HydroSlick only lasts about a year. That makes me think that the costing wears down and isn’t as strongly bonded as a full ceramic that boasts 5+ years or “lifetime” longevity.

 

[TypeRx]

By "finishing sponge" I assume he means a clay towel or similar rather than a traditional clay bar. A clay towel is easier to use, quicker, and less prone to issues of picking up grit/dirt if dropped, etc. I use the Blackfire clay mitt because I got it like 1/2 off but there are plenty of alternatives. BLACKFIRE Clay Mitt

There is no need to ceramic coat especially if you like to upkeep the exterior. A good sealant is a great choice. I've used Sonax Polymer Net Shield in the past with great results and there are other similar products available. I would definitely recommend coating the wheels though. A sealer won't really help reduce swirling...and frankly speaking, ceramic coats will show swirls as well (but may at least protect your clear coat). To avoid swirling, you need to make sure your wash and especially drying technique is excellent.

 

[JasontheBeaver]

I polish Teslas for a living. Advice on a forum like this will be all over the map because we all have different expectations for what is "easy" and what constitutes "I use _______ and it looks great!"
I also earn my living from people watching Youtube to learn how to polish their Teslas; because many of them end up at my shop to correct what they've done. All this doesn't mean you can't do it yourself, just tread very lightly (which it sounds like you're doing).

Only since you asked, here's what I do on brand new Teslas that need no significant paint correction like sanding marks, buffer swirls, etc. Once the vehicle is washed, then clayed with one of these clay towels...
Optimum Hyper Polish with a 21mm Rupes polisher using a Uro-Tech foam polishing pad. Buy a bag of those yellow microfiber towels from Costco, dampen one with a spray bottle of diluted ONR and use that to wipe off your polish residue. Having a bright light like a Fenix helps with monitoring your progress. For protection use either Optimum Car Wax, or Opti Hyper Seal.
Or if you're doing all that work why not protect it even better with Optimum's Gloss Coat, their consumer grade ceramic coating? Almost fool-proof to install.

Others can get great results from other methods, this is just what I have found is the simplest, cheapest, and yields results far better than most anyone else. Good luck!

 

[acarney]

To avoid swirling, you need to make sure your wash and especially drying technique is excellent.

I have a couple swirls where I was a little hard when drying, but I’ve actually got a lot better at that and I’m happy with my results. It’s not pro level but it won’t bug me with how it looks.

What I’m calling swirls are from every day touching. I can’t feel them at all in the clear coat and you can only see them under sharp light. Mainly around the door handles and a little on the trunk area (I assume from closing it with my hand). It’s crazy because neither myself or my passenger wear any rings and I know I’ve been ultra careful about buttons cuffs or zippers on the sleeves of jackets and stuff, yet I still have a bunch of super light marks around the door handles. I feel like my finger nails or actual fingers are scratching it... which I would get if it was covered in dust and sand, but I’ve actually kept it really clean too since it’s sill only about 6 months old and I’m swooning over it

Speaking of which... the same pads and polish that I use for the paint, could I go over the door handles with that... or is that going to marked them up like crazy and turn them into like brushed aluminum? I want to put clear PPF over the door handles but my kit showed up a couple weeks after I got the car and seriously by then they already were lightly marked and looked even worse when under a film...

 

[acarney]

I polish Teslas for a living. Advice on a forum like this will be all over the map because we all have different expectations for what is "easy" and what constitutes "I use _______ and it looks great!"
I also earn my living from people watching Youtube to learn how to polish their Teslas; because many of them end up at my shop to correct what they've done. All this doesn't mean you can't do it yourself, just tread very lightly (which it sounds like you're doing).

Only since you asked, here's what I do on brand new Teslas that need no significant paint correction like sanding marks, buffer swirls, etc. Once the vehicle is washed, then clayed with one of these clay towels...
Optimum Hyper Polish with a 21mm Rupes polisher using a Uro-Tech foam polishing pad. Buy a bag of those yellow microfiber towels from Costco, dampen one with a spray bottle of diluted ONR and use that to wipe off your polish residue. Having a bright light like a Fenix helps with monitoring your progress. For protection use either Optimum Car Wax, or Opti Hyper Seal.
Or if you're doing all that work why not protect it even better with Optimum's Gloss Coat, their consumer grade ceramic coating? Almost fool-proof to install.

Others can get great results from other methods, this is just what I have found is the simplest, cheapest, and yields results far better than most anyone else. Good luck!

This is kind of what I’m looking for. I know everyone has their snake oil they KNOW produces the best results, but I’m looking for more of “hey, if you use this level pad, a finishing polish, and don’t apply pressure then there is a VERY low chance you’ll have a million swirls now instead of one or two.” Or “DO NOT use anything more aggressive than medium cutting compound or you’re going to F up your paint unless you seriously know what you’re doing.”

I know the risk reward plays in... but I don’t need a huge reward. Just a bit more glow and maybe super fine swirl removal in 10% of the surfaces. So hopefully I can go very gentle and gain some improvement with very little chance of screwing if up, lol.

Speaking of corrections. I have two or three half dollars sized marks on the car that are a perfect circle and in the right light almost look like a dull residue after peeling off a sticker or something. I’ve been told those are areas that have been corrected by Tesla after the paint shop to sand down burrs or dirt or something that got on it during painting. I’m sure you’ve seen this before. I know prices are all over the place based on area, but what kind of ballpark do you think I should expect if/when I get those fixed. It’s about 3 spots on mainly flat panels. Are we talking $200 or so, $500 or so, or more because they’ll have to do a large area to blend or something?

This is what one of them looks like...

 

[Mastequila]

I guess it's not a finishing sponge but a prep sponge. Have used this on my corvette, F150 and model 3. Find it works well and you can't screw up the paint. Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge

 

[tlr1000]

Just remember there is a huge variation of DA polishers out there. My first DA (porter Cable) has a pretty short throw - maybe 7mm whereas the beastly Rupes mentioned by Jason above has a 21mm throw. This makes a huge difference when it comes to the ability to correct (ie take out swirls). Throw is also not the whole equation. Torque of the motor, chemical used, and pad type all play a factor. Not saying the PC is not capable but it is a lot less effective all other things being equal - N54TT's pics show that a PC can do correction quite well. The Rupes is a bit overkill for most DIYers, not to mention cost-prohibitive. I still want one though .

 

[N54TT]

Just remember there is a huge variation of DA polishers out there. My first DA (porter Cable) has a pretty short throw - maybe 7mm whereas the beastly Rupes mentioned by Jason above has a 21mm throw. This makes a huge difference when it comes to the ability to correct (ie take out swirls). Throw is also not the whole equation. Torque of the motor, chemical used, and pad type all play a factor. Not saying the PC is not capable but it is a lot less effective all other things being equal - N54TT's pics show that a PC can do correction quite well. The Rupes is a bit overkill for most DIYers, not to mention cost-prohibitive. I still want one though .

I bought the PC many many years ago. I would love a new Rupes and have no problem paying the $$ for one. I’m meticulous in maintaining the paint and do everything I can to minimize wash induced swirls. So for something I use once very 1-2 yrs...It’s not worth it for me when the PC still gets the job done. As the saying goes...a good craftsman never blames his tools .

Some of my tools for weekly washes

 

[N54TT]

This is kind of what I’m looking for. I know everyone has their snake oil they KNOW produces the best results, but I’m looking for more of “hey, if you use this level pad, a finishing polish, and don’t apply pressure then there is a VERY low chance you’ll have a million swirls now instead of one or two.” Or “DO NOT use anything more aggressive than medium cutting compound or you’re going to F up your paint unless you seriously know what you’re doing.”

I know the risk reward plays in... but I don’t need a huge reward. Just a bit more glow and maybe super fine swirl removal in 10% of the surfaces. So hopefully I can go very gentle and gain some improvement with very little chance of screwing if up, lol.

Speaking of corrections. I have two or three half dollars sized marks on the car that are a perfect circle and in the right light almost look like a dull residue after peeling off a sticker or something. I’ve been told those are areas that have been corrected by Tesla after the paint shop to sand down burrs or dirt or something that got on it during painting. I’m sure you’ve seen this before. I know prices are all over the place based on area, but what kind of ballpark do you think I should expect if/when I get those fixed. It’s about 3 spots on mainly flat panels. Are we talking $200 or so, $500 or so, or more because they’ll have to do a large area to blend or something?

This is what one of them looks like...

I had a couple of those circle holograms on my car as well. The same pc/menzerna/white/orange pad easily knocked those out as well.

If there’s one tip I can give is lighting lighting lighting. You need to have the right lighting to see what you’re doing is working or making it worse. You hear plenty of stories about people working on their paint. The next day they pull it out of the garage into the sun and are horrified of the results.

 

[acarney]

I bought the PC many many years ago. I would love a new Rupes and have no problem paying the $$ for one. I’m meticulous in maintaining the paint and do everything I can to minimize wash induced swirls. So for something I use once very 1-2 yrs...It’s not worth it for me when the PC still gets the job done. As the saying goes...a good craftsman never blames his tools .

Some of my tools for weekly washes

View attachment 532776

Oh I wish you were near me so I could become best friends and use that DI system! That’s the only thing I really hate about the wash, getting that water off quick enough that it doesn’t dry (it’s enjoyable washing in 90 degree weather, but you have minutes before it starts drying on the car!) but slow and gently enough that you aren’t scratching.

I’m debating some kind of blower... but I don’t like all the little “handheld” detailed style ones. I think they’re probably great for crevices but what about the whole car? Would an electric leaf blower work as long as I made sure there wasn’t any dust, dirt, or rock around the area first? It doesn’t seem like I need super intense wind if I have a sealer or coating which already improves sheeting of water...

 

[Uncle Paul]

I just squint a littls and my car looks great.

 

[acarney]

I bought the PC many many years ago. I would love a new Rupes and have no problem paying the $$ for one. I’m meticulous in maintaining the paint and do everything I can to minimize wash induced swirls. So for something I use once very 1-2 yrs...It’s not worth it for me when the PC still gets the job done. As the saying goes...a good craftsman never blames his tools .

Some of my tools for weekly washes

View attachment 532776

Ok, that DI system is more reasonable than I thought. I was thinking they were $700+ or something. That’s especially more reasonable if I factor in spending ~$70 or more on some kind of blower.

Question... can that DI system be used with a “low pressure” electric pressure washer? I have a 1,500 psi 1.2 gallon per minute pressure washer that might help me restrict how many gallons of that DI I would be using. With a 40 degree nozzle I seem to get enough coverage for a good rinse... but even a 10 minute rinse (which would be extremely thorough) would only use 12 gallons... which would be less than 5 minutes with their sprayer.

 

[trm2]

Just remember there is a huge variation of DA polishers out there. My first DA (porter Cable) has a pretty short throw - maybe 7mm whereas the beastly Rupes mentioned by Jason above has a 21mm throw. This makes a huge difference when it comes to the ability to correct (ie take out swirls). Throw is also not the whole equation. Torque of the motor, chemical used, and pad type all play a factor. Not saying the PC is not capable but it is a lot less effective all other things being equal - N54TT's pics show that a PC can do correction quite well. The Rupes is a bit overkill for most DIYers, not to mention cost-prohibitive. I still want one though .

You left out the single most important factor - technique. My favorite polisher is actually my Rupes iBrid Nano, pinpoint control with just a 3mm throw.

naturally I don’t do the whole car with that, a Flex for big areas, PC for medium the. The nano for small areas.

 

[jkoya]

Ok, that DI system is more reasonable than I thought. I was thinking they were $700+ or something. That’s especially more reasonable if I factor in spending ~$70 or more on some kind of blower.

I bought the same CR Spotless water system from Costco a few years ago and see it off and on in the warehouses. Costco gave an extra set of resin refills included in their warehouse price. You would need a nozzle to restrict flow to less than 2.5 gallons per minute.

I bought a MetroVac MasterBlaster air dryer with a 30 ft hose a couple years ago. It provides warm filtered air and it works fine, but it's loud, especially if it's used to dry the wheels. I wear ear protection when I use it..

 

[tlr1000]

I bought the PC many many years ago. I would love a new Rupes and have no problem paying the $$ for one. I’m meticulous in maintaining the paint and do everything I can to minimize wash induced swirls. So for something I use once very 1-2 yrs...It’s not worth it for me when the PC still gets the job done. As the saying goes...a good craftsman never blames his tools .

Some of my tools for weekly washes

View attachment 532776

Some nice tools there and by looking at your car it's not your first rodeo. I agree that a good craftsman is a good craftsman. Since you are quite experienced I'm just saying you'd probably at least be more efficient with a Rupes and you craft would even be better. But yes, for most people, myself included, the cost of the Rupes would not be justified based on the usage it would get.